dakotablue wrote:thanks for the info. Thats what I am needing to do. Going from a tenoning jig on the table saw is quite a jump. Just to complicate things, is it possible to cut multiple tenons on the same board?? Im also needing to do some through wedged tenons. The wedges are dead easy, maybe not so with multiple tenons.
4DThinker wrote:I frequently cut tenons and other joinery details for my students. For tenons I usually start with a climb cut profile ON the line using the perimeter of the board. This sheers the end grain fibers cleanly and leaves a clean shoulder edge. Pocketing is the easiest way to remove the end areas, followed by a conventional profile pass outside the tenon perimeter vector.
Wayne Locke wrote:The strength is determined by the weakest part and a1/4” wide tenon is not that strong. A 1/4” tenon in a 3/4” board is too weak. The tenons should be sized to half the thickness as should the mortises in the same sized board. This gives you two 3/16” mortise sides for a total of 3/8” the same as the tenon.
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