Oak firewood owl3

[scottp55]

Seeing as my Owl04 project had more holes in his head than me.....Kinda rushed another White Oak Owl for my Step-Mom's birthday on the 17'th (and for oak sawdust:).
Another piece of White Oak firewood that had a "Bump" in it I chose 3 yrs ago, but Bump was a branch inclusion that I could easily push out of the knothole when machined, and it was splintered to heck by the log-splitter on the back side, and has a big cavity on the backside, and machined so thin, I was wondering what the heck I would ever do with it.

Made a 2X4" boundary pocket to place the model hopefully in solid wood;

Wood thickness sloped down quite a bit to the right.
Tried a brand new Kyocera .25" downcut at (IPS) 2,2,10K , BUT just quickly glanced at the tip, and QUICKLY found out it was NOT a Plunge tip!!!
Inspect your new bits, and place tip on a steel to make Sure what tip it is! This one now has a Note that it is NOT for plunging.

SOo...skipped the Roughing pass, and made a Rough Finish Toolpath with a .25"shank 1mm TBN at 8% stepover, Z-Zeroed to spoilboard(No other real way for me with this kind of stuff).
Then Raised my Z-Zero .2" (first .25" of log is punky), and ran a few lines, lowered Z-Zero .1" and ran a few lines, repeat, then ran the whole 59 minute pass.
Deepest part of cut was .45", but it was only cutting the stepover now;

It resulted in still needing another .2" to even have top of model in the punk. So did the Z-Zero lowering in .1" increments/cut routine, and ran the .2" pass;

Brushed it off, added some Linseed/beeswax mix and brushed that in....waited 30 minutes and brushed it off;

WISH I had only taken a .15" pass, as that punk wood had several coats of linseed/wax driven in with heat gun, and Owl punk layer doesn't mark with a thumbnail.
I MIGHT have wound up with an Owl that looked like chocolate on the solid wood(tow of Step-Mom's favorite things!)
BUT every other day I can only cut till roughly Noon, so I was Rushing

Did a calculation for a .25mm TBN, and calculating a toolpath for the .25" Onsrud 30* Engraving bit with a .005" flat now.
Should be done by now....out to cut a Finish Finish?
Been looking at it and wondering IF one more light pass with the 1mm TBN will give me some more variety in color of face and feathers....sun is up now so one more inspection.
I can cut all day today:)
scott

[scottp55]

.02" Finish Pass with the .25mm TBN over the whole thing done(6.5 hours at 1.5 IPS in all 3 axis) .....NO idea where that line came from:(
Made a Boundary vector just for the Owl himself, and at the same height, ran an Onsrud 30 degree Engraving bit with .005" flat to define the details.
Worried the whole 2.5 hours that the Linseed soaked dark brown punk layer wouldn't take the detail of the engraving bit
(of course I couldn't see it until end of cut because of the slurry)

Color bands came out OK.

Will think about the final shape tonight and after coffee tomorrow. Probably an arch with an inch between bottom of arch and the TBN cut,scroll saw at a 45*,and then shape in a freehand taper on the stationary belt sander(kinda like the top of the Salvaged Wolves I did).

He needs something to rest his feet on...thinking quartz/tourmaline/amethyst/citrine crystals embedded(?).
Have to take off machine and look at it...maybe Yowah Opal with mainly Ironstone would blend better.
CNC work is pretty much done though.
scott

[highpockets]

Scott, I'm constantly amazed at what you create out of "fire wood".

Great job and creativity.

Thanks for sharing....

[scottp55]

Thanks John!!
Darn glad I e-mailed thanks, I thought I'd be done in days....and could respond then with pics...so much for that thought
Decided to keep front all natural curve, so set stationary belt sander to it's steepest angle, and beveled it all the way to bark for natural front.

Punk layer that added so much contrast to Owl finished different than almost anything I've ever done....kept soaking up coat after coat!
Finally the rest of the wood looked good...and I had to go and apply umpteen more layers of Linseed/Beeswax butter with a toothbrush on Owl only!
Luckily step-mom said "Do it right".

For him to perch on, you can see in background all kinds of crystal,gems,and minerals...nothing looked quite right:(

THEN we had a 50F downpour day that melted all snow in driveway, and 2 days later a hard freeze...so wheelchair got me outside...
I had figured if firewood was White Oak, then White Oak twig or branch piece would blend, so managed to cut some:)
I had a little piece of Oak that almost looks like rocky ground, and found a twig that matched his feet.
Twig not cut to size, but you can get the idea;

ALL set to trim twig to size, and file a hole in the "Rock" and glue and clamp...when Owl fell off my lap onto concrete floor
Small fracture crack on base...thin CA with crack pressed open...clamped..and then a good portion of a couple hours to cabinet scrape, and sand to 600G...
And now finishing the base again so it blends:(
Here's how he stands;

Turned from a rush job into a Project:)
Thanks again for the comment!!
slow scott

[highpockets]

I like it Scott!!! Great ad...

Sounds like one of my "snowballs"

[rtibbs]

Nice touch with the twig (branch)

Always a pleasure to see your work Scott

Rom

[scottp55]

Thanks guys!

I do like it a lot more than my first ideas.
Yep John...I DO seem to specialize in "Projects"

[WNC_Ed]

Scott, Wow!
Awesomely fantastic project!
Congrats!!!

[scotttarnor]

Scott, I love the creativity of adding the stick!
I have a question you state "Inspect your new bits, and place tip on a steel to make Sure what tip it is!", I am new to CNCing could you explain what you mean?
Thank You

[scottp55]

Thanks Ed and Scott...much appreciated!
Let's hope she likes it!

Scott,
IF I had stuck the end of the Kyocera .25" down endmill on the flat steel of my square....I would have noticed light under the bit was uniform for full width of bit.
Generally speaking, that would tell me it was probably an FEM (Flat/Full cut End Mill) which needs a Ramp in the cut if you don't want to burn it up.

Plunge tip, the light in center increases towards the center of bit generally("Swallow Tails" by quite a bit), and then check to make sure cutter doesn't have a flat area in the center with no cutters.

The FEM type I had stuck in was great..right up until it hit Owl....it Plunged when it reached the drop off at other side of Owl profile....
bit was hot to touch even though I immediately hit a Spacebar Stop (Shopbot Pause).

Adrian explained it concisely here;
http://forum.vectric.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=28339
Unfortunately on this new computer the link didn't show text on Steve's excellent guide(and this computer doesn't have the full .pdf)

FEMs are GREAT for smooth pocket bottoms,and you can see pic here;
https://www.centuriontools.com/collecti ... wnshear145

And their Plunge geometry here;
https://www.centuriontools.com/collecti ... wnshear145

This is just one example of a manufacturer's geometry for a 2 Flute Downshear. Bit geometry can vary quite widely though.
scott

[scotttarnor]

Thank You Scott, I have down loaded the PDF from the link.

[scottp55]

Boy! Holding a twig up for concept, is a LOT easier than actually snipping twig exactly, and filing an exact notch in the bottom piece of punk.....
And THEN getting it Gooped and clamped in the right position !!!

Write the inscription for step-mom tomorrow on the back...and then find someone to drive it to Vermont.
Hoping she likes it even though it's 2 weeks after her Birthday.

Kinda like how it came out though.
scott

[rtibbs]

Very nice Scott.

Came out GREAT

[Savannahdan]

Awesome, Scott. I woke up to the owls calling. Too bad it was dark. They help to keep our squirrel population down. Anyway, love your project.

[highpockets]

That turned out awesome!!! The owl is great, but the branch and stone makes it... Nice snowball