That's a whole lot of real good information in your reply.
I hope you will forgive me, but I had to translate your reply for any pirates out there:I never knew there was a translator for pirate talk. The pirate translator is over here. http://pirate.monkeyness.com/online_pirate_translator
'n nope I do nah mind sharin' in th' least.
That be nasty ole big box construction pine. i wrote about usin' it in another post th' other day. Essentially a scallywag needs t' let it dry out a bit. That be pretty quick wit' th' "fir" type pines, nah sure about SYP, prolly. Lately I 'ave used th' followin' process:
I buy 2X6 'cause o'er here in th' low country all pine o'er 2X6 be SYP.
Park th' boards out in th' hot NC sun fer a few days t' help start them dryin'.
Cut it t' 19 or 23.5 lengths avoidin' knots, especially big ones. (those numbers make best use o' an 8 foot length)
Rip th' pieces t' either 2.687 or 1.75.
Then I let them dry in th' shop, pieces dry out faster than waitin' fer a whole board t' dry out.
I flatten one side. 'cause these are wee pieces I jus' run them through th' drum sander. Then flatten other side.
Glue them up positionin' boards that 'ave knots so that th' knots wind up outside th' carvin'.
Aft th' glue dries fer a couple o' hours I use th' TS t' cut some slots on th' edges so I can clamp them without puttin' clamps on th' top surface o' th' glue up. This will help folks who 'ave limited Z travel do thicker pieces like this.
I then flatten th' top surface wit' a pocketin' pass 'n a large bit. Flip 'n repeat.
Now 'tis ready t' go.
I 'ave been usin' HSS bits whenever possible. Those bits are sharper than carbide.
Nah sure th' followin' be th' absolute best way t' do this but 'tis wha' I do.
Larger end mill fer roughin', like 10mm (.375). DOC be usually about 6mm (.250) wit' a feedrate o' 300 IPM. Th' stepover be 50%. Th' reason I do 'tis that thar be a LOT o' material t' be roughed out in carvin's this deep. I leave at least .125 o' material from th' roughin' operation. Be sure t' mill out material outside th' model boundary t' create clearance fer th' router collet when usin' a weeer finishin' bit.
'tis where it gets a bit trickier 'n I be nah sure 'tis th' best way.
'cause a 10mm or larger bit does nah get into a lot o' places thar be still a lot more material that needs t' be scuttled afore a finish cut.
I use a 6mm HSS ball nose bit t' scuttle that material usin' a roughin' pass. But I do nah wants t' watch it cut air so I set th' depth o' cut greater than th' model depth 'n do a roughin' pass wit' about a .03 stepover 'n I leave .03 fer th' finishin' pass. This has been workin' out well so far.
This two step process helps wit' how long it loots t' rough out deeper models.
Time fer th' finish pass.
Sometimes I shall leave tabs but usually nah. As someone else pointed out on th' other thread, millin' out this much material can cause th' piece t' warp. Th' workpiece has th' corners left aft machinin'. So I jus' flip it o'er, clamp usin' th' slots again right on th' corners 'n flatten aft wit' a pocketin' pass. I use a raster pass so that as th' piece be cut free it falls away from th' cuttin'. An offset strategy be a bit iffy as t' when th' part will fall free 'n how, it can mighty easily turn a bit 'n that ain't good.
Hoped that helped explain wha' I be doin'.