How to fabricate MDF, sheetmetal,hardwood veneer sandwich?
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How to fabricate MDF, sheetmetal,hardwood veneer sandwich?
I need to glue flat 26 gage sheetmetal to a 1/2 " mdf base and then glue hardwood veneer to the steel sheeting. This will be done on multiple blocks the largest being 48x30. I'm thinking some type of epoxy with 30 or 60 minute open time. I will clamp with a second MDF sheet on top of the metal or veneer with wax paper to prevent the adhesive from sticking to the clamping board in case glue bleeds through the veneer and use culls(?) to clamp it. In the end I want a veneered wood boards that a magnate will stick too. I'll be using rare earth magnates. Could someone make recommendations on the adhesive. I don't have a vacuum system. If you have a better approach I'm open to suggestions. I think contact glue may not be a long term solution.
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Re: How to fabricate MDF, sheetmetal,hardwood veneer sandwic
Don't know about the veneer but I've stuck metal to MDF a few times and I always use impact (EvoStik) type adhesive.
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Re: How to fabricate MDF, sheetmetal,hardwood veneer sandwic
I would go with contact cement. Epoxy would be the last choice.
Contact cement now comes in an odor free variety. It is easy to work with since you let it dry before placing it. And yes, it will withstand any kind of cutting force. Just make sure you use a J roller to press it down firmly.
Contact cement now comes in an odor free variety. It is easy to work with since you let it dry before placing it. And yes, it will withstand any kind of cutting force. Just make sure you use a J roller to press it down firmly.
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Re: How to fabricate MDF, sheetmetal,hardwood veneer sandwic
You could ask 3M: Bonding and Assembly/Large Surface Lamination
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Re: How to fabricate MDF, sheetmetal,hardwood veneer sandwic
If you use contact cement, then I'd recommend a phenolic backed veneer. Otherwise, the veneer will likely bubble eventually.
A better choice may be to epoxy paper backed veneer to the steel, ans use contact cement to adhere the steel to the MDF.
Spray grade contact cement is preferable, as it gives a much better bond.
It's important that the steel is VERY flat, especially along the edges. Even small amounts of bending from cutting will cause issues with bonding.
When veneering with contact cement, a J roller does not apply enough pressure for a really good bond. Here's some info for veneering with contact cement.
https://www.oakwoodveneer.com/hints.html
A better choice may be to epoxy paper backed veneer to the steel, ans use contact cement to adhere the steel to the MDF.
Spray grade contact cement is preferable, as it gives a much better bond.
It's important that the steel is VERY flat, especially along the edges. Even small amounts of bending from cutting will cause issues with bonding.
When veneering with contact cement, a J roller does not apply enough pressure for a really good bond. Here's some info for veneering with contact cement.
https://www.oakwoodveneer.com/hints.html
Gerry - http://www.thecncwoodworker.com
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Re: How to fabricate MDF, sheetmetal,hardwood veneer sandwic
That would depend on who is on the other end of the J roller. . . . .ger21 wrote:
When veneering with contact cement, a J roller does not apply enough pressure for a really good bond.
I have done some laminating with contact cement and have not had a problem with bubbling up at all. Certainly not an expert by any means.
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Re: How to fabricate MDF, sheetmetal,hardwood veneer sandwic
What size will the finish pieces be cut to?
I have been using contact cement for 40 years and have had only a few problems.
1) Work left in the direct sun.
2) Veneer without a backer allowing solvent finish to bleed thru causing release.
You should have no issues applying the metal to MDF with contact cement. I use 3M spray grade.
Veneer can be ordered with a Acrylic adhesive (standard 3M 467) peel and stick that will be perfect for your application.
One applied you will not be able to remove it, not a reposition-able product.
Robert
I have been using contact cement for 40 years and have had only a few problems.
1) Work left in the direct sun.
2) Veneer without a backer allowing solvent finish to bleed thru causing release.
You should have no issues applying the metal to MDF with contact cement. I use 3M spray grade.
Veneer can be ordered with a Acrylic adhesive (standard 3M 467) peel and stick that will be perfect for your application.
