Mom's "Harley" Saga begins...
-
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 594
- Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2016 10:19 pm
- Model of CNC Machine: Xcarve
- Location: Columbus Ohio
Re: Mom's "Harley" Saga begins...
Scott,
Im very interested in your use of the "butter" before cutting.
Where can I get more detailed information on this product and process?
Im very interested in your use of the "butter" before cutting.
Where can I get more detailed information on this product and process?
“I've learned so much from my mistakes, I'm thinking of making a few more”
- scottp55
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 4713
- Joined: Thu May 09, 2013 11:30 am
- Model of CNC Machine: ShopbotDesktop 5.5"Z/spindle/VCP11.5
- Location: Kennebunkport, Maine, US
Re: Mom's "Harley" Saga begins...
Jan,
It kind of evolved in stages....Here are some 4 yr old pics when first trying to get a sand free finish on small carvings using 50/50 thinned Tung Oil.
Pics are labeled as to what I was doing, as I made pics for a friend....I'll look for more later when I got into "Linwax Butter"(I don't think I had got the final formula down at that point). MOST of my 3D projects soon after that,I don't think I waited for oil to partially dry,and they cut as well....then after that came "Butter" I made for molten soaking buttons so they could take 4 delicate wash cyles in a machine without damage.....and one day decided to try the "Butter...
I'll look tomorrow, but maybe look at recent 3Ds?....I usually mention it. and sometimes add pics.
OH....HIGHLY suggest not cutting "Wet" with an oxidizing/drying oil with DC going!!!
Oxidizing wood chips with other wood chips with a good air flow could spontaneously COMBUST!!!!
Likewise..do NOT sweep and throw in the waste bin! IF wet enough they can be molded into excellent fire starters if not bundled together for a while....otherwise scatter outside or soak in water..or burn them. Just like oily rags and any oxidizing oil.
It kind of evolved in stages....Here are some 4 yr old pics when first trying to get a sand free finish on small carvings using 50/50 thinned Tung Oil.
Pics are labeled as to what I was doing, as I made pics for a friend....I'll look for more later when I got into "Linwax Butter"(I don't think I had got the final formula down at that point). MOST of my 3D projects soon after that,I don't think I waited for oil to partially dry,and they cut as well....then after that came "Butter" I made for molten soaking buttons so they could take 4 delicate wash cyles in a machine without damage.....and one day decided to try the "Butter...
I'll look tomorrow, but maybe look at recent 3Ds?....I usually mention it. and sometimes add pics.
OH....HIGHLY suggest not cutting "Wet" with an oxidizing/drying oil with DC going!!!
Oxidizing wood chips with other wood chips with a good air flow could spontaneously COMBUST!!!!
Likewise..do NOT sweep and throw in the waste bin! IF wet enough they can be molded into excellent fire starters if not bundled together for a while....otherwise scatter outside or soak in water..or burn them. Just like oily rags and any oxidizing oil.
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
- scottp55
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 4713
- Joined: Thu May 09, 2013 11:30 am
- Model of CNC Machine: ShopbotDesktop 5.5"Z/spindle/VCP11.5
- Location: Kennebunkport, Maine, US
Re: Mom's "Harley" Saga begins...
Feel like a dunce
Had that rough section of tire staring me right in the face....and then the spark plug wires were too thin(Most likely caused by that stiffest wax brush I have I now think),
SO ASSUMED bit/wood/spoilboard had moved .005" in -Y
While in shop this am, I changed preview quality to Highest...and then swiveled and zoomed Way in on the front tire staring me in the face at wheelchair height.....
Preview showed EXACTLY the actual cut that threw me! EXACTLY!! I just never zoomed in at high enough resolution at that strange angle before:(
Glad I didn't unclamp it....may try cleaning up the font after registering on the point of the star I can see best...and if font works...Pump panels/engine/fork boots
Amazing what getting 2 night of decent sleep does!
Also I was VERY pleased when I went out to shovel snow that a box of cut offs had come from Bravesoul
Spent half an hour checking the pieces, and kept my brain perking the rest of today on initial impressions for models
Joe..Your moniker should be Kindsoul !!! THANKS!
