Dresser Box

An area to upload images of pieces cut using VCarve Pro
glenninvb
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Dresser Box

Post by glenninvb »

One more little box.. with cherry piano hinge, 1-1/2" deep inside
Now I need to order some 1/16" tapered ball nose bits for better detail if I'm going to play with small 3D models
Attachments
DSCF2443.JPG
DSCF2445.JPG

Bob Reda
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Re: Dresser Box

Post by Bob Reda »

very nice!

Bob

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Bob Jr
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Re: Dresser Box

Post by Bob Jr »

I like that hinge!
Bob
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rsetina
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Re: Dresser Box

Post by rsetina »

I like the hinge too! The box is beautiful and the hinge really draws your attention. I'm guessing it was cut as separate pieces. I'm impressed.
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subsea
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Re: Dresser Box

Post by subsea »

Cool box - I like it and a great hinge.
- Bill

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mikeacg
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Re: Dresser Box

Post by mikeacg »

Love the box! Especially like that hinge! How is it attached?

Mike

glenninvb
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Re: Dresser Box

Post by glenninvb »

Thanks Guys,

Here is .CRV for hinge that utilizes material better the last one I posted. *Fit as many as you wish. (tool-paths for (1) I used)
Material 6x6x.5, orient grain with length, 1/8" downcut bit ( use shallow peck passes or change to upcut or drill bit). XY datum=center
Cuts through material .020

This hinge fits 1/2" thick top (top edge of hinge flush with top edge of top)
To assemble, slide all leaf pcs. on 1/8" steel pin (long drill bit works good) and attach the two end leafs (to top first) with medium gel CA adhesive, once the ends are attached the rest are easy. I use the med. gel CA and hold down 30 sec.
Rough up dense wood like hard maple.
Remove steel pin and replace with 1/8"sanded bamboo skewer. These hinges are surprisingly strong but I would use them on non-critical application only and not a heavy or overhead item for safety.
Attachments
New.crv hinge.crv
(136 KiB) Downloaded 1315 times

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gordread
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Re: Dresser Box

Post by gordread »

Thank you for the hinge, I'm going to try it out.

Gordon

glenninvb
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Re: Dresser Box

Post by glenninvb »

gordread,

And anyone, if you use my .CRV
You really should use up-cut bit for peck drilling hole (especially if HSS) and then change to down-cut for profile because of the tiny tab.
But a up-cut may work for all.

Pecking with down-cut is not really a good idea. ( I used old carbide and it did fine,at slower speed)

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Re: Dresser Box

Post by rsetina »

I have an idea for a box and these will work great for the hinge. I'd tried making hinges like this in the past but mine had a long side for the lid. I'd never thought of making them this way. Thanks for making the file available. It's much appreciated.
Rick

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subsea
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Re: Dresser Box

Post by subsea »

Thank you for the the post and the file.

glenninvb
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Re: Dresser Box

Post by glenninvb »

OK Guys,

I just tried cutting a set in bloodwood entirely with an up-cut bit.
It's a no go, the top was fuzzed up and the little tabs let loose on about half (pretty much useless)

I would say you need up-cut bit for holes then switch to down-cut on profile
The down-cut leaves the top clean and the spoilboard protects the bottom and the small tabs hold fine

*Also, please note! these hinges installed the way I did only allow a little over 200 deg. of movement, which is good for a shallow box, so on a tall box the top will need a stop of some sort

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Re: Dresser Box

Post by SPalm »

Nice box Glenn.
You pulled it all together quite nicely.
Love the overall shape too :)

Bamboo skewers can be chucked in a drill and either reduced by spinning them on a piece of sandpaper or just spun into the hinge holes if the fit is too tight. I don't know what the quality control guys who make these are spec'ing them to. They do make nice hinge pins as they are really springy.

Good job,
Steve

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Re: Dresser Box

Post by PaulRowntree »

Thanks Glenn!
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llwood
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Re: Dresser Box

Post by llwood »

That's a beautiful box with a great hinge design. I have a question about the deer and tree carving on the lid. Was that done with VCarve Pro, Aspire, or something else?

Thanks,
--Andy

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