All my profile projects are not cutting through the wood.

[Ramsey1]

I am profile cutting with Shark 510 using a 1/8' endmill. No matter what I do, the drill bit does not cut through the wood. I use a touch plate, and nothing seems to work. The unit runs the correct path, placing tabs, etc, but it's above the wood. The unit runs but never goes into the wood as it should. Up until now it's worked great. Thanks

[SteveNelson46]

Make sure your z-zero is set the same in the software as on your machine.

[Mark Jones]

You most likely have figured this out by now. I had the same thing happen to me with some of my shorter bits. I found my Spoil board was not thick enough. I now use 1 3/4" by 24" by 24" piece of MDF held down with 1/4" nylon bolts to the shark Table I then took a piece of particle board 3/4" by 24" by 24" that had the same nylon hole pattern in it so I could if I wanted to drill out the nylon bolts and remove what I refer to as JIG BOARDS. I then put a SPOIL board 1/4 by 24" by 24" on top of those two board held down with 23 gauge pin nails.

These pin nails do not affect my router bits as the metal is small and soft.

This system works great and allows me to use brass screws and brass washers as hold downs anywhere on the table. Clamps and tall fixtures were always something that took out bits or took a hit and made my xy and z get out of position. The new feature in Vcarve to avoid these is a nice addition. So I may go back to some toggle clamp methods now on my batch jobs.

[adze_cnc]

Up until now it's worked great. Thanks

Considering the rest of your post this is a bit of a contradiction.

The question I would have to ask is what did you do between when it "worked great" and now that "No matter what I do, the drill bit does not cut through the wood"?

Did you upgrade from an earlier version to the current one? Did you have computer crash necessitating re-installing some software, etc?

[neilgill]

Set the Z using the traditional "paper" method and not a puck. Then set Z to zero and run a test job again.

This will ensure that you are not relying on the controller knowing how thick your puck is and will tell you that something else is wrong.

Neil

[Mark Jones]

The Shark HD510 is designed to not cut into the t-track alum. Table. It simply won't go down that far unless you had a very long bit in it. Normal 1/8" endmills if they are very far up in the collet would not touch the top of a 3/4" spoil board. Physically can't make the cut.

I stopped that good idea with 2 jig boards and a 1/4" waste spoil board. If it's not addressed it will repeat itself again.