THIS time I won't cut unless I'm running on all cylinders....TINY stuff
scott
Had that rough section of tire staring me right in the face....and then the spark plug wires were too thin(Most likely caused by that stiffest wax brush I have I now think),
SO ASSUMED bit/wood/spoilboard had moved .005" in -Y
While in shop this am, I changed preview quality to Highest...and then swiveled and zoomed Way in on the front tire staring me in the face at wheelchair height.....
Preview showed EXACTLY the actual cut that threw me! EXACTLY!! I just never zoomed in at high enough resolution at that strange angle before:(
Glad I didn't unclamp it....may try cleaning up the font after registering on the point of the star I can see best...and if font works...Pump panels/engine/fork boots
Amazing what getting 2 night of decent sleep does!
Also I was VERY pleased when I went out to shovel snow that a box of cut offs had come from Bravesoul
Spent half an hour checking the pieces, and kept my brain perking the rest of today on initial impressions for models
Joe..Your moniker should be Kindsoul !!! THANKS!
THIS time I won't cut unless I'm running on all cylinders....TINY stuff
scott
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
-
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 594
- Joined: Wed Mar 27, 2013 4:16 pm
- Model of CNC Machine: CNC Shark Pro Plus
- Contact:
Re: Mom's "Harley" Saga begins...
Noticed that the other day on the tire. Is the tire cylindrical in the model or does it have that draft angle? Or is the angle from the TBN? But if you’re seeing it in the preview, it’s a fault in the model. Maybe could be fixed in Aspire. Guess you’ll sand that out.
BillK
https://www.facebook.com/CarvingsByKurtz
https://www.facebook.com/CarvingsByKurtz
- scottp55
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 4713
- Joined: Thu May 09, 2013 11:30 am
- Model of CNC Machine: ShopbotDesktop 5.5"Z/spindle/VCP11.5
- Location: Kennebunkport, Maine, US
Re: Mom's "Harley" Saga begins...
It's in the model Bill;
The greater side angle on the .25mmR TBN just can't get in to smooth it at 5%....and 30* Engraving won't touch it.
MAY be my first "Selected Boundary" touch up, as I can see clearly what's going on as it's closest to me.
IF I see tiny chips from it getting into the sidewall ridge of the tire....and then Nothing afterwards....I'll know I'm registered correctly.
Figure it's a good spot to test, as sanding is needed anyways.
Changed my VR cutting mode back to Default as such small areas. Letting shop warm up for an hour at 72F like it was my last cutting day....
PLANS for an early start went out the window when we had two power outages before sun came up for 2 hours total...threw heating shop off,
AND lost half hour of calculations on this computer
Waiting for another hour before trusting power is clear(roads are slick with new snow)...Have UPS with transfer time so no Blips, BUT only 45 minutes(with power cut to spindle) before I have to shut down. One more big Blip...and I'll start working on the box of cutoffs Bravesoul sent me(Jigged up in the field)
Be NICE to have Aspire, but $500 to go to full VCP10 from Shopbot Edition was it for this year...unless I get a commissioned piece again:)
scott
In the actual cut on my pic...I think I'm looking at the 7% stepover marks left by the .125" shank 1mmR TBN from the Rough Finishing toolpath.The greater side angle on the .25mmR TBN just can't get in to smooth it at 5%....and 30* Engraving won't touch it.
MAY be my first "Selected Boundary" touch up, as I can see clearly what's going on as it's closest to me.
IF I see tiny chips from it getting into the sidewall ridge of the tire....and then Nothing afterwards....I'll know I'm registered correctly.
Figure it's a good spot to test, as sanding is needed anyways.
Changed my VR cutting mode back to Default as such small areas. Letting shop warm up for an hour at 72F like it was my last cutting day....
