Corian jig

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Xxray
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Corian jig

Post by Xxray »

Not Aspire in particular of course, there is no general machining section.

Rigged this thing up and it works great. Not everyone has spare corian laying around to do something like this, I did and could not be happier.
It has 2 strips of permanently attached .5 plexi on one side and the bottom which lets any workpiece square right in. The top piece adjusts as necessary to accommodate different size projects. The last edge I secure by simply toenailing in a screw to the edge.
I used a chink of .75 mdf for this purpose for quite a while [3rd pic], worked fine and in fact I have cut 100's of things on it, including all of the SOA wood carvings I have posted lately. Problem with that is the screw holes that hold it to the spoilboard eventually fuzz up and you get some wobble and have to make new screw holes.

So for the corain I was determined to find a permanent solution, and that solution was to use threaded screw inserts for the jig and the spoilboard. Got them at Woodcraft and these things are little gems. I drilled in slightly undersized holes in the corian ,,, Tried screwing them in and almost busted the head on an insert. Unlike mdf or wood there is no give at all in corian so it would not self thread. Had to be super tight through else you'd have some wobble.
So I drilled out the undersize holes with a tapping bit, worked perfect. Then I marked corresponding holes in the spoilboard and those I drilled out undersized and the inserts threaded right in.
So now I am able to screw it down the the exact same position every time and secure just about any sized workpiece [the board is about 17x20", which will accommodate the vast majority of my projects]. If I have a certain size that I do alot, say 10x10", I'll perfectly center it then save it as a home position. So in the future I can do that size with everything set up in a minute.

I realize that there are much better hold down methods available to many, but those still screwing down projects directly into the spoilboard may want to look into making something like this, makes life a whole lot easier and also increases precision and productivity [you can tell from the pic that I have done my fair share of screwing direct to the spoilboard]. And of course if [when] I overcut something, no damage to the bit as corian machines just fine.
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IMG_0711.JPG
IMG_0713.JPG
IMG_0712.JPG
Doug

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scottp55
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Re: Corian jig

Post by scottp55 »

Agree with you Xxray!
Never so happy as the day I lost having to drill/countersink/bore holes, deal with "dimples",stripped screwholes, and stopped making precision/custom made screw heads, and throwing chipped carbide away :D
Lovely having a fixed/known position and simply slapping a workpiece in.
For MDF I've had very good luck with this combo of inserts(zinc and you can hit/drill them without damaging bit---ask how I know), and these low profile Allen bolts(no washers needed).
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KSZ13G/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

https://www.fastenal.com/products?searc ... Bolts%22|~
MUCH faster and more accurate.
(think it's time to surface your spoilboard there D? :D :D )
scott
"Go not where the path may lead;
Go instead where there is no path, and leave a Trail"
RWE

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Xxray
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Re: Corian jig

Post by Xxray »

Yeah, I thought it would be nice to replace the board, surface and paint it, then install my new inserts - Kept it in the realm of thought though, sounded like too much of a project.
Will have to be done eventually, is surprisingly flat as violated as it is. If I do it before winter I'll be happy.
Doug

glenninvb
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Re: Corian jig

Post by glenninvb »

Scott,
If you ever get that vacuum table built you'll wonder why you didn't sooner.

Xxray,
As much acrylic as you do, you would love a small vac. table
Surfaced flat.... sit the piece on there and hit the switch!

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scottp55
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Re: Corian jig

Post by scottp55 »

Yep Xxray, To darn fussy with my "Altar" of a spoilboard because if I cut .004" deeper through the carpet tape I CRINGE and it takes me 3-4 times longer to get tape off 30-60 buttons:)

Gimme a break Glenn! :)
Only got pump fired up for first time last week and picked up smaller OD hose and the fittings Tuesday :D
(You know me...I'll change it into a project:)
"Go not where the path may lead;
Go instead where there is no path, and leave a Trail"
RWE

Tundraman
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Re: Corian jig

Post by Tundraman »

Xxray,
I think it's a great idea. As long as everything works well, how it looks is secondary. The end product is what matters and seeing many of your results (SOA's, etc) looks like you have it pretty well dialed in.
Thanks for sharing,
Scott

dldecker
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Re: Corian jig

Post by dldecker »

I use #5 brass inserts which are 1/4. In wood they go in with a tap in a .25 hole.

in corian with a 1/4 inch hole they won't go in no matter how hard you tap them.
A .255 hole is real snug and a .26 hole they slip in with a real lite tap.

as you said corian does not have any give and will chip if you try to force it.
Dana Decker
Aspire 8 something
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Xxray
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Re: Corian jig

Post by Xxray »

Yeah I've wanted to try some of those vacuum pucks for awhile, matter of time.
Can't quite wrap my head around the whole concept, but 1st step to enlightenment would be getting the gear.
Doug

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scottp55
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Re: Corian jig

Post by scottp55 »

Think it would be perfect for you Xxray as you do so much plexi and it would pull it Perfectly flat(especially if a Corian or similar material base) and even better for your litho's(provided you don't cut through:) as flatness is so important for your details.
"Go not where the path may lead;
Go instead where there is no path, and leave a Trail"
RWE

glenninvb
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Re: Corian jig

Post by glenninvb »

Xxray,

I think a vacuum table the size of your largest average (or is it average largest?) acrylic would be much more useful than pucks.
Mine is 18x18 and cost about $300 with new pump (ebay) hose and gasket cord.

1" starboard 30-$35 sq.ft Any HDPE would work
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