US Flag on Work Shop

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TReischl
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US Flag on Work Shop

Post by TReischl »

I have been working on this one awhile. It measures 36 inches long by about 22 tall. Mounted it below the all night shop light. I am not much of a photographer soooo. . . . .
US Flag.jpg
Here is one my wife took, she is obviously better with a camera!
US Flag 2.jpg
"If you see a good fight, get in it." Dr. Vernon Jones

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Re: US Flag on Work Shop

Post by CrowsWW »

That looks real nice. Great Job!
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highpockets
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Re: US Flag on Work Shop

Post by highpockets »

Beautiful work Ted, you're getting some mileage out of that eagle.
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Re: US Flag on Work Shop

Post by mark-s »

Love the theme.
Take a picture in day light and post.
Looks great.
mark-s

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Re: US Flag on Work Shop

Post by Todd Bailey »

Hello TReischl...

That looks FANTASTIC!!! Well done! Thanks for sharing.
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Re: US Flag on Work Shop

Post by WNC_Ed »

Ted,
That looks absolutely spectacular!
Congrats!
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Re: US Flag on Work Shop

Post by garylmast »

Love the theme.
Take a picture in day light and post.
Looks great.
mark-s
Plus 1

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Re: US Flag on Work Shop

Post by dwilli9013 »

Very Nice Ted. The lighting gives it a very cool effect. Thanks for sharing. :lol: :lol: :lol:
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TReischl
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Re: US Flag on Work Shop

Post by TReischl »

OK, my better half got a nice pic this evening:
2019-05-17_19.37.48.jpeg
This actually shows the waves in the flag. Taken right near sunset.

Thanks for all the compliments!!!!
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Re: US Flag on Work Shop

Post by mtylerfl »

That looks fantastic, Ted!
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Re: US Flag on Work Shop

Post by scottp55 »

VERY Nice Ted!! :)
Looks VERY deep...What was total depth, and where was the spot most in danger from the collet nut(before clearing)?
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Re: US Flag on Work Shop

Post by mezalick »

Last picture looks great.
Nice work.
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Re: US Flag on Work Shop

Post by TReischl »

scottp55 wrote:VERY Nice Ted!! :)
Looks VERY deep...What was total depth, and where was the spot most in danger from the collet nut(before clearing)?
LIKING it!
scott
Total depth is 2.7 inches. The deepest place was along the eagle's throat. That was an issue because I had neglected to add a bit of taper and the software was cutting inwards towards the center at that point so all the material was still there. What I did was define an oval area around the throat so that it would cut from the inside out removing the step of material first.

My biggest challenge these days is painting. My first issue is that I get in too much of a hurry to see a project completed (aka the little boy syndrome). Second is prep, I am getting much better about that. Third is the type of paint. Latex is great to work with, fast drying, easy cleanup, etc, but I am starting to think that oil based paints produce better results.

The flag is made from big box pine that I made sure had dried out. I culled it for knots, ripped it to the 2.7 thickness, flattened both sides and then face glued it. Pine gets a bad rap all the time because it rots. That is both true and false. If you paint pine and then mount it so that water cannot be trapped on its surface it will last longer than most of us. So what I do is use standoffs on the backside so the water is not trapped between the sign and the building. I just use a couple of thin strips of white oak which is highly rot resistant in a vertical position. That way water is never trapped behind the sign. I sort of figured this out by looking where some adirondack chairs I built about twenty years ago had started to rot. Of course on the bottom of the legs from wicking water up and also wherever there were any places that water would get trapped, like where the back slats met the seat.

There are a couple of reasons I do not just use treated SYP. First is that the dust from it is downright unhealthy, secondly is that it sands lousy, third is that it is really fast growing which makes for huge grain that tends to splinter easily when cutting.

I am not in the mode of building monuments that future generations will "Oooo, and Ahhhhh!" More than likely whoever buys this place after they plant us will say "What is with that flag? It's gotta go!" or maybe not, in which case they can get out their paint brushes and give it another coat. I did use stainless steel screws to mount it so that they do not rust and run down the face of the flag.
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Re: US Flag on Work Shop

Post by scottp55 »

Total depth is 2.7 inches. The deepest place was along the eagle's throat. That was an issue because I had neglected to add a bit of taper and the software was cutting inwards towards the center at that point so all the material was still there. What I did was define an oval area around the throat so that it would cut from the inside out removing the step of material first.
Thanks Ted!! Hadn't thought of that.
Yep, Aspire Would come in handy to give a little slope to a near vertical surface!
Maybe one day :oops:

Thanks!!
scott
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GMH


scott

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Re: US Flag on Work Shop

Post by mtylerfl »

Ted,

Did you take any photos of the raw glue-up and photos during/after the carve (before painting)?
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