PLANS for an early start went out the window when we had two power outages before sun came up for 2 hours total...threw heating shop off,
AND lost half hour of calculations on this computer
Waiting for another hour before trusting power is clear(roads are slick with new snow)...Have UPS with transfer time so no Blips, BUT only 45 minutes(with power cut to spindle) before I have to shut down. One more big Blip...and I'll start working on the box of cutoffs Bravesoul sent me(Jigged up in the field)
Be NICE to have Aspire, but $500 to go to full VCP10 from Shopbot Edition was it for this year...unless I get a commissioned piece again:)
scott
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
- scottp55
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 4713
- Joined: Thu May 09, 2013 11:30 am
- Model of CNC Machine: ShopbotDesktop 5.5"Z/spindle/VCP11.5
- Location: Kennebunkport, Maine, US
Re: Mom's "Harley" Saga begins...
Jan,
Can't really find anybody else doing wet cutting with a mix like mine.....I DO usually go into it a little on 3d posts in last 3 years.
One thing I've done lately is brush a light coating on with brush, and now I have a Master Heat Gun again, I'll hit it lightly till most mix is absorbed,then soft brush it so dry spots art covered again....mix is absorbed into wood as wood cools...then I'll put on a layer, which thickness kinda depends on how deep(usually .01-.015" pass), and how long it takes to cut so it doesn't dry out. I like a thick slurry..this cut was a hair dry.
Butter is only good for a VERY thin Allowance....does NOT quite reach .02" deep even if heat driven usually. IF .015" allowance or more, perhaps 50/50 thinned oil is better for penetration.
If I find any other documentation...I'll link it.
scott
Can't really find anybody else doing wet cutting with a mix like mine.....I DO usually go into it a little on 3d posts in last 3 years.
One thing I've done lately is brush a light coating on with brush, and now I have a Master Heat Gun again, I'll hit it lightly till most mix is absorbed,then soft brush it so dry spots art covered again....mix is absorbed into wood as wood cools...then I'll put on a layer, which thickness kinda depends on how deep(usually .01-.015" pass), and how long it takes to cut so it doesn't dry out. I like a thick slurry..this cut was a hair dry.
Butter is only good for a VERY thin Allowance....does NOT quite reach .02" deep even if heat driven usually. IF .015" allowance or more, perhaps 50/50 thinned oil is better for penetration.
If I find any other documentation...I'll link it.
scott
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
-
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 594
- Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2016 10:19 pm
- Model of CNC Machine: Xcarve
- Location: Columbus Ohio
Re: Mom's "Harley" Saga begins...
Scott,
I find you process very interesting and I want to try it myself.
Question though.
Doesn't the linseed oil take a long time to dry? (if at all)
Or do you use boiled linseed oil? (which will dry)
I find you process very interesting and I want to try it myself.
Question though.
Doesn't the linseed oil take a long time to dry? (if at all)
Or do you use boiled linseed oil? (which will dry)
“I've learned so much from my mistakes, I'm thinking of making a few more”
- scottp55
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 4713
- Joined: Thu May 09, 2013 11:30 am
- Model of CNC Machine: ShopbotDesktop 5.5"Z/spindle/VCP11.5
- Location: Kennebunkport, Maine, US
Re: Mom's "Harley" Saga begins...
Jan,
Been using;
https://www.earthpaint.net/zero-voc-non ... inish.html
For about 5 years...First 2 gallons could be coated again within a day if 65F+ and a fan was blowing on them...Last gallon(2018) I think they maybe didn't cook at such a high temp to get super-polymerized, as now takes 2 days between coats to dry IF all excess is taken off(Possible a bad batch sneaked through, but still have a quart left).
Polymerized Tung works just as well, but we found it skimmed over/gelled to quick with 3 people in shop using it...Earthpaint mix can last a shade over a year.
Maybe the Watco(?) Danish Oil mix that Bill K is experimenting with on his branches will work better?
We started with children's blocks, and then went into buttons...so it was good that we could say, and point to products we used....Green Market was big for us.
All I can say is it works for me
(And as I hand rub a lot, and don't use gloves applying it.....LIKE not having metallic dryers in my oil....AND probably the softest hands in town
scott
Been using;
https://www.earthpaint.net/zero-voc-non ... inish.html
For about 5 years...First 2 gallons could be coated again within a day if 65F+ and a fan was blowing on them...Last gallon(2018) I think they maybe didn't cook at such a high temp to get super-polymerized, as now takes 2 days between coats to dry IF all excess is taken off(Possible a bad batch sneaked through, but still have a quart left).
