octagonal plate 2
- martin54
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octagonal plate 2
Plate 2 didn't go quite as planned, one thing I am always saying to people is learn to trust the toolpath preview but I have realised that although I always have a general look to check everything is OK I could in fact be making more use of it. Plate 2 is a good example, I originally selected the Celtic Cross from the standard clipart supplied with the software. Sized it & then used the embossing tool exactly the same as I had done with the first plate.
Roughing cut went fine but when the finish cut started on the cross it was clear that there wasn't really any surface height to the model or none that could be seen by eye. The finish cut was going to take hours & I felt that it was really a waste of time carrying on as it was. If I had moused over the toolpath preview rather than just having a quick look I would have realised this earlier
Good thing about this sort of project is that it is easy enough to correct, quick pocket to remove the base of the cross & then add a vcarve instead of a 3d model
I may still use the celtic cross model but instead of cutting it all as a 3d model I will make it a combination of 3D model & Vcarving, just need to find time to sit down & draw some suitable vectors to use
Still need to know more about finishing though, when you have 3D models how do you go about sanding them ?
Roughing cut went fine but when the finish cut started on the cross it was clear that there wasn't really any surface height to the model or none that could be seen by eye. The finish cut was going to take hours & I felt that it was really a waste of time carrying on as it was. If I had moused over the toolpath preview rather than just having a quick look I would have realised this earlier
Good thing about this sort of project is that it is easy enough to correct, quick pocket to remove the base of the cross & then add a vcarve instead of a 3d model
I may still use the celtic cross model but instead of cutting it all as a 3d model I will make it a combination of 3D model & Vcarving, just need to find time to sit down & draw some suitable vectors to use
Still need to know more about finishing though, when you have 3D models how do you go about sanding them ?
- Leo
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Re: octagonal plate 2
Craftsmanship is not necessarily the ability to do it right the first time, but the ability to save, recover and still come out smelling like a rose.
No firewood this time.
Awesome
No firewood this time.
Awesome
Imagine the Possibilities of a Creative mind, combined with the functionality of CNC
- martin54
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Re: octagonal plate 2
Haha, I don't know about me smelling like a rose but there was definitely no fire wood this time
I am going to wait until I get a few of these done before I apply the resin, hopefully there won't be much waste doing it that way. Think I remember reading that pot life was about 20 mins so plenty of time to do a few at a time
I am going to wait until I get a few of these done before I apply the resin, hopefully there won't be much waste doing it that way. Think I remember reading that pot life was about 20 mins so plenty of time to do a few at a time
- dwilli9013
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- Mark's Wood Chips
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Re: octagonal plate 2
Man, that's beautiful work!
Mark
Mark
- martin54
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Re: octagonal plate 2
So plate 3 has been started, this one has 12 sides & I have increased the depth of the dish to allow a full height model rather than using the embossing tool to reduce the height of the model. Only cut the top so far but it cut so well that I couldn't wait for the back to cut before posting
It's cut from a piece of Elm & will actually be plate 3 & 4 because I will get another one along side the one that is cut. Haven't done any cleaning up what so ever, not even brushed it with the toothbrush which is how I normally remove the loose fuzzies. Hoping the other one cuts as well. This plate is a little smaller than the other two, it's only about 8" across & the model in the dish is 4" wide, finishing cut with a 1.5mm tapered ball nose. As with the other plates I will fill in the dish to above the height of the model with Glasscast Resin.
As for posting when finished well this is the easy bit, my finishing skills are seriously lacking but if they turn out OK once I have finished them then I will post in the Gallery
It's cut from a piece of Elm & will actually be plate 3 & 4 because I will get another one along side the one that is cut. Haven't done any cleaning up what so ever, not even brushed it with the toothbrush which is how I normally remove the loose fuzzies. Hoping the other one cuts as well. This plate is a little smaller than the other two, it's only about 8" across & the model in the dish is 4" wide, finishing cut with a 1.5mm tapered ball nose. As with the other plates I will fill in the dish to above the height of the model with Glasscast Resin.
As for posting when finished well this is the easy bit, my finishing skills are seriously lacking but if they turn out OK once I have finished them then I will post in the Gallery
- scottp55
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Re: octagonal plate 2
REALLY clean cut Martin!
I can see why you're excited:)
scott
I can see why you're excited:)
scott
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
- martin54
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Re: octagonal plate 2
Unfortunately Elm seems to be a bit inconsistent when it comes to machining Scott, sometimes it's like this with little or no cleaning up & other times it's littered with fuzzies & stringy bits that make it almost impossible to clean up. I expect there will be a way to tell before you try machining it but I haven't found it yet
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Re: octagonal plate 2
I have some woods that behave that way. That's when those little 3m sanding discs Michael has in his projects come in handy. Your plates look great.
- scottp55
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Re: octagonal plate 2
Martin,
Looks like you lucked into a piece of either quartersawn, or MORE likely a piece of flatsawn lumber from close to the center of tree. You probably already know that if the growth rings when looking at the end of the stock are vertical(or close)... the results are usually cleaner, and less likely to twist/warp.
