Glueing Inlays

[Aussie]

I know that I use too much glue when doing inlays.... the squeeze out stains the end grain and requires more sanding than I would like, guess I am more worried about using too little glue and starving the joint for fine detail inlays which would be broken off when flattening the inlay.

I am going to try covering my board with oramask prior to carving the female and see if that helps... will do a couple of tests and let you know how it goes.

Any other suggestions???

[Tex_Lawrence]

... the squeeze out stains the end grain and requires more sanding than I would like ...

What glue are you using now? Maybe changing glue would be better? Or maybe change the way you clean off the squeeze-out?

My experience with a mask is getting it to stay stuck around fine details.

[pappybaynes]

Seal the wood with shellac or ??? prior to cutting.

[martin54]

I would experiment with using a sanding sealer after the cut but before the glue-up to see if that helps. If the end grain is sealed then you might not get as much glue staining

[Tailmaker]

A clear hybrid silane glue should be easier to deal with. Here in the US, e.g. "Clear Gorilla Glue" (not the nasty foaming Gorilla Glue) or in Germany e.g. "Pattex 100%". No idea if such stuff is available in Australia.

This glue does not shrink, is solvent free and elastic with longer open time than PVA glue. It does not soak into the grain and can be sanded off easily, since it does not melt. I have been using that for inlays and finger joints many times. Quite expensive but you do not need much. No water cleanup, though.

The parts must fit well, because the glue is crystal clear and allows to see deep into any gaps, so they appear dark.

[adze_cnc]

Ron,

Do you glue the socket or the plug? Many vids you see show people slathering glue onto the plug overshooting the angled areas and applying glue directly onto the same surface they’ll need to sand later.

If you apply glue to the inlay plug you can cover the sloped areas without worrying about glue getting onto the flats as those will be in the “glue gap” and “air gap”. Just make sure the glue on the “air gap” portions is wiped well so that it doesn’t drip down onto the cutting board or what have you (or clamp up inverted).

Also, a glue with a longer open time might help on over applying as you’re not in a rush to get the glue on and under pressure.

Steven

[Aussie]

Thanks to all will try a few of your suggestions on some test pieces