Polymerized Tung works just as well, but we found it skimmed over/gelled to quick with 3 people in shop using it...Earthpaint mix can last a shade over a year.
Maybe the Watco(?) Danish Oil mix that Bill K is experimenting with on his branches will work better?
We started with children's blocks, and then went into buttons...so it was good that we could say, and point to products we used....Green Market was big for us.
All I can say is it works for me
(And as I hand rub a lot, and don't use gloves applying it.....LIKE not having metallic dryers in my oil....AND probably the softest hands in town
scott
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
-
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 594
- Joined: Wed Mar 27, 2013 4:16 pm
- Model of CNC Machine: CNC Shark Pro Plus
- Contact:
Re: Mom's "Harley" Saga begins...
Saw this. I’ve been actually using Tried & True Danish Oil. Really like it on maple and makes a nice Linwax. Here’s a screen shot also. Safe for skin, food, no heavy metals.scottp55 wrote:
Maybe the Watco(?) Danish Oil mix that Bill K is experimenting with on his branches will work better?
scott
Of course I also eat several bowls of organic golden flax seeds for breakfast a few times a week, so I probably have some Linseed oil, processed at 98.6°F, coming out of my pores.
BillK
https://www.facebook.com/CarvingsByKurtz
https://www.facebook.com/CarvingsByKurtz
- scottp55
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 4713
- Joined: Thu May 09, 2013 11:30 am
- Model of CNC Machine: ShopbotDesktop 5.5"Z/spindle/VCP11.5
- Location: Kennebunkport, Maine, US
Re: Mom's "Harley" Saga begins...
Looks like we're using virtually the same Linseed Bill...probably only difference is supplier/heat/and length of cooking.
Mine's the viscosity of Maple syrup(the real stuff) that's slightly warmed.
Polymerized is the true Boiled Linseed:) Haven't used Japan Dryer since I tried polymerized/super Polymerized !
DID do testing all day yesterday with the Onsrud 30* Engraving bit with .005" flat.
First test was to match up settings between drawing...and the actual NOW placement of a fender bolt on front wheel....at 10X it Looked perfect still! Ran a .5X.3 inch cut on the edge of front tire and got No chips as expected.
Then tested the ends of the lines on sign on the bottom, and started sneaking up on Z tweak....got within .002" of what it would have been If i had just homed my machine off limit switches, and Z-Zeroed off my touch plate.
Then made an oval boundary vector for the sign...watching like a Hawk!
I did it from bottom to top, so the first letter was the "F"....had to Nudge my Y-Zero -.007"(that F is slightly skinny on the left before I got it right)...
Than had to Nudge X-axis -.002"....and then I let it cut 6 hours....with barely a teaspoon of shaving to show for it. It already had equivalent of 3 coats of oil, so only applied a VERY thin coat with a toothbrush so I could see the cut/shavings.
I left machine running overnight so position would be the same this am....and toolpathed the engine while I got caffeinated.
THEN I chickened out and made a .2X.5" oval centered on the lower engine casing ridges and cut that with Z-Zero tweaked up .005"....
must have been off, as there should have been no sawdust(and there was:(....it skimmed the high spots
SOo......Lesson learned is DON'T leave on machine for 2-3 days before going for the super fine details!
Kinda like what Paul said about VCarved Inlays...."try to get everything done and glued in 1 day".
Thought I could get as good a result as the 2 Finish Finish paths I did on Owl3 for my step-mom, but that entire carve was 6 hours all in the same day.
Will STILL make a great present for my Uncle....AND I learned a LOT! So I'll be finishing this one up....maybe some testing of machine tweaks(VRsettings Shopbot) that I haven't tried yet...
AND Mom's bigger piece of Birdseye has a pretty good crack in it.....she has a Nat Franklin "Tree of Life" also...so I think I'll make that a deeper Zank VInlay. Thanks for comments and listening to my Yatter!
