Axe Handle-propeller first 2 sided machining

[Ring Shake]

I drew an axe handle in Rhino and imported it into Aspire to practise 2 sided machining. I am quite happy with the results. I used scrap spruce framing lumber for testing with a relatively coarse toolpath using a 1/2" rounded cutter. The propeller was made from white pine and I got the model from Grabcad and scaled it to maximise size to fit the piece of wood.

[mtylerfl]

Looks really good!

[Ring Shake]

I added the tabs in modeling. I thought there was a feature for that in the tutorials but perhaps it was in Cut 3D. Also note the cutting resolution of the propeller! I did have the resolution set to the highest but perhaps I have to modify the source model.

[Ring Shake]

I surfaced the propeller blank to 1mm thicker than the model and centered it for machining. I still ended up being off a very minute bit on my set-up. Also on both projects there was a bit of offset along the length after the models were flipped. I will have to run a test job to test if its consistently the same, perhaps it could be compensated for on critical jobs.

[sseale]

Like the experimentation with 2 sided machining with 3d objects.
Was the slight length offset visible only in the physical cut parts or did you see it in the software model also?
I like this 'floating model' method where the part sits within the depth of the machined blank.
Scott

[RIKARD Designs]

Very Nice job on the projects. I haven't seen anyone post a technique that I came up with to avoid those pesky little tabs with two sided machining, but I don't get on the forum a lot so maybe I missed a posting.

I designed and made a sword or I should say the blade to it thus far. and I shouldn't have made it out of Oak, but I had a board that fit the project so I went for it.

I was originally thinking I would have to use tabs, but I really didn't want to as it would take some tedious work on removing them from a thin sword blade especially being made out of oak.

So here is the trick. You machine the one side and then cover it with regular masking tape. Make sure you cover your carved piece a long with the surrounding support/scrap area, and then fill in the void with Great Stuff expanding insulating foam sealant. Once it dry's cut the excess dried foam off with a long blade so you don't have any excess foam interfering with it laying flat when you flip it over to machine the other side.

Machine your second side and eureka...You have just done a two sided machining with no pesky tabs. Peel away the tape and enjoy a perfect item.

[mtylerfl]

That's an interesting technique and thank you for sharing. I can't help thinking that it seems to be much more trouble (and takes longer) than sanding off a few tabs, though!

[Frunple]

That's an interesting technique and thank you for sharing. I can't help thinking that it seems to be much more trouble (and takes longer) than sanding off a few tabs, though!

I agree. First thing I thought when great stuff was mentioned... a lot of work! Unnecessarily.
But everyone has their ways.

[RIKARD Designs]

Thanks for the feed back...Yes you are absolutely right! I meant to add near the end that this only should be considered when you have a situation like the sword blade coming to a very thin edge, or tabs would be better, and yes tabs could still be done on a sword blade. I guess I never looked at it from a time perspective. I just had the thought and was curious if it would stay in place, which it did. I don't do a lot of 3D work, and was unsure if I would have to use a lot of tabs to give it proper support, and it seem like the foam was a better alternative for this particular project.

The next thing I want to try that I seen on Youtube the other day is masking tape and Cyanoacrylate glue for hold down