Removing excess masking film

[ken.gentry]

Your sign looks great. Was the black a latex paint poured into a tray?

I got the yellow/goldenrod paint in the form of a 4 ounce Valspar sample from Lowes. I didn't realize those $4.00 samples had that much paint in the container. Four ounces will last me a long time.

Ken

[jerry carney]

Ken, I used qt can of rustoleum for the black brayer rolled the letters and brushed the back
just poured some paint on newspaper and rolled with brayer. address is 1-1/2 HDU . will
last for years and if needed you can respray your base coat and redo letters

[Mark Bolton]

Sorry for the late reply, I would ditch any type of roller and opt to burnish the mask down with anything from a dead credit card or bondo squeege but the biggest issue we ever have regardless of straight/up/downshear tool, is feed speed. If your feeding to slow the material and the mask gets hot immediately adjacent to the cut which releases the mask and lets it pull/bubble/release even when heavily burnished.

I would give a shot at hogging out the bulk of your material and leaving a final pass that you can run as fast a feed as possible to leave acceptable results. Unfortunately if your forced to cut slow you may be stuck as the heat will fight you. Just think, you can removed factory automotive decals with heat. With any type of mask/tape heat will typically be your enemy. IF nothing else it foils you with bleeding under the mask.

[paulschultz]

Here’s good article on upcut vs. downcut: https://www.cnccookbook.com/cnc-router- ... -use-them/

I use a heat gun while applying the oramask but you have to be careful to not use too much heat. Just play with it, you’ll get the hang of it. I also use a down cut bit for my first pass and then switch to an upcut bit.

I recommend Gwizard feeds and speeds calculator from the website above. It takes all the guesswork out of it.