Mine's the viscosity of Maple syrup(the real stuff) that's slightly warmed.
Polymerized is the true Boiled Linseed:) Haven't used Japan Dryer since I tried polymerized/super Polymerized !
DID do testing all day yesterday with the Onsrud 30* Engraving bit with .005" flat.
First test was to match up settings between drawing...and the actual NOW placement of a fender bolt on front wheel....at 10X it Looked perfect still! Ran a .5X.3 inch cut on the edge of front tire and got No chips as expected.
Then tested the ends of the lines on sign on the bottom, and started sneaking up on Z tweak....got within .002" of what it would have been If i had just homed my machine off limit switches, and Z-Zeroed off my touch plate.
Then made an oval boundary vector for the sign...watching like a Hawk!
I did it from bottom to top, so the first letter was the "F"....had to Nudge my Y-Zero -.007"(that F is slightly skinny on the left before I got it right)...
Than had to Nudge X-axis -.002"....and then I let it cut 6 hours....with barely a teaspoon of shaving to show for it. It already had equivalent of 3 coats of oil, so only applied a VERY thin coat with a toothbrush so I could see the cut/shavings.
I left machine running overnight so position would be the same this am....and toolpathed the engine while I got caffeinated.
THEN I chickened out and made a .2X.5" oval centered on the lower engine casing ridges and cut that with Z-Zero tweaked up .005"....
must have been off, as there should have been no sawdust(and there was:(....it skimmed the high spots
SOo......Lesson learned is DON'T leave on machine for 2-3 days before going for the super fine details!
Kinda like what Paul said about VCarved Inlays...."try to get everything done and glued in 1 day".
Thought I could get as good a result as the 2 Finish Finish paths I did on Owl3 for my step-mom, but that entire carve was 6 hours all in the same day.
Will STILL make a great present for my Uncle....AND I learned a LOT! So I'll be finishing this one up....maybe some testing of machine tweaks(VRsettings Shopbot) that I haven't tried yet...
AND Mom's bigger piece of Birdseye has a pretty good crack in it.....she has a Nat Franklin "Tree of Life" also...so I think I'll make that a deeper Zank VInlay. Thanks for comments and listening to my Yatter!
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
- scotttarnor
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 941
- Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2019 11:40 pm
- Model of CNC Machine: Piranha XL , Shark HD520
- Location: La Crosse WI
- scottp55
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 4713
- Joined: Thu May 09, 2013 11:30 am
- Model of CNC Machine: ShopbotDesktop 5.5"Z/spindle/VCP11.5
- Location: Kennebunkport, Maine, US
Re: Mom's "Harley" Saga begins...
Thanks Scott!
But if I'd had Boundary Vectors all set up and toolpathed for the 3* Engraving bit with .005" flat(and If my brain hadn't been burnt from all the testing and long cut)...
I could have chanced it and gotten more detail on the sign font/engine/and the pump panel....But I rested/programmed/calculated and didn't do it for 2 days
JUST finished sanding the perimeter...and if you notice there's a slight ridge on left side from .25mmTBN not cutting over the edge...PITA....
I'll have to avoid that on Mom's.
On the model...the Pump Panel has the word "Premium".....only .04" font height, but I'd LOVE to get that detail Maybe on Mom's.....5.375" high on this one, and Mom's is 8.25".......It's Possible!
On Mom's...she has the same Nat Franklin "Tree of Life", BUT she also has 2 wood cracks.
The Tree will be bigger, so next couple days will be getting her much longer inscription looking good...making Tree as large as looks good.... then trying some deeper test cuts in Zank VInlay with a 30 degree(Only ever used a 60* Engraving with .005" flat)...OR maybe a regular Inlay is possible(?)
Got 2 spots in Master Bath on Big Teak that were mortised out to hide screws...and the Ebony pieces on 2 went AWOL....so I'll make them good enough to use
In other words...I get to Play for a few days
On Mom's...playing with the idea of having the VInlay proud about 1/8"....but have to play with keeping the model side parallel when jigged
Off to find the wood pieces and Play!
