Vectric Customer

I'm not at my computer to check if this will work so be careful with the results. When a tool is selected from a database and placed in a toolpath there is no link between the two. Altering the one will not alter the other. There would be great chaos if that were not the case. Amen. it would turn "...

To be honest I don't recall adjusting F&S at all really, given that I was mostly cutting swarf/chips and not really "cutting".

I recommend not use a lead in or you'll get a little tearout as the bit progresses to depth. Lead in and outs are made in the waste side so the tearout doesn't matter. Apologies, my brain read ramp in :? You are correct. That is a good way if you have the room from clamps and enough waste material....

Do you have the ability to turn on the spindle CCW generally M04 This is exactly what I'd do. Edit the G-Code as a copy and use M04 for spindle start, rerun the program (if your machine supports it). I've done this a couple of times myself. Oh, and been there done that with PVC/HDPE. Two things: 1)...

adze_cnc wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 02, 2023 7:57 pm

Yup. With the proviso that like chamfer and fluting methods there will be cutting outside the envelope of the speaker face.
 
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This is great. I'm actually doing a drawer front and I wanted to add some corner flare, I just might steal this @adze_cnc thank you.

Not sure on the OP but the compression bits I use are meant to plunge directly at the changeover depth (the point where it goes from up -> down cut). I recommend not use a lead in or you'll get a little tearout as the bit progresses to depth. As mentioned, the pass depth of the first pass must be gr...

I posted this over at sawmill creek, but figured I'd share here as well given how happy I've been so far. I decided to pickup some ER25 collets (standard TIR) and I figured why not a matching set of collet nuts from Rego-Fix. These guys are the "R" in ER, so I figured they might now something about ...

I don't buy cheap bits. For me, my time and usually the project are far more valuable. Bits don't always break away from the project :D I work mostly with hardwoods and I do what you describe often. I use a bitsbits astra-coated 1/8" up cut endmill with 1/4" shank and 1" LOC. It's 30 bucks but perfo...

I would let your projects dictate your need to upgrade. I was lucky that my CNC came with Pro so the choice was made for me, but it was a couple of months before I hit a pro feature. So far, that’s where I’m at, so I’m a pro user. I also find the pro pricing is justifiable as an advanced hobbyist, w...

Bed zero for life! Just kidding, yea this gets me too when the 5% of the time I zero to the material and go back to machine bed. A template is a good idea which I might have to explore.

I did nearly this same task with 2 3x6 foot sheets for a project. Did the first with my Sawstop and it sucked. The second was done on the CNC with my vacuum and 1 tab on each side and a 1/8 bit. Time was about the same until you added in the shop cleanup time around the saw even with overhead dust e...

ohiolyons wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 11, 2023 4:52 pm

Not every wood working task is best done with a CNC router.

Sounds like a perfect job for a table saw.

True, but this task I respectfully disagree.

Make a zig-zagging vector that goes off the ends of the sheet by at least more than the radius of the tool. Cut on the line. One continuous cut. No retract or moving. This exactly. If you don’t like going off, create one line, array copy, create a tool path based on selection order and change start...

Correct bit used? Had something similar today and realized the idiot (me) driving the CNC used a 1/4 down cut when a 3/8 was what I programmed. Things just looked wrong and took me a bit to figure it out.

I would recommend you try on a piece of scrap first. With only 0.005 being removed it might be just fine at the IPM you mentioned unless you have any knots or harder grains. I don't know the depth of cut or chip load IDC specs at 175 but I suspect it isn't very much, but you're probably fine at the ...