Looking to hire someone to design a 3d model

[Woodmage7212]

I am a piano key maker and in the USA there is not an American manufactuer of ebony sharps. Normally this is not a problem since we get them from Germany, but its expensive ($7.00 USD per sharp x 36). Also 2020 has taught me the hard lesson of having a local supplier or making it yourself. Being a classically trained woodworker I did indeed attempt to manufacture these sharps by traditioanl non-cnc methods (i.e. router tables, miter boxes, etc) and could not get a sufficiently concsitent result (+- 0.03mm or 0.001"). I will already need to purchase a Next Wave Shark HD500 as it's accurate within 0.03mm rather than my Shopbot which is accurate +- 0.18mm or 0.007".

I have the cnc exerience to make them but only have vcarve pro. Aspire is not part of my skillset or budget due to the little amount I would use it. I can provide technical diagram and onshape 3d model detailing all of the pertinent angles, round overs, and complex curves. I have attached 2 pictures so you'll have an idea of what im looking for. I need this someone soon so please email me at reyburnkeyrecovery@gmail.com with a quote and time estimate if you're interested.

[Rcnewcomb]

A 3D design will be too slow and not have the resolution you want.

You will get better results if you use 2D toolpaths and 2-sided machining.

Break the design into the cuts that are needed to achieve the finished piece.

A jig to help with consistent angles may be a useful part of the solution.

[ElevationCreations]

I will already need to purchase a Next Wave Shark HD500 as it's accurate within 0.03mm rather than my Shopbot which is accurate +- 0.18mm or 0.007".

If you are looking to produce these and have consistency you may want to consider a machine which has limit switches and can consistently home to the same location. As I understand it the NW machines do not have that capability.

[Woodmage7212]

Making 2d tool paths may indeed help my situation and will require a fair bit or careful thought on jig design/hold down. Very little surface area. I will already be using a light coat of heat release glue on the bottom of the sharps onto and aluminum mounting jig for a full set (36) and then heat the jig up to release the sharps.

Due to all the angles on these all my hold down jigs will need to be matching angles to compensate. No 5 axis here!

I think I have a much clearer idea of how to make these on the CNC without resorting to a 3D profile.

[ger21]

Couple things that come to mind.

$7 does not seem like a lot. You'd have to be able to make about 20-25 per hour to make any money at that price.

Making wood parts accurate to .001" is not going to be easy. Your hot glue is going to be maybe .005" thick?

Personally, I'd be making some table saw jigs to cut the ends to finished size, and maybe make them slightly taller. Then, I'd only run a single 3D finish pass on the tops of them. Alignment on the CNC will be critical, and I doubt you can achieve the .001". Maybe .003-.005"?

[Woodmage7212]

I’m be already begun the metal gymnastic of engineering specific jigs in order to minimize CNC time. Ideally I’ll make 300-500 blanks with the angles cut on the sides and front (4 and 35 degrees respectively). Then have a CNC profile for the leading edge round, followed by the 1 degree slope on the top. I’m thinking trim router jigs at this point. The trickiest bit is the top round over which is a complex 3D curve. Honestly, CNC may not even be a viable options for this location location one.

[dealguy11]

If this is something you will do a lot, you may want to consider having special tooling made. It is possible to have a 4 degree bit with a little roundover at the top made. It will not be inexpensive - perhaps $250-350 for one. Same thing goes for a 35 degree bit with roundover. Generally you provide a dxf file to the toolmaker and they can make it for you. This will eliminate a lot of custom jigs and could address the issue of the little roundover on top.

I'm not sure where you are - there are a lot of companies that do this. I've used Ridge Carbide in NJ, DinoSaw in PA and Magnate in CA.