But if I'd had Boundary Vectors all set up and toolpathed for the 3* Engraving bit with .005" flat(and If my brain hadn't been burnt from all the testing and long cut)...
I could have chanced it and gotten more detail on the sign font/engine/and the pump panel....But I rested/programmed/calculated and didn't do it for 2 days
JUST finished sanding the perimeter...and if you notice there's a slight ridge on left side from .25mmTBN not cutting over the edge...PITA....
I'll have to avoid that on Mom's.
On the model...the Pump Panel has the word "Premium".....only .04" font height, but I'd LOVE to get that detail Maybe on Mom's.....5.375" high on this one, and Mom's is 8.25".......It's Possible!
On Mom's...she has the same Nat Franklin "Tree of Life", BUT she also has 2 wood cracks.
The Tree will be bigger, so next couple days will be getting her much longer inscription looking good...making Tree as large as looks good.... then trying some deeper test cuts in Zank VInlay with a 30 degree(Only ever used a 60* Engraving with .005" flat)...OR maybe a regular Inlay is possible(?)
Got 2 spots in Master Bath on Big Teak that were mortised out to hide screws...and the Ebony pieces on 2 went AWOL....so I'll make them good enough to use
In other words...I get to Play for a few days
On Mom's...playing with the idea of having the VInlay proud about 1/8"....but have to play with keeping the model side parallel when jigged
Off to find the wood pieces and Play!
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
- scotttarnor
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 941
- Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2019 11:40 pm
- Model of CNC Machine: Piranha XL , Shark HD520
- Location: La Crosse WI
Re: Mom's "Harley" Saga begins...
Question for you Scott, I have Vcarve Desktop it seems I do not have the ability to edit 3D vectors, Can you do that with Vcarve Pro? Is that how you are able to focus on certain sections like the engine casing and the pump lettering ? Or do you do it by adding a vector boundary like you explained Friday ? "Then made an oval boundary vector for the sign...watching like a Hawk!
I did it from bottom to top, so the first letter was the "F"....had to Nudge my Y-Zero -.007"(that F is slightly skinny on the left before I got it right)..."
do I understand correctly you are going to inlay the "tree of life " ?
I did it from bottom to top, so the first letter was the "F"....had to Nudge my Y-Zero -.007"(that F is slightly skinny on the left before I got it right)..."
do I understand correctly you are going to inlay the "tree of life " ?
Scott T
@scottscnc
@scottscnc
- scottp55
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 4713
- Joined: Thu May 09, 2013 11:30 am
- Model of CNC Machine: ShopbotDesktop 5.5"Z/spindle/VCP11.5
- Location: Kennebunkport, Maine, US
Re: Mom's "Harley" Saga begins...
No Scott......In VCP we can't actually Modify....Scale/Tilt.Fade/Model Height/ etc. , but we can't actually go in and do things like add Draft or actually change the model.
before I got around to it
Mom's Tree will be Zank VInlayed most likely.....had to do all the fonts approximately to see how big I can make it....looks like 2.5" R will be it...Thinking of stretching it horizontal a bit though to cover more area and maybe get a deeper Inlay.
Turns out this little one will make it up to my Aunt's and Uncle's celebration of his birthday a couple days late(Valentine's Day was his birthday).
Glad I sanded to 600G and gave it a coat of Linwax today!
Be good to get a hands on opinion from a bunch of people:)
scott
We can do a good imitation of Rest Machining though by drawing a vector around an area, and the creating a separate toolpath with a smaller bit for more detail.
Only reason I had to putz around with moving my Axiz Zeroes around, was it was clamped with a cam clamp against a fence for 2 days of different conditions,before I got around to it
Mom's Tree will be Zank VInlayed most likely.....had to do all the fonts approximately to see how big I can make it....looks like 2.5" R will be it...Thinking of stretching it horizontal a bit though to cover more area and maybe get a deeper Inlay.
Turns out this little one will make it up to my Aunt's and Uncle's celebration of his birthday a couple days late(Valentine's Day was his birthday).
Glad I sanded to 600G and gave it a coat of Linwax today!
Be good to get a hands on opinion from a bunch of people:)
scott
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.