Clear Vertical Grain used to be a Grade in some woods here, but now you have to pay for quartersawn, or search the piles for center of the tree flatsawn....good to know when scavenging a stores shorts, or searching for slabs for your stash:)
When I do those little Sugar Maple kid's blocks for things like the little Owls, I always use the end grain face for that reason.
I also look for tight/uniform growth ring patterns.
Can't Quite tell...did you use Raster against the grain, or offset for you're finishing toolpath?
Think you better make a very small one for testing the resin/finish combo:)
Be a shame to ruin one of these!
NICE work!!
scott
Looks like you lucked into a piece of either quartersawn, or MORE likely a piece of flatsawn lumber from close to the center of tree. You probably already know that if the growth rings when looking at the end of the stock are vertical(or close)... the results are usually cleaner, and less likely to twist/warp.
Clear Vertical Grain used to be a Grade in some woods here, but now you have to pay for quartersawn, or search the piles for center of the tree flatsawn....good to know when scavenging a stores shorts, or searching for slabs for your stash:)
When I do those little Sugar Maple kid's blocks for things like the little Owls, I always use the end grain face for that reason.
I also look for tight/uniform growth ring patterns.
Can't Quite tell...did you use Raster against the grain, or offset for you're finishing toolpath?
Think you better make a very small one for testing the resin/finish combo:)
Be a shame to ruin one of these!
NICE work!!
scott
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
- TReischl
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Re: octagonal plate 2
Nicely done Martin!
I have been busy with all sorts of remodeling projects and have not been in my shop for quite some time. You are making me all itchy to get back in there! Anything has to be better than replacing flooring, anything..... even fuzzies!
I have been busy with all sorts of remodeling projects and have not been in my shop for quite some time. You are making me all itchy to get back in there! Anything has to be better than replacing flooring, anything..... even fuzzies!
"If you see a good fight, get in it." Dr. Vernon Johns
- martin54
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Re: octagonal plate 2
Got some fuzzies on the one I have just cut Ted, going to take me weeks of sanding to get rid of them all
Scott, no it's raster along the grain although the grain is not particularly straight
Cut the top of the 4th plate & then flipped the board over to machine the 2 backs, cut them out on the bandsaw rather than running a profile cut. Have increased the depth of the dish on the 4th one as I said I might so plate 4 is almost a soup bowl
Both have had a quick sand just to get the finishing process started, more sanding to do & then they will be sealed & the models in the dishes covered with Resin.
I might actually use water clear polyester resin for these as it's a lot cheaper than the Glasscast which I know works well from the other plate I used it on. Water clear polyester should give me just as good an idea how these will look & although it isn't as hard as the Glasscast that won't matter for this experiment.
Scott, no it's raster along the grain although the grain is not particularly straight
Cut the top of the 4th plate & then flipped the board over to machine the 2 backs, cut them out on the bandsaw rather than running a profile cut. Have increased the depth of the dish on the 4th one as I said I might so plate 4 is almost a soup bowl
Both have had a quick sand just to get the finishing process started, more sanding to do & then they will be sealed & the models in the dishes covered with Resin.
I might actually use water clear polyester resin for these as it's a lot cheaper than the Glasscast which I know works well from the other plate I used it on. Water clear polyester should give me just as good an idea how these will look & although it isn't as hard as the Glasscast that won't matter for this experiment.
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Re: octagonal plate 2
Martin,
You might want to have a look at these: I use them in a dremel they do a good job clearing the fuzzies saves a lot of hand work used lightly they don't damage your work.
Phill
You might want to have a look at these: I use them in a dremel they do a good job clearing the fuzzies saves a lot of hand work used lightly they don't damage your work.
Phill
A person who works with his hands, his brain and his heart is an artist"
—Louis Nizer
—Louis Nizer
- dwilli9013
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Re: octagonal plate 2
Nice Martin. I am anxious to see how the Poly works for you. Are you giving these away as gifts or selling them?
Very Nice work either way. Thanks for sharing with us.
Very Nice work either way. Thanks for sharing with us.
D-Dub
Dwayne
Dwilli
Dwayne
Dwilli
- martin54
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Re: octagonal plate 2
Thanks Phill, I do actually use those along with a whole range of other dremel & hand help tools but I am always on the lookout for ways to make sanding a bit easier. My first line of attack is normally a toothbrush for small models & a stiff bristled shoe brush for larger models, they seem to get rid of most of the very loose fuzziesphill05 wrote:Martin,
You might want to have a look at these: I use them in a dremel they do a good job clearing the fuzzies saves a lot of hand work used lightly they don't damage your work.
Phill
Have a look at my facebook page Dwayne, polly didn't work out well at all, no plans for these just now, did them as an experiment but they will probably end up being used as a present for somethingdwilli9013 wrote:Nice Martin. I am anxious to see how the Poly works for you. Are you giving these away as gifts or selling them?
Very Nice work either way. Thanks for sharing with us.