Sanding the finished product
- TomGB
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Sanding the finished product
How about some suggestions from some of the long timers on tricks or tools to clean up or sand a finished product. I've used a rotary Dremel with wire brush to get in the grooves, and the same Dremel with sanding wheel helps some times. But I've seen some of those really intricate carvings you guys produce and there must be some tricks or tools you use to get such a smooth finish.
- rtibbs
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Re: Sanding the finished product
3M sanding discs work great for removing the “fuzzies” from your carvings. They have 1/8” mandrels you can use with your Dremel.
Available from many sources just look for 3M sanding discs
Available from many sources just look for 3M sanding discs
- martin54
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Re: Sanding the finished product
try a search on the forum as it's been talked about a few times so most of the info is already on the forum, I have quite a wide range of different methods depending on the actual project including hand & rotary brushes in nylon, brass & steel, dremmel type disks & mops, needle files & lolipop sticks with sand paper stuck on lol, pretty much anything that will get the job done.
Best way is not to have anything to sand so this may require more machine time, either a smaller stepover of running the toolpath a second time for clean up. Cutting direction can make a difference & seems to vary depending on grain, some cut better with the grain & some across. Sometimes I will start a finish pass & after a few minutes if it looks like it is cutting badly I will retoolpath it in the other direction & then try that to see if it makes a difference
Best way is not to have anything to sand so this may require more machine time, either a smaller stepover of running the toolpath a second time for clean up. Cutting direction can make a difference & seems to vary depending on grain, some cut better with the grain & some across. Sometimes I will start a finish pass & after a few minutes if it looks like it is cutting badly I will retoolpath it in the other direction & then try that to see if it makes a difference
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Re: Sanding the finished product
Try, (the sanding glove) web site, bristle brushes a lot cheaper
then dremel products JERRY
Top
then dremel products JERRY
Top
- Rcnewcomb
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Re: Sanding the finished product
The best solution is to get it as clean as possible straight off the machine so you don't have fuzzies in the first place. The factors involved are:But I've seen some of those really intricate carvings you guys produce and there must be some tricks or tools you use to get such a smooth finish.
- Using the right/best material -- examples: hard maple instead of pine, Sign foam (HDU) instead of polystyrene, Medex MDF instead of big-box cheap MDF
- Preparing the material as needed -- using sanding sealer before carving, ensuring the material is flat
- Using the right bits, feeds, and speeds for your setup -- this requires doing test runs to find the sweet spot for each of the bits you use, and observing what adjustments are needed for different materials
- Proper work holding -- if the material is vibrating while it is being cut it will be evident in the finish. Each work holding method has its own strengths and weaknesses
- Running a toolpath again -- Some people have found that running the toolpath a second time will clear out fuzzies left by the first toolpath. Some people apply another coat of shellac or sanding sealing and let it dry before running the second toolpath
- Randall Newcomb
10 fingers in, 10 fingers out, another good day in the shop
10 fingers in, 10 fingers out, another good day in the shop
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Re: Sanding the finished product
Randall has the right idea, a second pass does wonders if time permits
- Leo
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Re: Sanding the finished product
To Sand or NOT to sand --- THAT is the question.
The better choice - as least in my book - is NOT to sand.
Ahhhhh -- but HOW do we get there?
Randal hit the nail square on the head. PLAN AHEAD.
Material is KEY.
You want Really Dense, Really Hard, CLOSED grain wood.
PINE - is a HORRIBLE choice. Cheap yeah, but you pay the price on "sanding". Sometimes the Pine fuzzies are NOT going to sand away - as least not completely.
CUTTERS - How sharp is sharp? If they could only all be like a razor, life would be so much better. Not kidding here. Sharp is really important. Sure, you can save money, but you will pay for it in sanding.
Toolpath parameters. Speed and feed sure, but that's not all of it. You NEED to get a handle on chipload. That is the feedrate and the Spindle RPM set properly. What about Stepover? I like it a LOT smaller than a lot of other folks do. Gimme a .002 - or a .005 or a 5% or stepover and I ain't gonna sand, and I will get some NICE detail. BUT - you are gonna pay for it, in how long it takes to cut the model - but - I am NOT going to sand.
Work PREP. Garbage in = Garbage out. So gimme a 2x4 from borg, and throw in on the machine. Hope to get a high quality job done. Sorry - are you nuts? First, it is NOT nicely seasoned. Second it is NOT flat and it is NOT square. Starting out that way is not good. I like to be sure the face that gets clamped to the table is FLAT. I will then likely face off the top with the machine to be SURE the two faces are flat and parallel. That's a better start.
