This could be Paradise
This could be Paradise
Ok, I have finally succumbed to the lure of making my version of Michael Tyler's "Paradise Box" albeit in MDF.
As you can see (from the images below) the carve of the front and rear panels turned out better than expected. I don't wish to waste good timber on this attempt as I convert all measurements to metric and adapt the tooling (bits and settings) to what I have available.
That's not to say that I don't want to give this a good shot, I do, but I'm unsure how to finish this piece given the material.
What options are open to me in this regard
Thanks in advance for any help offered which is always appreciated
Regards
C
As you can see (from the images below) the carve of the front and rear panels turned out better than expected. I don't wish to waste good timber on this attempt as I convert all measurements to metric and adapt the tooling (bits and settings) to what I have available.
That's not to say that I don't want to give this a good shot, I do, but I'm unsure how to finish this piece given the material.
What options are open to me in this regard
Thanks in advance for any help offered which is always appreciated
Regards
C
- highpockets
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Re: This could be Paradise
You might try painting it using the technique Michael used in the Autumn Fall Wreath Project of the Month....
John
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Re: This could be Paradise
I'll give that a lookoverhighpockets wrote:You might try painting it using the technique Michael used in the Autumn Fall Wreath Project of the Month....
Thanks, John
- TReischl
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Re: This could be Paradise
A good place to start finishing mdf is with shellac to seal up the open pores.
Another technique (that would not work well on this project because of all the detail) is to use spackling compound on all the cuts then lightly sand. That provides a glass smooth surface.
I have had good results with the shellac followed by either gel stain or paint. I have a tool cabinet with lots of little drawers on my back bench, most people think it is made of cherry.
Another technique (that would not work well on this project because of all the detail) is to use spackling compound on all the cuts then lightly sand. That provides a glass smooth surface.
I have had good results with the shellac followed by either gel stain or paint. I have a tool cabinet with lots of little drawers on my back bench, most people think it is made of cherry.
"If you see a good fight, get in it." Dr. Vernon Johns
- martin54
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Re: This could be Paradise
The software will convert it all to metric for you so there is no chance of you making any mistakes. Just open the file & then select the set up icon, tick the box for mm & you will see all the figures change. Once you click on OK the screen will change & you will get a massage saying that all toolpaths need to be recalculated. Click OK to recalculate all toolpaths & then just go to the toolpath page, select each toolpath in turn & change the tool used to what ever metric version you have,
Re: This could be Paradise
Thank you for all the assistance guys....
I still have to select my tools and speeds though as obviously they would be different from the OP's setup. But it's looking fine and I would love to make this from proper wood.
One slight query (I may have overlooked a step in the .pdf)
It concerns the front slot at the top where the front inserts into the rebate there's a slight anomaly (see image) was I meant to do something about this or is it natural? Regards
C
YES, Martin, I've done all that and it's working out OK thus far (only the lid to make)martin54 wrote:The software will convert it all to metric for you so there is no chance of you making any mistakes. Just open the file & then select the set up icon, tick the box for mm & you will see all the figures change. Once you click on OK the screen will change & you will get a massage saying that all toolpaths need to be recalculated. Click OK to recalculate all toolpaths & then just go to the toolpath page, select each toolpath in turn & change the tool used to what ever metric version you have,
I still have to select my tools and speeds though as obviously they would be different from the OP's setup. But it's looking fine and I would love to make this from proper wood.
One slight query (I may have overlooked a step in the .pdf)
It concerns the front slot at the top where the front inserts into the rebate there's a slight anomaly (see image) was I meant to do something about this or is it natural? Regards
C
- SteveNelson46
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Re: This could be Paradise
Shorten the rectangle that is used for the chamfer on the front to about 10.5". Then you can use a hand chisel to square up the mortise corner on the side panels. You might want to do the same on the front edge of the top so it will match.
Another alternative would be to use a .25" point round over on the top edge of the front and on the front edge of the top.
Another alternative would be to use a .25" point round over on the top edge of the front and on the front edge of the top.
Steve
- mtylerfl
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Re: This could be Paradise
That’s a good Tip, Steve.
Good job on your project, C. I agree to seal it with shellac before applying final finish. MDF is pretty much “the devil” for drinking up finishes on the edges and areas that have been carved (exposing the soft core).
I would seal two or three times with 50/50 mix of Bulls Eye SealCoat and Denatured alcohol, then follow with light sanding and a coat of full-strength SealCoat (you probably know SealCoat is a 2lb cut of Clear de-waxed shellac).
Depending on what the final finish will be, I may choose to apply a primer or even some spray clear coat before the final finish is applied.
Good job on your project, C. I agree to seal it with shellac before applying final finish. MDF is pretty much “the devil” for drinking up finishes on the edges and areas that have been carved (exposing the soft core).
I would seal two or three times with 50/50 mix of Bulls Eye SealCoat and Denatured alcohol, then follow with light sanding and a coat of full-strength SealCoat (you probably know SealCoat is a 2lb cut of Clear de-waxed shellac).
Depending on what the final finish will be, I may choose to apply a primer or even some spray clear coat before the final finish is applied.
Michael Tyler
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Re: This could be Paradise
Yep! all sounds logical to me guys, I will just fill that gap this time around as I will more than likely be painting it, so it wont matter all that much.
On the next attempt will I will foreshorten the chamfer as advised.
Thank you for all your assistance. its always appreciated
Regards
C
On the next attempt will I will foreshorten the chamfer as advised.
Thank you for all your assistance. its always appreciated
Regards
C
- mtylerfl
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Re: This could be Paradise
Here’s a link to a MDF project of the month. Possible finishing idea that you may want to consider:
https://www.vectric.com/vectric-communi ... irrorFrame
https://www.vectric.com/vectric-communi ... irrorFrame
Michael Tyler
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- martin54
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Re: This could be Paradise
I don't cut that chamfer on the front panel any more, just leave them with a square edge, don't think it makes a great deal of difference to the look & means it makes things a little easier. I set magnets in the top edge of the front panel & lid to keep them shut & the chamfer made it more difficult to do that
Oh & if I am linning them I put a strip of felt along that top edge
Oh & if I am linning them I put a strip of felt along that top edge
Re: This could be Paradise
Thank You, Michael.mtylerfl wrote:Here’s a link to a MDF project of the month. Possible finishing idea that you may want to consider:
https://www.vectric.com/vectric-communi ... irrorFrame
Another feasible solutionmartin54 wrote:I don't cut that chamfer on the front panel any more, just leave them with a square edge, don't think it makes a great deal of difference to the look & means it makes things a little easier. I set magnets in the top edge of the front panel & lid to keep them shut & the chamfer made it more difficult to do that
Oh & if I am linning them I put a strip of felt along that top edge
Thank you, Martin.