Peck drilling question
- scotttarnor
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Peck drilling question
I am working on a cribbage board today peck drilling with a brand new .125 drill bit from Think & Tinker.
Is it normal to have a lot of clean up from drilling? What do I need to do to prevent all the fuzzies?
Is it normal to have a lot of clean up from drilling? What do I need to do to prevent all the fuzzies?
Scott T
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- ohiolyons
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Re: Peck drilling question
I have their 1/16", 1/8" and 1/4" drill bits and fuzzies have never been an issue for me.
Funky wood???
EDIT 1
There website says RPM >20K
Are you running less than that and plunging too deeply?
Funky wood???
EDIT 1
There website says RPM >20K
Are you running less than that and plunging too deeply?
John Lyons
CNC in Kettering, Ohio
CNC in Kettering, Ohio
- scotttarnor
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Re: Peck drilling question
I was very conservative on the plunge at .0625. I only ran at 15000 RPM, I will try 20000 next time. The wood was maple.
Scott T
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Re: Peck drilling question
Since the drills are so short I have them completely retract on each pecking cycle.
It does add time, but since drills are so short I don't worry about it.
It does add time, but since drills are so short I don't worry about it.
John Lyons
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Re: Peck drilling question
John has a good tip. full retraction after each peck.
Worth the extra time
Worth the extra time
- ohiolyons
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Re: Peck drilling question
Of course I don't do cribbage boards either.
On second thought!!!!!!
If I drill that many holes I might skip fully retract.
On second thought!!!!!!
If I drill that many holes I might skip fully retract.
John Lyons
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Re: Peck drilling question
I'm very new to this but have many years CNC turning under my belt.
Rather than drilling is it worth trying to pocket with a 2.5 or 3mm end mill?
Better control of the diameter and less likely to fluff up the hairy bits.
Or you could try a slightly smaller drill then change to the size you want and re drill the holes with no need for pecking?
This would give very accurate holes and may reduce the hairs.
As a turner I've never run at these sort of revs.
I worked with metal and the highest spindle speed I ever had was 4,000
Drilling at 20,000 could cause all sorts of "chatter" issues.
Good luck and I await an update on how you get on.
Rather than drilling is it worth trying to pocket with a 2.5 or 3mm end mill?
Better control of the diameter and less likely to fluff up the hairy bits.
Or you could try a slightly smaller drill then change to the size you want and re drill the holes with no need for pecking?
This would give very accurate holes and may reduce the hairs.
As a turner I've never run at these sort of revs.
I worked with metal and the highest spindle speed I ever had was 4,000
Drilling at 20,000 could cause all sorts of "chatter" issues.
Good luck and I await an update on how you get on.
- ohiolyons
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Re: Peck drilling question
The manufactures web page says 20-80K on these drills.
They also specify plunge rates too.
precisebits.com a great small American company based in Colorado.
They make everything in their Colorado shop.
Send them an email and Ron the president responds.
Their website has all sorts of formulas for calculating all things CNC.
My go to bit supplier.
They also specify plunge rates too.
precisebits.com a great small American company based in Colorado.
They make everything in their Colorado shop.
Send them an email and Ron the president responds.
Their website has all sorts of formulas for calculating all things CNC.
My go to bit supplier.
John Lyons
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Re: Peck drilling question
Hi Scott,scotttarnor wrote: ↑Sat Jun 25, 2022 6:22 pmI am working on a cribbage board today peck drilling with a brand new .125 drill bit from Think & Tinker.
Is it normal to have a lot of clean up from drilling? What do I need to do to prevent all the fuzzies?
I did have the fuzzies issue on drilling then I started using Brad Point bits and I do not have them anymore.
Thanks,
Jim
Jim
- ohiolyons
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Re: Peck drilling question
I'd be careful using normal drill bits in a CNC.
They are engineered for much slower RPMs that you normally see on a CNC.
They are engineered for much slower RPMs that you normally see on a CNC.
John Lyons
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Re: Peck drilling question
Scott,
I've done quite a few cribbage boards. I use a 2-flute .125 upcut end mill. 12,500 rpm @ 15 IPM feed .080 peck depth with a .05 retract.(not a full retract) (total depth is .300) It works really good for me. No fuzzies, nice clean holes. Cycle time is 20 mins.
Dan
I've done quite a few cribbage boards. I use a 2-flute .125 upcut end mill. 12,500 rpm @ 15 IPM feed .080 peck depth with a .05 retract.(not a full retract) (total depth is .300) It works really good for me. No fuzzies, nice clean holes. Cycle time is 20 mins.
Dan
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Re: Peck drilling question
Thank You all for the information you provided, I was able to use a dental tool to remove the piece that was left at the top of each hole. I was doing a .5 retract which I will definitely make smaller on the next board, I believe I may try and end mill as Dan O suggested.
Maybe it was the wood? I did not get any in my practice run.
jimandi5000, there was mention of a brad point bit in one of the topics not too long ago, I will have to look it up, they also stated they had good results with one.
Again Thank You all for your input/suggestions.
Maybe it was the wood? I did not get any in my practice run.
jimandi5000, there was mention of a brad point bit in one of the topics not too long ago, I will have to look it up, they also stated they had good results with one.
Again Thank You all for your input/suggestions.
Scott T
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Re: Peck drilling question
FYI when you use an EM if your X and Y are not set up perfectly you will get an oval.
John Lyons
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Re: Peck drilling question
When using an end mill, try finding one with a "fishtail" tip (PreciseBits has such as well as various ebay sellers). The protruding flute ends will cut the perimeter of the hole first, minimizing the tear out.scotttarnor wrote: ↑Mon Jun 27, 2022 2:34 pm..... I believe I may try and end mill as Dan O suggested.
A bottom cutting flat tip or a pointed drill bit will start cutting in the middle of the hole, allowing some fibers to be lifted out of the way before the actual flute can sever it.
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