HOLDDOWN - is is SECURELY held down on the machine? I do not use cheap flexy plastic clamps. When I clamp something down, I do NOT want it to move.
I call some of this stuff GMP - Good Machining Practices.
If you want good quality out - you need to put good quality in.
Yeah - yeah - what about sanding. Martin has ya covered there. I do all of that stuff as well.
The better choice - as least in my book - is NOT to sand.
Ahhhhh -- but HOW do we get there?
Randal hit the nail square on the head. PLAN AHEAD.
Material is KEY.
You want Really Dense, Really Hard, CLOSED grain wood.
PINE - is a HORRIBLE choice. Cheap yeah, but you pay the price on "sanding". Sometimes the Pine fuzzies are NOT going to sand away - as least not completely.
CUTTERS - How sharp is sharp? If they could only all be like a razor, life would be so much better. Not kidding here. Sharp is really important. Sure, you can save money, but you will pay for it in sanding.
Toolpath parameters. Speed and feed sure, but that's not all of it. You NEED to get a handle on chipload. That is the feedrate and the Spindle RPM set properly. What about Stepover? I like it a LOT smaller than a lot of other folks do. Gimme a .002 - or a .005 or a 5% or stepover and I ain't gonna sand, and I will get some NICE detail. BUT - you are gonna pay for it, in how long it takes to cut the model - but - I am NOT going to sand.
Work PREP. Garbage in = Garbage out. So gimme a 2x4 from borg, and throw in on the machine. Hope to get a high quality job done. Sorry - are you nuts? First, it is NOT nicely seasoned. Second it is NOT flat and it is NOT square. Starting out that way is not good. I like to be sure the face that gets clamped to the table is FLAT. I will then likely face off the top with the machine to be SURE the two faces are flat and parallel. That's a better start.
HOLDDOWN - is is SECURELY held down on the machine? I do not use cheap flexy plastic clamps. When I clamp something down, I do NOT want it to move.
I call some of this stuff GMP - Good Machining Practices.
If you want good quality out - you need to put good quality in.
Yeah - yeah - what about sanding. Martin has ya covered there. I do all of that stuff as well.
Imagine the Possibilities of a Creative mind, combined with the functionality of CNC
- TomGB
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Re: Sanding the finished product
Thanks to all
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Re: Sanding the finished product
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DRY5AI/re ... asin_2_img
https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/MI10000/
These are my go to tools to clean up areas that require touch up.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DRY5AI/re ... asin_2_img
https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/MI10000/
These are my go to tools to clean up areas that require touch up.
- gkas
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Re: Sanding the finished product
+1 on both the 3M Bristles and the cordless Dremel. I watched Michael Tyler use the 3M Bristles, and they are fantastic. A little pricey, but they save a LOT of sanding.Pete Cyr wrote: ↑Tue Aug 31, 2021 12:13 amhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DRY5AI/re ... asin_2_img
I got tired of always having to plug in the Dremel, so I tried the cordless version. My corded version is now gathering dust in a drawer. The batteries last forever and charge quickly. I bought a spare battery for it.
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Re: Sanding the finished product
These work great and last forever
https://www.amazon.com/Swpeet-Abrasive- ... B07Z1G4DPV[attachment=0]wheels.jpg[/attachment]
https://www.amazon.com/Swpeet-Abrasive- ... B07Z1G4DPV[attachment=0]wheels.jpg[/attachment]
- scottp55
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Re: Sanding the finished product
Hey Tom,
I'm firmly in Martin/Randall/Leo's camp that the best way is Not to have to sand!
But not totally sure if you're talking VCarving or 3D...
the size of the project or materials you're using(etc.).
Pictures of projects that needed sanding you've done...projects you Want to do will help.
Different cutting strategies for different problems, like the Three above mentioned can help a Lot,
but pictures can offer more accurate help.
Learning Sweet Spots for your machine/materials/and bits via experimenting and testing yourself is best.
I did LOTS of testing!!
scott
I'm firmly in Martin/Randall/Leo's camp that the best way is Not to have to sand!
But not totally sure if you're talking VCarving or 3D...
the size of the project or materials you're using(etc.).
Pictures of projects that needed sanding you've done...projects you Want to do will help.
Different cutting strategies for different problems, like the Three above mentioned can help a Lot,
but pictures can offer more accurate help.
Learning Sweet Spots for your machine/materials/and bits via experimenting and testing yourself is best.
I did LOTS of testing!!
scott
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
- TomGB
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Re: Sanding the finished product
Thanks Scott, most of my work is Vcarving things for friends and relatives, just trying to learn some of the tricks of the trade to clean up the tight spots.