2d image to 3d model

[Max340]

Hi, I'm new to the CNC world. I've gotten a pretty good handle on the basic CNC stuff. But I've hit a wall when looking to convert 2d images to 3d for CNC carving. I cannot find software that reliably executes this conversion. Or maybe I don't know what my Vcarve Desktop is capable of doing. I have seen tutorials on Aspire making 3d conversions, but can Vcarve do that? If not, whats software should I look at to do this?

Thanks!

[jfederer]

Welcome!

There used to be a plug-in for the-software-that-shall-not-be-named 360 but it has been deprecated. However, Windows 10 has a 3D utility that will do this. It's called "3D Builder" and one of the things it can do is map the brightness levels in a 2D image into a 3D structure, which can be exported as an STL. That STL can then be imported into VCarve as a Model. Keep in mind that VCarve can only process a single 3D Model at a time (although you can have multiple ones in the Modelling workspace). That's the process I used for my fountain project: https://fabrikisto.com/updates-blog/

You'll need to play around with the settings for a bit to get the result you need. But it does work, and the price is right.

[Max340]

Thanks for the reply.

I've been messing with 3D Builder, but all I seem to get in Vcarve is a single height image that would make a great rubber stamp, but has little contour. From what you are saying, and from what I've read elsewhere, I must be doing something not quite right. I'll give it another shot.

[jfederer]

I had the same problem at the beginning. It's a combination of settings in 3D Builder and in the Modelling space in VCarve. I set the Z axis height in 3D Builder to a few cm (on a model that's 550 mm XY) then fiddled with it in VCarve Modelling space to get it exactly the Z height I needed.

[martin54]

A lot will depend on what you want to convert from 2D to 3D, the quality of the image you start out with & what you are prepared to accept in terms of 3D components. There isn't a magic one click button that works with any software that I know of & some degree of editing or malipulation is generally required
There are programs that offer a free trial period so maybe try downloading & trying some out. Steep learning curve but ideally you want to be able to construct your own 3D components from a photo, sketch or just your own designs
That unfortunately can take a long time to learn.

Sorry can't help with what software to look at other than Aspire

[adze_cnc]

Depending on why you want the 3D model you might already have the 2D to 3D ability in the form of VCarve’s “Photo VCarving Toolpath Strategy”.

[Max340]

Joe, you nailed it with the Z axis adjustment. After some messing about and understanding that the thickness of the 3d model was an issue, I managed to get Builder to put out and image/model that VCarve was able to see as something other than a block with cuts in it. From there, I was able to sort thickness and other options that left me with a preview that may not be great at first, but I think I can learn from and improve upon. Another answer noted image quality and constraints of the cnc, and I think that's another set of parameters I'll deal with as I learn. I worked for a while in a print shop, and image quality versus reproduction quality were always an issue, so this will probably be the same.

Thanks for the help!

I had the same problem at the beginning. It's a combination of settings in 3D Builder and in the Modelling space in VCarve. I set the Z axis height in 3D Builder to a few cm (on a model that's 550 mm XY) then fiddled with it in VCarve Modelling space to get it exactly the Z height I needed.

[jfederer]

On my first pass at this, I generated the STL using a plug-in for the-software-that-shall-not-be-named 360 but that plugin is no longer supported. That's when I switched to 3D Builder. The results were pretty much the same, and no battles with "free" software that keeps changing the rules like fusion (AKA "other software") does. I did the 3D Detail for my test piece using a TBN, but for the final one I just used a 1/4" BN. The resolution isn't as fine, but for my purposes it was fine enough. And it didn't produce the fragile peaks that the TBN did. So yes, it's always a compromise between resolution, finish quality, and desired results.

Keep experimenting!