One applied you will not be able to remove it, not a reposition-able product.
Robert
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Re: How to fabricate MDF, sheetmetal,hardwood veneer sandwic
I should have been specific on the veneer. I have whole sale factory veneer from without a backing. I purchased a sizable amount 10 years ago. it was dry then and dry now but it is 8 to 16 inches wide by 96 to 108 inches long. Most stacks of each species of wood are matched sets so I can book match the larger pieces.
I'm cutting the continents of the world to mounted to a wall with offset (french cleat possible) so Euro-Asia is my largest piece and it fits on a 48 x 30 inch piece. The other continents include Middle East/Africa joined at the Suez Canal, Australia New Zealand and Philippines, North America, South America (connected at the panama canal, And misc Island such as Greenland, Iceland, and the northern lands of the NW territory. I will use a clear 1/4" acrylic to tie the islands together or places like Japan to the mainland.
I'm cutting the continents of the world to mounted to a wall with offset (french cleat possible) so Euro-Asia is my largest piece and it fits on a 48 x 30 inch piece. The other continents include Middle East/Africa joined at the Suez Canal, Australia New Zealand and Philippines, North America, South America (connected at the panama canal, And misc Island such as Greenland, Iceland, and the northern lands of the NW territory. I will use a clear 1/4" acrylic to tie the islands together or places like Japan to the mainland.
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Re: How to fabricate MDF, sheetmetal,hardwood veneer sandwic
With raw veneer, I'd only use epoxy to bond it.
I'd look into making a vacuum bag, and making a 2 or 3 ply veneer to go over the metal.
I'd look into making a vacuum bag, and making a 2 or 3 ply veneer to go over the metal.
Gerry - http://www.thecncwoodworker.com
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Re: How to fabricate MDF, sheetmetal,hardwood veneer sandwic
Out of curiosity, what is the purpose of the layer of metal between the MDF and the veneer?
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Re: How to fabricate MDF, sheetmetal,hardwood veneer sandwic
He mentioned being able to hang things with magnets...dealguy11 wrote:Out of curiosity, what is the purpose of the layer of metal between the MDF and the veneer?
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OP, regardless of what adhesive you decide to use, you must absolutely be sure that the sheet metal is thoroughly cleaned chemically to insure a good bond. There are various types of oils that exist on raw sheet metal from the production process that have to be gone for what you want to do to work.
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Re: How to fabricate MDF, sheetmetal,hardwood veneer sandwic
They now produce a ACM [aluminum composite material - plastic core .125 or .25 with alum faces] with steel faces. Cuttable with a saw and flat, if that might work.
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Re: How to fabricate MDF, sheetmetal,hardwood veneer sandwic
see my description a few comments above.dealguy11 wrote:Out of curiosity, what is the purpose of the layer of metal between the MDF and the veneer?
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Re: How to fabricate MDF, sheetmetal,hardwood veneer sandwic
Contact will work if you make the raw veneer a two ply using pva or another glue between the plies. Besides bubbling if you lay the various leafs of veneer side by side (no matter how well joined) those joints will open and move all over. That is why a previous poster mentioned keeping it out of direst sunlight but you still will not stop the movement. Contact cement does not make a hard glue line which is one of its strengths. Pvc or especially a catalyst resin glue are much harder glue lines. Also, a J roller works on plastic laminates but will not be satisfactory for veneer.
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Re: How to fabricate MDF, sheetmetal,hardwood veneer sandwic
Speak to a sign supply company that specialise in magnetic products, I use to buy all sorts of materials that were designed to give you a magnetic surface, one of them was a steel sheet in various thicknesses, The steel sheets were covered with a double sided mounting material on one or both sides ( I think) I never actually bought any myself because it was cheaper for me to make my own, bought sheet steel from local supplier & then used a double sided mounting film on either one or both sides depending on the style of board I was making, made a lot of custom sized Traffic management Boards for Hualage companies like that lol
48 x 30 is still small enough that you could do this by hand without a laminating machine
48 x 30 is still small enough that you could do this by hand without a laminating machine