I have been experimenting cutting lithophanes with Photocarve and the results are good.
material is .25" Corian
.047" ballnose with a 20% stepover and .010" stepdown.
Cut time was 5 hours and 33 minutes.
Dan
Lithophane test
Re: Beautiful
Hi Phil,Phil wrote:I assume you had to do some finishing or coloring after the cut was completed. Can you describe how you finished it?
What you see is exactly how it came from machine. There is no coloring or additional finish work done to it. The coloring and depth are all the properties of Corian. (as well as other solid surface materials). It actually looks much better than the photo shows.
The lithophane can be made even more photo-like by decreasing the stepover to 10% instead of 20% but it also increases the cut time to about 10 hours. I am sure that the time could be cut down considerably because I have been using a very conservative stepdown (.010") and fairly slow feed rate. (3 ips). I have a few broken .047 bits by being a little overzealous.
Dan
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Don,RoutnAbout wrote:What size is your material? And with a stepdown of .010" how many step downs are you taking? are you leaving approx .030 materal?
This particular litho was 5" x 6" and .25" thick material. Total stepdowns would be 16. I leave .050 but that usually depends on the contrast and subject matter. Darker pictures I try and leave .04-.05.
Dan
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Dan,
I've been able to cut that size lithophane to depth in one pass without breaking the tool at 3" per second. Find yourself what they call a Half Round Cutter ( or engraving tool ). You can get them in high speed steal or carbide and diamond tipped. The ballnose mills are fluted and are much weaker. The half round engraving tool with a radius on the end is much stronger and you will be able to cut to depth. I've never had a problem with corian melting at full depth or sticking to the tool.
Last fall I cut a large lithophane of 30"w x 20"hx .25" thick. If I remember right the radius on the tool was .040" and the stepover was .012" and max depth was .220", leaving approx .03" at the deepest. It was of the Skullfork Covered bridge from ohio. I cut it in 9 hours and 40 minutes in one pass. I'll see if i can find pictures of it here this week and post it.
When I etch into acrylic I have a small air line that I blow a constant flow of air on the tip of the cutter. It not only helps cool the tip but also blows the chips away so it won't melt to the tool or material. I also have the air directed in the same direction as the pickup for my dustcollecter so I have virtually no mess.
Hope this helps.
Don
I've been able to cut that size lithophane to depth in one pass without breaking the tool at 3" per second. Find yourself what they call a Half Round Cutter ( or engraving tool ). You can get them in high speed steal or carbide and diamond tipped. The ballnose mills are fluted and are much weaker. The half round engraving tool with a radius on the end is much stronger and you will be able to cut to depth. I've never had a problem with corian melting at full depth or sticking to the tool.
Last fall I cut a large lithophane of 30"w x 20"hx .25" thick. If I remember right the radius on the tool was .040" and the stepover was .012" and max depth was .220", leaving approx .03" at the deepest. It was of the Skullfork Covered bridge from ohio. I cut it in 9 hours and 40 minutes in one pass. I'll see if i can find pictures of it here this week and post it.
When I etch into acrylic I have a small air line that I blow a constant flow of air on the tip of the cutter. It not only helps cool the tip but also blows the chips away so it won't melt to the tool or material. I also have the air directed in the same direction as the pickup for my dustcollecter so I have virtually no mess.
Hope this helps.
Don
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I finally found sometime to dig out that old covered bridge lithophane. As I dusted this piece off, I can see that the stepover wasn't as I stated before. It appears to be about a .025" - .030" and it looks very grainy when viewed up close. The light box is an old lightbox that a exhibit company was tossing out, As you can see it, the lighting is terrible as the hotspots of the fluorescents lights showing through. The inside of the box is a brushed aluminumn and I think the bulbs are to close to the lithophane ( approx 1" ).
And I need to say that this was made prior to the VCWizard and VCPhoto.
The lithophanes I've made since are much nicer looking and much easier to make.
Don
And I need to say that this was made prior to the VCWizard and VCPhoto.
The lithophanes I've made since are much nicer looking and much easier to make.
Don
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Hello Don.RoutnAbout wrote:I finally found sometime to dig out that old covered bridge lithophane. As I dusted this piece off, I can see that the stepover wasn't as I stated before. It appears to be about a .025" - .030" and it looks very grainy when viewed up close. The light box is an old lightbox that a exhibit company was tossing out, As you can see it, the lighting is terrible as the hotspots of the fluorescents lights showing through. The inside of the box is a brushed aluminumn and I think the bulbs are to close to the lithophane ( approx 1" ).
Don
Have you tried fitting a defuser between the lights and the lithophane ?
This can be a prick of a job to get right but should reduce the bright spots.
Nice to see your work.
Regards
Bart