Vectric Customer

I am in a crunch. I have searched hi and low on diamond tip drag bits cutting glass and nothing. I find a lot on carving or etching but I need to score glass. I am making a Texas shaped shadow box and need to cut some glass into the shape of Texas as well. I have tried running the drag bit over the same spot numerous times but no luck. If anyone could help I would so appreciate it.

I used to cut glass for stained glass art pieces, but not with a CNC drag knife. What is the issue you're having with the drag bit? Is it not scoring deep enough, or are the places with the sharp inside corners breaking? How big does the glass Texas shape need to be?

Chris

I don't believe your are going to get a successful cut using just the CNC engraving bit (actually scoring the glass...not really "cutting" it). You will still need to make some cuts using a manual glass cutter, nipping pliers and possibly a glass grinder if you want to get that particular about the outline detail.

I used to do stained glass myself...both Tiffany and old-school lead came methods. I made a quick and dirty diagram of a basic procedure of how the glass would be cut for the Texas shape. The red lines are the score lines. In actual practice, there may be more cuts than illustrated.

Areas where it's not possible to make a clean break (90-degree angles, for example) would be where you "nibble" and grind. I still have my Wizling Diamond Router (a small glass grinder with water reservoir) when I was making tons of Tiffany windows and lamps. It's mighty handy!

This would be a quick job using standard methods (manual glass cutting and grinding). I don't think it would take more than 20 minutes, total (if that). Michael M. could probably do it in 5 minutes, since he is in good practice!

EDIT: If you're in a crunch, just have your local glass company cut out and grind the shape for you. It shouldn't cost that much. Pretty easy job.

I cut things like this from polycarb or lexan sheets. Polycarb is easier to work with and available at the big box stores.

Kipp

You can cut glass with cnc but it requires a swivel glass cutter [spring loaded is a good idea] and for best results use a light oil or kerosene to lube the cutter
They are available or you could make your own [you can find ideas on the web]
http://www.solsylva.com/cnc/cut_glass.shtml

Dale

dhellew2 wrote:You can cut glass with cnc but it requires a swivel glass cutter [spring loaded is a good idea] and for best results use a light oil or kerosene to lube the cutter
They are available or you could make your own [you can find ideas on the web]
http://www.solsylva.com/cnc/cut_glass.shtml

Dale

Anyone know where one can purchase a swivel glass cutter already prepped for CNC use? Not sure I'm ready to attempt making one yet. I've tried the drag bits including that expensive model with less than stellar results. I'm educated enough to know I must use a wheeled glass cutter, but have not found one on line with a good swivel and spring action.
Thanks,
Ian

http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae25 ... eb910a.jpg

Why not cutout the state in wood and mount the glass to the back vice trying to cut the glass to shape....if you cut the shape of the State you only have to cut the glass to extend beyond the edge of the cutout and it could be square round or roughly the shape of the state but it would not have to be exact.

While I like the idea of cutting glass with a cnc, it's just not practical for shapes with inside corners. I agree with the prior post. Glass cutting is really not cutting but creating a score that leads to a weakness in the glass that the next step (fracture) terms to follow. The key term here is tends to follow. Even master glass workers can't make it follow the score every time. And the score never will follow a drastically acute inside curve. Hence the stain glass industry uses glass router tables and grinds the unwanted glass away. BUT and this is a really big but! Glass is not stable, it moves over time. It also expands and contacts with temperature. So acute inside cuts are very fragile and unstable. While you may be able to route this area away over time the glass will most likely crack cross your project. So that being said maybe a substitute media or a whole new look to your design might be the best best. If you must have glass how about cutting the state into areas or districts that minimizes or eliminates the inside cuts. This is why large stain glass panels are always broken up into smaller segments. Then all the work you put into this project won't be lost 5 years down the road when the glass cracks.
Good luck, I like the idea!

Joe Paszkiewicz
Empire design
St Louis, MO USA

When cutting glass I use a swivel head cutter with an oil reservoir that feds oil when you press down on the cutter wheel.
When cutting more than one piece I make a template from poster board, offset inward 1/16", then saturate the edge with clear spray paint or wood hardener.

I don't know if they are still available but mine is a Toyo TC-600. I've been using the same one for years and it still cuts, even 60-year old glass.

Dale

I think for what you are wishing to achieve, then this guys methods may be best suited.

MinkyStinge wrote:I think for what you are wishing to achieve, then this guys methods may be best suited.

That is VERY interesting. Makes me want try it someday. Thanks for posting the link.