Finishing pass help
Finishing pass help
Morning everyone! Noob here
Looking for some help on a project I'm trying to finish up on. I'm wanting to clear out the small areas around the top and bottom of the frame and also around the smaller lettering.
I've tried to make paths several times from .25 ballnose to small tapered ones and I can't seem to get all the extra.
Any suggestions?
Apparently I can't upload the picture without it deleting my post.
Looking for some help on a project I'm trying to finish up on. I'm wanting to clear out the small areas around the top and bottom of the frame and also around the smaller lettering.
I've tried to make paths several times from .25 ballnose to small tapered ones and I can't seem to get all the extra.
Any suggestions?
Apparently I can't upload the picture without it deleting my post.
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- Vectric Apprentice
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Re: Finishing pass help
Hello Noob,
it will help us to see the model and toolpaths you are using.
Will you please provide your files.
it will help us to see the model and toolpaths you are using.
Will you please provide your files.
- sharkcutup
- Vectric Wizard
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Re: Finishing pass help
When cleaning up smaller areas I usually use a 1/16th end mill. Of course on beveled areas or lettering I would tend to use a v-bit either at the same depth as the original passes or a shallower depth.
All the above is rather time consuming but the end product appearance is so much better looking.
Sharkcutup
All the above is rather time consuming but the end product appearance is so much better looking.
Sharkcutup
V-Carve Pro Tips, Gadget Tips & Videos
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Re: Finishing pass help
Here ya go!AlanAndrews wrote:Hello Noob,
it will help us to see the model and toolpaths you are using.
Will you please provide your files.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bu23zmtt5x60b ... 2.crv?dl=0
Sorry its dropbox, having issues with uploading a file to the forum for some reason.
- sharkcutup
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Re: Finishing pass help
After reviewing your file --- Even a .125 End Mill would help in clearing some of the smaller areas!
Unfortunately, after seeing the file too those areas you are wanting cleaned up are in very tight locations and if you used a 1/16th endmill you would remove the bevel from the outlying area of the lettering.
If the project was of a larger size most of that would be eliminated but beings that it of that size those areas may probably be handled better cleaning up with a steady hand and a dremel tool. That is if it is absolutely necessary to remove those artifacts/discrepancies. Some small discrepancies like this are sometimes best to just leave alone in fear of messing up the entire project. Of course this is only my opinion but maybe someone else here may have an idea they could share with us to solve your problem.
Sharkcutup
Unfortunately, after seeing the file too those areas you are wanting cleaned up are in very tight locations and if you used a 1/16th endmill you would remove the bevel from the outlying area of the lettering.
If the project was of a larger size most of that would be eliminated but beings that it of that size those areas may probably be handled better cleaning up with a steady hand and a dremel tool. That is if it is absolutely necessary to remove those artifacts/discrepancies. Some small discrepancies like this are sometimes best to just leave alone in fear of messing up the entire project. Of course this is only my opinion but maybe someone else here may have an idea they could share with us to solve your problem.
Sharkcutup
V-Carve Pro Tips, Gadget Tips & Videos
YouTube Channel - Sharkcutup CNC
V-Carve Pro 12.004
YouTube Channel - Sharkcutup CNC
V-Carve Pro 12.004
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- Vectric Apprentice
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Re: Finishing pass help
I agree with SharkCutUp on this.
Sometimes you need to compromise between what you would like and what can be achieved with machining.
I have done quite a lot of similar machining in recent months, and have had to play with various fonts to achieve an acceptable design and outcome. I do not go less that a 3.2mm cutter, so I've played with fonts and scaling to get things right.
You could change the scale of the design or reduce the thickness of the solid lines, so that you have a larger gap. But going too thin can also result in the wood shearing and it's then almost impossible to find the splintered bit to glue back.
Once you have a design of the correct proportions, then save this for reuse with other designs.
Sometimes you need to compromise between what you would like and what can be achieved with machining.
I have done quite a lot of similar machining in recent months, and have had to play with various fonts to achieve an acceptable design and outcome. I do not go less that a 3.2mm cutter, so I've played with fonts and scaling to get things right.
You could change the scale of the design or reduce the thickness of the solid lines, so that you have a larger gap. But going too thin can also result in the wood shearing and it's then almost impossible to find the splintered bit to glue back.
Once you have a design of the correct proportions, then save this for reuse with other designs.
- adze_cnc
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Re: Finishing pass help
"Stari",
If I understand what you are asking in your post this might be what you are trying to do. Am I on the right track?
Steven
If I understand what you are asking in your post this might be what you are trying to do. Am I on the right track?
Steven
Re: Finishing pass help
Hello fellow Steve! Yep that is exactly what I was looking for!adze_cnc wrote:"Stari",
If I understand what you are asking in your post this might be what you are trying to do. Am I on the right track?
Steven
How'd ya do it?
- adze_cnc
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Re: Finishing pass help
Using a 60-degree engraving bit with a 0.040 inch flat such as: http://www.onsrud.com/product/Item/m/it ... emId=37-09
Note the side effect is that where two sloped planes meet the edge is not as sharp as with an, effectively, 0 inch flat that a pure v-bit has. You could use a 0.020 inch flat bit to minimize this but increasing cutting time.
The tool type in the Vcarve tool database is "Engraving".
Steven
Note the side effect is that where two sloped planes meet the edge is not as sharp as with an, effectively, 0 inch flat that a pure v-bit has. You could use a 0.020 inch flat bit to minimize this but increasing cutting time.
The tool type in the Vcarve tool database is "Engraving".
Steven
- sharkcutup
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Re: Finishing pass help
Wow that is Great so those small areas can be eliminated after all!!!
Isn't great to be a part of this forum!!!
Good Luck everybody with your projects!!!
Sharkcutup
Isn't great to be a part of this forum!!!
Good Luck everybody with your projects!!!
Sharkcutup
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- adze_cnc
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Re: Finishing pass help
You could also use a 1/16" (for example) straight bit to do almost the same job. You'd need to create a "whacking-girt" amount of vectors defining a) where the foot of the slopes (to avoid removing the chamfers) meet each flat plane; b) an offset distance that encompasses all the rough bits you want to remove.sharkcutup wrote:Wow that is Great so those small areas can be eliminated after all!!!
Then it's merely a matter of creating pocket tool-paths to eliminate the rough spots. The engraving bit with a flat effectively does all that for you.
Re: Finishing pass help
All ive got right now are some 1/6 flat end and ball end mills. Also have theseadze_cnc wrote:You could also use a 1/16" (for example) straight bit to do almost the same job. You'd need to create a "whacking-girt" amount of vectors defining a) where the foot of the slopes (to avoid removing the chamfers) meet each flat plane; b) an offset distance that encompasses all the rough bits you want to remove.sharkcutup wrote:Wow that is Great so those small areas can be eliminated after all!!!
Then it's merely a matter of creating pocket tool-paths to eliminate the rough spots. The engraving bit with a flat effectively does all that for you.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-30-degree-c ... 2749.l2649,
but dont have one of the mills you linked (yet) im out of town this week so I guess ill get one on order.
Or I could just make it bigger. haha. Well see!
Thanks for the help!