Finishing Advice
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- Vectric Apprentice
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Finishing Advice
I know we have a large group of forum members that are experts in finishing. I'm trying to avoid as many mistakes as I can as this is my first attempt. I'm V carving a poplar plaque. After carving my plan is to first seal the area that will receive the black spray paint used to fill in the letters. This will keep the black paint from getting into the edges of the wood I don't want black. First question what is that sealing product? Then I will spray paint with semigloss black paint in the V carved area. Is there a better paint to use than others, gloss, semigloss flat? Next I will sand the black and the previously applied sealer off the face of the plaque. I will then apply a stain conditioner, to reduce blotches, what is your recommendation for that. Then I will stain the plaque. My plan was to use Minwax, unless a better stain product is suggested. OK what have missed?
Gary
Gary
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Re: Finishing Advice
Check out my process under “sign painting” works great for me
Steve Harp
Wadsworth, Ohio USA
www.trlw.us
Wadsworth, Ohio USA
www.trlw.us
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- Vectric Apprentice
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Re: Finishing Advice
Steve, I actually saw that today and made a paper copy for future reference. Thanks!
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- Vectric Craftsman
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Re: Finishing Advice
Just posted this in another area but is appropriate.
Here is method that I use to keep Paints/inks etc from "bleeding" onto/into open grained woods. I use Oramask 811 to mask the wood. ( I use the Oracal instead of the Avery because it's adhesion is much stronger but if left on too long will require removal of some "sticky" residue left behind. Light sanding with 240 grit usually does the job.). I carve the the wood and then I use two coats of the dewaxed shellac sanding sealer (Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat). I can then fill/paint/ink the carving without any bleed. If it's fill I can sand down to the mask, remove it and do the fine sanding flush with the surface.
If I'm using maple or cherry bleeding is not as much of a problem and the Avery mask works just fine and is easier to remove. No matter what wood I use the letters/carvings come out sharp and clean.
Bill
Here is method that I use to keep Paints/inks etc from "bleeding" onto/into open grained woods. I use Oramask 811 to mask the wood. ( I use the Oracal instead of the Avery because it's adhesion is much stronger but if left on too long will require removal of some "sticky" residue left behind. Light sanding with 240 grit usually does the job.). I carve the the wood and then I use two coats of the dewaxed shellac sanding sealer (Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat). I can then fill/paint/ink the carving without any bleed. If it's fill I can sand down to the mask, remove it and do the fine sanding flush with the surface.
If I'm using maple or cherry bleeding is not as much of a problem and the Avery mask works just fine and is easier to remove. No matter what wood I use the letters/carvings come out sharp and clean.
Bill
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Re: Finishing Advice
Boy, thanks for that I am wanting to do that for the first time. Have you had any success without using the mask? Which Oracal Masking do you use?
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- Vectric Craftsman
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Re: Finishing Advice
These are the two that I use:
https://www.uscutter.com/ORAMASK-811-Paint-Mask-Stencil
https://www.uscutter.com/Avery-Dennison ... Paint-Mask
Too much work when you don't use a mask so I only went there one time.
Bill
https://www.uscutter.com/ORAMASK-811-Paint-Mask-Stencil
https://www.uscutter.com/Avery-Dennison ... Paint-Mask
Too much work when you don't use a mask so I only went there one time.
Bill
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Re: Finishing Advice
Thanks Bill, Oramask ordered.
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- Vectric Wizard
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Re: Finishing Advice
I do all mine the lazy way. I do the project. Sand and get all the nubies off as much as I can. Put a coat of sealer on, sand smooth and the sealer stiffens any remiaing nubbies and helps them break off. If need be, another coat of sealer, sanding afterwards, then one coat of finish. At this point nothing should penetrate the wood. Now you can either glaze or paint. I use water base paints, so you can use water to erase any errors you make. After that dries, another 1 or 2 coats of finish to top it off.
Bobg
Bobg
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Re: Finishing Advice
When you use the Oramask do you account for the thickness of the mask when V carving?
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- Vectric Craftsman
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Re: Finishing Advice
Yes. That's because I Z-zero the machine off the top of the work piece just prior to machining. I have a ShopBot and utilize the Z-zero plate. The thickness of the mask is generally insignificant for most carvings.
Bill
Bill
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Re: Finishing Advice
Do you happen to know the thickness of the Oramask, mine hasn't arrived yet?
- mtylerfl
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Re: Finishing Advice
Oramask 811 is 3 mil thick (0.003”)
Michael Tyler
facebook.com/carvebuddy
-CarveWright CNC
-ShopBot Buddy PRSAlpha CNC
facebook.com/carvebuddy
-CarveWright CNC
-ShopBot Buddy PRSAlpha CNC
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- Vectric Apprentice
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Re: Finishing Advice
Thank you Michael, I do some very fine V carved letters and that .003 might actually make a difference in my carve.