Removing tabs

[stephenr]

Not sure if this idea was discussed before, but I started using an oscillating tool to remove parts from tabs, and tabs from parts. I always dreaded using a small hand saw, and I have tried many styles of saws, and still considered it too time consuming. Then, I ended up using too few tabs in an effort to cut down on processing time. I found the right balance of tab size to tab quantity for different sized parts, but still did not like the process. Now that I switched to the oscillating tool, the process is so much quicker I find I have been adding a few more tabs here and there for additional support.

Stephen R.

[highpockets]

Don't often use tabs, but when I do I also use my oscillating multi-tool works great.

[jimandi5000]

Not sure if this idea was discussed before, but I started using an oscillating tool to remove parts from tabs, and tabs from parts. I always dreaded using a small hand saw, and I have tried many styles of saws, and still considered it too time consuming. Then, I ended up using too few tabs in an effort to cut down on processing time. I found the right balance of tab size to tab quantity for different sized parts, but still did not like the process. Now that I switched to the oscillating tool, the process is so much quicker I find I have been adding a few more tabs here and there for additional support.

Dewalt.jpg

Stephen R.

That is what I use and I love it... I highly recommend putting one on your Christmas wish list "for your self".

[gkas]

I also use one to cut my tabs. The only drawback is that it cuts them too easily.

[Tailmaker]

I use tabs rarely as well but sometimes there is no choice. But when I started out, I thought making tabs as thin as possible which only leads to tearout when they fail while cutting or are pushed to hard.

Now I make the tabs rather sturdy, e.g. 0.06 or 0.08" thick. Then I cut them with a (non-orbital) jigsaw and a narrow fine tooth metal blade, making sure the tab is down on the bench so that the saw pulls in instead of ripping the tab out. The oscillating tools works as well but difficult if the CNC tool trace is convoluted. With any tool make sure to cut with sufficient clearance from the work piece (you must resist the temptation to cut it close...). It is much easier to sand off the nub of a protruding tab remnant than the scars of the saw into the work piece.

[stephenr]

I just realized I put my post about removing tabs in the project of the month forum. I apologize for that. Can this be moved to the Aspire tips forum?

Thank you,
Stephen R.

[BigC]

In recognition of an older post
I always use a digital calipers/micrometer to measure the depth of my stock for cutting depths
almost always this is not an exact science, especially when using MDF which can swell etc. coupled with setting exact cutting depths due to setting Z heights when first setting up especially if you're using the caveman paper method.
I utilize screwing my stock down, Carpet Taping my stock down and also using Tabs. all of which have their drawbacks.
I find myself going that half mm deeper on the cut to get me closer to the base then using a fine Zona Hobby saw (or Dremel)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Modelcraft-Zon ... th=1&psc=1
Yes, I do have an oscillating saw as you suggest but sometimes it's too cumbersome especially for smaller parts.
But again it's not to be discounted in the arsenal of removal tooling.
Just putting this out there and by no means a contradiction
Regards
C