New Technique for Creating a Resin Dam

[pd417]

Over the last couple years I have tried numerous methods for creating a dam to keep resin
from flowing into other areas of a work piece when I do a resin inlay.
I tried silicone and while it works, it is a pain to remove and has a tendency to leave a residue
on my material which is difficult to remove, especially if I'm using and open grain wood like oak.
Even the good painters tape (Frog Tape) didn't work well.

So as I was looking around my shop for something new to use as a resin dam, I grabbed a roll of
aluminum ducting tape and with the sticky side out I made a border around the area I was pouring the resin.
The tape is flexible, very sticky and conformed to the outline fairly well. I did the pour and there was no leaks.

I don't know if this method has been used before, but it worked really well for me!

[Jan.vanderlinden]

Excellent bit of advice.
Thank you.

[Aussie]

Over the last couple years I have tried numerous methods for creating a dam to keep resin
from flowing into other areas of a work piece when I do a resin inlay.
I tried silicone and while it works, it is a pain to remove and has a tendency to leave a residue
on my material which is difficult to remove, especially if I'm using and open grain wood like oak.
Even the good painters tape (Frog Tape) didn't work well.

So as I was looking around my shop for something new to use as a resin dam, I grabbed a roll of
aluminum ducting tape and with the sticky side out I made a border around the area I was pouring the resin.
The tape is flexible, very sticky and conformed to the outline fairly well. I did the pour and there was no leaks.

I don't know if this method has been used before, but it worked really well for me!

Thank you for this method... I am doing resin work this weekend.

[highpockets]

Try using a hot glue gun. To remove the glue just wet it down a bit with isopropyl alcohol, wait about a minute and it will peel off clean.

[pd417]

Thanks John, that’s one I haven’t tried.

[Bill_L]

Thanks. Will give it a try. Here is another method that I use to keep Paints/inks etc from "bleeding" onto/into open grained woods. I use Oramask 811 to mask the wood. ( I use the Oracal instead of the Avery because it's adhesion is much stronger but if left on too long will require removal of some "sticky" residue left behind. Light sanding with 240 grit usually does the job.). I carve the the wood and then I use two coats of the dewaxed shellac sanding sealer. I can then fill/paint/ink the carving without any bleed. If it's fill I can sand down to the mask, remove it and do the fine sanding flush with the surface.

If I'm using maple or cherry bleeding is not as much of a problem and the Avery mask works just fine and is easier to remove.

Bill

[pd417]

Thanks Bill, never used Oramask, but will give it a try.



Paul