Project post-mortem...

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geneb
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Project post-mortem...

Post by geneb »

I tried my first inlay this weekend and the result was less than spectacular.

Attached are the pictures of the results and the .crv files I used to create the parts. Can someone clue me into to what I did wrong? The inlay doesn't fit correctly in the v-carved pocket and I'm stumped as to why.

The material used was mahogany and poplar. The pine just disintegrated under the v-bit. :)

Thanks!

g.
Attachments
Buckles_place_pine_half.zip
(871.33 KiB) Downloaded 715 times
Buckles_place_mahogany_half.crv
(1.06 MiB) Downloaded 261 times
inlay_mistake3.jpg
inlay_mistake2.jpg
inlay_mistake1.jpg
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knighttoolworks
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Post by knighttoolworks »

your inlay was cut with pockets and not vcarved. Plus you need a start depth and finish depth when doing inlay. I use .125 as the cut is .25 when done.
to save time create boarders around the letters and saw blade so you don't have to remove all of that wood it will save a lot of time. also it will be easier to glue up the separate pieces. You want a lot of glue and as much clamp pressure as possible to get perfect inlays.

Paul Z
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Post by Paul Z »

Gene,

The .crv file seems to contain only the "socket" for the inlay and not the inlay itself.

With a socket flat depth of 0.2" the inlay should be cut with a start depth (D) of something like 0.1" and a flat depth (D) of something like 0.1".

The key to this type of inlay is that the sides of the cuts get forced together. The inlay and the bottom of the "socket" should not touch. Forcing the sides together is the reason for a lot of clamp pressure. Use lots of glue and let the glue set completely before removing the inlay backing.

Some materials leave a lot of "fuzzies" that need to be cleaned off before the inlay will fit tightly. If I see "fuzzies", I usually make a second pass on the cut. If there are still fuzzies, I use a wire brush to get them off.

It also looks like the cutter tore the inlay while being cut. You need to change the cutter, the cutting parameters, or the material to get a better cut.

I have experienced one other issue that might be at play here. Sometimes cutting the socket or inlay will release some of the stress built up in the wood. This can distort either piece and you want the final pieces to fit with extreme accuracy. A strategy in this case would be to cut both the socket and inlay in two passes with the first pass being perhaps 0.030" high.

Keep us posted.

Paul Z

PS I like the design!

Paul Z
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Post by Paul Z »

Gene,

Another thought ... Use scraps and work on just a single letter. When that comes out to your satisfaction, then try the whole design. That will save materials, and more importantly, a lot of time.

Paul Z

geneb
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Post by geneb »

knighttoolworks wrote:your inlay was cut with pockets and not vcarved. Plus you need a start depth and finish depth when doing inlay. I use .125 as the cut is .25 when done.
to save time create boarders around the letters and saw blade so you don't have to remove all of that wood it will save a lot of time. also it will be easier to glue up the separate pieces. You want a lot of glue and as much clamp pressure as possible to get perfect inlays.
If v-carving would let me carve the outside outline of the lettering instead of the inside, you'd be correct. However, I just changed the pocketing to v-carving and sure enough, it v-carved the lettering into the material, rendering it useless as an inlay. :)

I've attached an image of what the panel looks like when carved with my original file.
Attachments
bishops_place.jpg
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geneb
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Post by geneb »

Paul Z wrote:Gene,

The .crv file seems to contain only the "socket" for the inlay and not the inlay itself.
Paul the zip file contains the inlay portion. It was too large uncompressed to upload to the forum.
Paul Z wrote: With a socket flat depth of 0.2" the inlay should be cut with a start depth (D) of something like 0.1" and a flat depth (D) of something like 0.1".
The inlay was cut using a start depth of 0 and a cut depth of .25. The base material was cut with a start depth of zero and a flat depth of .02.

I don't know how you guys are v-carving the inlay and still getting a "raised" letter.
Paul Z wrote: PS I like the design!
Thanks. It's a year-late xmas present for the old man. :)
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Paul Z
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Post by Paul Z »

Gene,

I'd change any text into vecotors and the start depth must not be zero.

Paul Z
Attachments
Cutting Depth Diagram.jpg

Roly
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Post by Roly »

I found the tutorial in the forum to be extremely helpfull and it was so easy to understand it made inlaying straightforward.


Roly
from Batlow

geneb
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Post by geneb »

I'm obviously missing something, so I'll keep trying.

g.
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AngelicDiablo
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Post by AngelicDiablo »

This is a whole thread on inlays. Check it out. -AD :twisted:

http://vectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... ight=inlay
Buckle up... it makes it harder for the aliens to suck you out of your car! :-)

Paul Z
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Post by Paul Z »

Gene,

If you are still having problems, send me an email.

Paul Z

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