2 sided job

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potl
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2 sided job

Post by potl »

Hi
I'm going to do a 2 sided job, and am wondering instead of making location holes. can I then use a 90 degree corner and turn the plate and lay this as it was in the same corner and run the job?

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highpockets
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Re: 2 sided job

Post by highpockets »

Not advisable, reference holes are the best way to go...
John
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TReischl
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Re: 2 sided job

Post by TReischl »

Only if your block is PERFECTLY square and you know the EXACT size and you have TONS of luck.

Flipping and locating as you asked about will produce double the error.

As Dr. John said, not advisable.
"If you see a good fight, get in it." Dr. Vernon Jones

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gkas
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Re: 2 sided job

Post by gkas »

highpockets wrote:
Sun Sep 20, 2020 8:27 pm
Not advisable, reference holes are the best way to go...
+1. Yup, I think most everyone that has done double sided projects has tried the 'align & flip' trick. Few still use it after the initial trials.

garylmast
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Re: 2 sided job

Post by garylmast »

I have done many dozens of double side projects, where each project has a dozen or more double sides components, making it hundreds of double sided jobs. Now I know MOST people recommend doing it the way the tutorial describes, however I think my way is so much easier and faster, and you don't have a zillion holes in your spoilboard by drilling peg holes. I make sure my material is PERFECTLY SQUARE (very important). I then either screw or nail some scrap wood to each side of the material block. So far I'm under 30-seconds (Okay a minute if I use screws) and have a jig where the material can be turned and be perfect where I want it. I always center the XY datum, but that is just my preference. So far I haven't had a problem being off when I do the back side. If you don't square your material first, use the peg system.

Gary
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BillK
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Re: 2 sided job

Post by BillK »

I have used several methods that work really well. For smaller parts I have used the two mounting holes on a piece of MDF under the work piece. Clamp the larger MDF down, workpiece on top, carve, add holes, remove workpiece, add holes to MDF, add dowels or pins, flip workpiece carve, cut out, finish.

When I need all the Z I got, I’ll set 2 pins parallel to X. Use a clean cut edge on the workpiece to mount against the pins. Use a square to mark a center line that starts on the clean cut edge and extend to both sides with pencil. Use a center of piece XY zero. Use a small or sharp point bit to locate zero on that line. Cut, flip, and with machine at XY zero with same pointed bit in, slide clean cut edge along pins until line on opposite side is under point of bit. Cut and finish. This always works well for me as it doesn’t matter if the isn’t centered on X in the workpiece, it just needs to originate from the same cut edge for both faces.
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