Faceshield design if anyone wants.

[JoeBlow]

I did not ask that question to be a wiseguy or make any kind of political statement.

On occasion I do some wood turning and then sanding on the lathe. A face shield similar to that one will protect the user from bits of flying debris. It does nothing at all to protect them from dust particles floating about in the air. That is a well known fact and is just the way it is designed.

Frankly, I do not know how they use one of those in hospital. I have seen them used in the dentist's office to keep from getting,,, ahh, let's not go into that. . . I suppose they might use them to keep people from inadvertently spraying them with spittle.

I think it is great that people want to help in these situations. I could be wrong about this but I am pretty darn sure if I showed up at the local hospital with a box of homemade face shields I would get a "Thanks, that is very kind of you, but hospital regulation do not permit. . . .".

As far as protecting any of us from the virus? Those won't do it.

Thank you for that response. I appreciate it.

[BDM]

Minor miracles will never cease! Got mine assembled and adjusted and right now it is printing out that little doggy thingamajig.

I have all sorts of ideas for it besides making upgrades, which I will do pronto.

One of them is step clamps for the cnc router. Like the ones used on a milling machine. Wonder how many I will under engineer before I get a good one?

I would highly recommend getting this replacement board (SKR Mini E3), removes a lot of the safety issues like your printer having a thermal runaway and burning down the house. Also this guy's videos on the Ender 3 are great. Learn everything you can from him, he saved me a lot of headaches along the 3d printer path. When you get a chance, print a 20mm calibration cube (thingiverse) and see how close it is to 20mm, odds are your printer will need fine tuning. I was able to get mine down to about .003". I would also run a straightedge over your printer bed to look for any wows in the surface. Ender 3's are notorious for not being flat, but there are ways around it that don't cost a lot. That being said, I love my Ender 3 PRO.

[TReischl]

Thanks for all the tips BDM!

Rest easy though. The machine runs in my shop and does not run unless I am in the shop. BUT! For the low, low price of $30 it is worth it.

Way ahead of you on the cube. Printed one yesterday, not too shabby for out of the box, within .07mm on all axis. I have full 3D modeling capabilities (Rhino) so I can make a lot of the things I need quickly.

I checked the bed while I was building it, downright flat according to the surface plate, about the most I could see was .002 towards a corner. That may be a moot point as I am planning on heading over to the glass shop shortly to get a piece of 4mm glass for surface.

As of this minute I am printing a fluted twisted vase that is about 80mm tall, 40mm at the bottom and flares out to 70mm at the top. It is running at 75mm/sec and doing nicely. These things are downright fun.

I did not see a link to your favorite YouTube guy, but the chances are good I watched him. For about three weeks now I have been watching every video I can find. My impression is that most of the folks make a bigger deal out of this than it really is. It is good though that they all pound on the idea of leveling the bed and setting the nozzle height as being key to getting good prints. I think I have figured out why these machines are so cheap. Sort of like the ink printers, give away the printer, sell the filament! Works for me.

So far I printed the doggy thing, fan cover for the electronic box, filament guide, test cubes, and a couple of other things. No hiccups so far. My only regret is that I wish I had gotten into this sooner, would have saved me lots of time on the milling machine.

[highpockets]

Ted, don't get just glass, get a mirror. The glass used for mirrors is held to a higher stander and is much flatter than just plan old glass.

[TReischl]

Ted, don't get just glass, get a mirror. The glass used for mirrors is held to a higher stander and is much flatter than just plan old glass.

Yea, but I am a low glass kinda guy!

I got some mirror around here, only problem is that it is 1/4 plate glass, way too thick and heavy.

Thanks for that tip John.

[BDM]

Sorry, forgot to include the link. He has a ton of videos that are all well made.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikHhzOIlHPg

[BDM]

For a glass bed, these work really nice (lot of vendors). Well worth the cost. I had a real dip in my printer bed, so this was a necessity.

https://www.sainsmart.com/collections/3 ... heated-bed

[TReischl]

Well, things are going swimmingly. From all I watched on YouTube it sounded like one needed to be a magician to print ABS. I just used their recommended settings and both parts turned out nice. I was also expecting a shop full of nasty fumes. That did not happen either. Murphy was going in and out of the shop all the while I was printing so it got some cool breezes and nothing bad happened.

Did have one failure though. A small coin type of object about 25mm in diameter, maybe 3mm thick. Had a pirate skull and crossbones on one side and I wanted some raised lettering on the other. The side with the pirate was less than ideal but I think that was my fault, the scale was just getting too small and the weld lines became too apparent. The other side did not work out at all. I made sure the letters were even with the rim of the coin so I would not be printing in mid air. The letters came out terrible, unreadable. This could also be a scale issue so I am going to scale up tomorrow and see what is what. I also used ABS on this item and that may have been part of the problem too, not sure.