Beer Taps

An area to upload images of pieces cut using VCarve Pro
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wb9tpg
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Beer Taps

Post by wb9tpg »

Delivered the first part of this order to my very happy customer yesterday. 5/4 QS WO finished with General Finished Seal-A-Cell & Arm-R-Seal. Accent is Liquidtex Carbon Black Acrylic. Design done in Vcarve Pro.

24 more to do to finish their first order which must be carved with different designs on both sides.
IMG_1837.4.jpg
Gary Mitchell
Kentucky, USA

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jfederer
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Re: Beer Taps

Post by jfederer »

Nice! Did you pre-finish before cutting then do the highlights, or mask the surface for the highlights after cutting ? Or sand down and finish after highlighting?

I've always had a bleeding problem when doing backfill in the cuts.
Joe Federer

www.fabrikisto.com incl. Tailmaker software
www.federer.ca

wb9tpg
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Re: Beer Taps

Post by wb9tpg »

I finished with a moderate coat of Seal-A-Cell to both sides before cutting anything. I did not try to fill the grain as the customer liked the paint look in the grain they saw on a prototype. Then I cut and applied another coat of Seal-A-Cell to everything. Then I sprayed the carbon black paint and wiped if off (filling the grain somewhat). I manually spread some on the sides using the rag I used to wipe so I'd get an even tint and filling of the grain. Then 2 more coats of Arm-R-Seal then a coat of Wax as final finish.
Gary Mitchell
Kentucky, USA

jay pieper
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Re: Beer Taps

Post by jay pieper »

Very nice job on the beer taps. Just wondering if you used two sided machining to
create the taps or is everything done from the top side.

wb9tpg
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Re: Beer Taps

Post by wb9tpg »

The first batch didn't have the back side cut even though the tool paths were ready. This is because the wall behind them is the only thing the back side will ever see.

The second batch will have both sides cut as some breweries they sell beer to have the taps set where their end-customer can see the back side. The back side contains a VBC logo and a bigger version of their name.

The back side would normally be cut first with the alignment holes - it has a lot of margin between the design and the edge since the back side gets a round-over to make it feel better on your hand. That is done on the router table in a few seconds.

When I flip it to the top side I continue the V-bit and then switch to the End-Mill to cut it out. The pattern is closer to the edge on the top so this way I guarantee registration between those patterns. The top edge has a small chamfer applied with the V-bit and is later "broken" by hand with a sanding block.

I use an Amana Tool 51692 bit for both Drilling the Alignment Holes and for the V-Carving. That way I do one bit for all that and only switch bits to cut it out of the blank. Less bit changes = faster operations. This is a great bit with 4 flutes and you can push is faster than a 2 or 3 flute bit. I highly recommend it.
Gary Mitchell
Kentucky, USA

jay pieper
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Re: Beer Taps

Post by jay pieper »

I do a lot of two sided machining, and have created several boards with dowel alignment
for various projects that need to machined on both sides. Seems to work very well with
keeping it centered on both front and back. With all the craft beers everywhere, I would
assume you will be a very busy man. thank you for posting and clearing up my questions
Look forward to seeing your next batch of beer taps and I am sure new ideas.

Holzarbeiter
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Re: Beer Taps

Post by Holzarbeiter »

Beautifully machined and finished! I get thirsty just looking at them.
Joe

I have a chip on my shoulder....several more in my hair and lots more all over my shop floor.

MTSO
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Re: Beer Taps

Post by MTSO »

Really nice man great detail with the vcarving.

regards

Brian

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Mark's Wood Chips
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Re: Beer Taps

Post by Mark's Wood Chips »

Nice work! How are the handles attached to the faucet stems? Did you use an insert or simply tap the holes?

Mark

wb9tpg
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Re: Beer Taps

Post by wb9tpg »

I used 3/8-16 threaded inserted which is common for the US. Metric countries use something else.

I made a jig to drill the 33/64" hole straight and another jig to thread the insert straight. The customer did not reorder from his last supplier because he could not get that right. I even used a steel bushing to guide the drill in the jig (expensive sucker but it works).
Gary Mitchell
Kentucky, USA

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