Wedding sign

[dhellew2]

For a September wedding in Stockton CA [wife's nephew]
Made from locally harvested red maple [central WA] and Canadian black walnut
Walnut letters are inserted into pockets [pockets cut with a spiral 3-flute end mill]
Dished heart and border hearts are the same 3d graphic from Vectric, carved with a 0.093" 3-flute spiral ball-nose bit
Borders, lines, and v-carved text are cut with a 60 degree 4-flute v-bit

Photo does not do justice to the color of the wood
As shown it has one coat of teak/tung oil to bring out the color; after a second coat it will be coated with 2 coats of Rustoleum clear industrial enamel

Dale

[mtylerfl]

That's beautiful, Dale!

[zeeway]

Good one, Dale. I like the "established..." ref.

Angie

[scottp55]

NICE Dale:)
Caught some nice curl in the large dish
How long are you giving the Tung to cure before your clear coat? (haven't used that clear---no problems?)
They should LOVE it!!
On a different note;
On your multiple 3D's on the border, did you have any problem with each of them carving completely before it moved on to the next one?
Reason I ask is when doing 20-30 small button 3D's, sometimes it gets halfway through a dish...and then swaps to another...and then goes back to finish.
Witness lines are REALLY small, but there.
Also just wondering if in Aspire you could simply select a single small 3D, or if it tries to carve all?
When I try proto batches to compare cut qualities with different strategies, I have to array the boundary vectors separately and then move a single model from boundary vector to boundary vector for single cuts. Slight PITA.
Very nice work and they'll treasure it.
Sorry for all the questions.
scott

[dhellew2]

Scott,
I usually wait 24 hours after the teak/tung oil is applied to do the clear coat. They are both solvent based [mineral spirits] so application is not a problem putting one on top of the other, both have a 24-hour recommended recoat time.

The teak/tung oil makes a good sealer but lacks somewhat for weather resistance whereas the rustoleum is formulated to meet or exceed salt spray tests on metal. We are getting more than 20-years life with the Rustoleum clear coat in the California humidity & sun and the Washington dry heat and cold winters.

No, I didn't have any issues with the border carving. I used the copy along vectors tool. It started on the first one end and went all the way around. I included the vector boundary with the 3d art when doing the array.

Dale

[scottp55]

Thanks Dale.
Appreciated.
scott

[mtylerfl]

... 2 coats of Rustoleum clear industrial enamel

Dale

Hi Dale,

I know I asked about this before (and you responded), but I cannot find where you had described the specific version of the Rustoleum clear industrial enamel you are using. Would you be so kind to post that info again, please? (and a web link would be mighty handy, too)

I found a couple versions of what appear to be "industrial" on Amazon, but I don't know if either of these are what you are using or not:

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-161083 ... ial+enamel

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-V21028 ... ial+enamel

[dhellew2]

Michael,

I usually use brush on because it leaves a thicker coat than spray but I have use both with success [alkyd enamels]

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-Cr ... r/17011172 [label will show as 7701]
I don't know the number off hand, but the above is also available with uv protection in it.

If walmart has it they usually have the best price... as much as $2 per can less than Lowes and Home Depot.

The white label is the variety I use most of the time which is the 7400 system. This year I painted 3-houses with the light neutral gray [7280 or 7280402] then trimmed with navy gray or marlin blue [866402] purchased from Home Depot.

The silver label titled Industrial Enamel is also mineral spirit based and sometimes to get the color I want I mix the two types together.

The clear [brush on type] is 717402

The only caution I can give you, as is with all paints, make certain they are base compatible... water to water; mineral spirits to mineral spirits, lacquer to lacquer, etc.

Lacquer thinner, toluene, and other 'hot' thinners can act as a paint remover.

Application of mineral spirit paint over lacquer/toluene etc. is ok once the solvent has evaporated. [lacquer takes about an hour]

The same applies to water based acrylics... once completely dry you can use solvent based paint over the acrylics.

Water based paint over oil based paint without proper preparation will fail and peel.

WHEN IN DOUBT OR NOT SURE DO A BIT OF TESTING. IF THE PAINT WINKLES OR SEPARATES YOU WILL KNOW YOU HAVE A PROBLEM CAUSED BY HOT THINNER.

Dale

[mtylerfl]

Thank you for the great information and tips! Will really come in handy!

[dhellew2]

Are you still going on your cruise in October or will you be at the UGM? You do know you will be missed. Dale

PS I should make a few more comments... when I said base compatible I should have said 'when the paint is wet.'

Once fully dried, other types of paints can be used but use caution especially when using fast dry 'hot' thinner paint [it can remove water based paint too] or water based over oil.

Other brands have similar formulation but Rustoleum usually contains more solids [pigment] that's why some spray paint seem so runny.
Rustoleum products include Watco, Varathane, Zinsser, X-I-M, Wolman etc.

[mtylerfl]

Thanks again, Dale. Yes, going on the cruise in October. The Vectric UG overlaps the dates of the cruise, unfortunately. My eldest son planned/organized for two years to have a "family cruise" so I couldn't pass, of course. Man, oh man, I will sure miss attending the UG, though!

[dhellew2]

Ya gotta do what ya gotta do... have a great time. Dale