vase

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scottp55
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Re: vase

Post by scottp55 »

I've been meaning to try the boundary and then "machine selected vectors", but keep deciding on projects that have fine detail right to the borders
(or lack thereof like the topo's :)
Has anybody tried it in VCP8?
Martin's "Rose Vase" would be a perfect example.
Martin, did you say you had access to Pear wood?
Think a slow growing fruitwood would be excellent for 3D?
Got 70 yr old apple trees across the beaver pond I have still convince some sucker to slog and cut some large branches for me:)
Must be putting your Z to the limits on that machine?
Your horrible Yank friend,
scott
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martin54
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Re: vase

Post by martin54 »

Scott I am going to have a go at doing just that, watched the efficient 3d machining tutorials again this afternoon just to make sure I had it all clear in my head :lol: :lol:

It won't be a fair comparison on time however because I am also going to have a go at machining the rose with an engraving bit as I haven't tried that yet :lol:
Not decided what size bit to use yet though, the actual depth of the model must be more of a factor when using an engraving bit though as they are generally quite sort bits so wouldn't compare with a tbn bit. This model sits at the material surface & is only a couple of mm so won't be a problem.

Pear wood, no never mentioned that, most of my wood comes from a local sawmill who operate a sustainability policy which would be a good selling point if I ever get round to making stuff to sell :lol: :lol:
There are a few woods that the sawmill sell that machine quite well, hornbeam, lime, sweet chestnut & yew have given me good results when ever I have machined them, oak has given me good results most of the time but on occasions I have had far to many fuzzies but not figured out why. Elm is a bit hit & miss, but I don't know if that is maybe down to how badly the tree was infected with Dutch elm disease, all the elm they sell comes from trees that have been damaged by it, they won't fell or buy elm from a good uninfected tree. Larch can machine very well but the problem with it is that you get pockets of sap which completely mess things up :lol: :lol: it generally shows in the boards at the sawmill so I look out for it if I am buying larch to cut on the machine. They also sell sycamore, ash & beech but I haven't really worked with those much yet.
I have got some pear wood veneer that came in a mixed bundle I bought, still haven't really got round to doing anything with the veneer yet though :lol: :lol:

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scottp55
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Re: vase

Post by scottp55 »

Yep, CEL on .25"shank Onsrud 30 degree engraving is about .5" and usually change model to about .48" depth.
In cut 3D I used to have to LIE like Heck to simulate an engraving bit with so-so results, but now VCP8 accepts them and you can get an accurate view if info is entered correctly.
The 1/8"engraving bits had a shade to much deflection if pushed fast, and destroyed some very fine detail by running over it a fraction,and "blurring it".
Good luck!
scott
Must have been Lime I was thinking of, which I've never seen or cut.
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martin54
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Re: vase

Post by martin54 »

This is what the sawmill I get my wood from has to say about Lime :lol:

Lime wood is an even pale yellow colour, which gradually darkens over time. It also has a beautiful natural lustre and is soft and light in weight. Most lime wood sold by Scottish Wood goes for furniture production and carving.

"Tree with a thousand uses" - Lime is native to Britain, and in Roman times was know as the "tree with a thousand uses" from household and agricultural implements to shields. Traditionally the underbark or bast was soaked in water and beaten to produce a coarse fibre to make strong rope, fish nets and rough clothing. It also makes good quality charcoal and is said to be excellent for gunpowder.

Excellent carving properties- Lime has several properties that make it ideal for shallow chip carving and it was especially favoured for delicate work by master woodcarvers like Grinling Gibbons. Seasoned lime is very stable and is soft enough to be carved and yet firm enough to hold a precisely cut surface well. Its stable properties have also made it the favourite wood for the construction of piano boards and keys and other parts of musical instruments.

Furniture - Lime stains well, has good bending properties and is often used for making indoor furniture

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scottp55
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Re: vase

Post by scottp55 »

Sounds Nice Martin:)
Thanks.
scott
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Re: vase

Post by mtylerfl »

martin54 wrote:I cut the Coral Inlay vase project today but something seems to have gone very seriously wrong, haven't quite got it figured out yet but I think I have narrowed it down to one of four possibilities
That's cute, Martin! :D I might have to make a miniature version myself!
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martin54
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Re: vase

Post by martin54 »

mtylerfl wrote:
martin54 wrote:I cut the Coral Inlay vase project today but something seems to have gone very seriously wrong, haven't quite got it figured out yet but I think I have narrowed it down to one of four possibilities
That's cute, Martin! :D I might have to make a miniature version myself!
One of my daughters said it was cute :lol: :lol:

This is just 2 pieces so doesn't have the 2 middle sections the original had, I just pocketed out the back of each piece so when glued together the middle will be hollow :lol: :lol:

The rose model doesn't have as much detail as I would have liked, didn't spend as long looking at the preview as I should have done :oops: if I had taken a bit more care I would have stepped down to a 1mm ball nose for the finish rather than the 1.5mm that I used. Will cut this again but this time I am going to have a go at Scott's method using an engraving bit rather than a ball nose bit for the finishing cut. The rose model depth is only about 2mm so an engraving bit shouldn't have any problems.

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