Stool Plans (Russell Crawford's)

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rscrawford
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Re: Stool Plans (Russell Crawford's)

Post by rscrawford »

Very nice! Great jig. Looks like you got nice fitting joints as well.
Russell Crawford
http://www.cherryleaf-rustle.com

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Re: Stool Plans (Russell Crawford's)

Post by antennasDIY »

What does the jig do? You have to machine all four sides do you not and it assists in that?

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Re: Stool Plans (Russell Crawford's)

Post by rscrawford »

Just machine two sides. The jig just holds them in position for two sided machining (has to line up exactly when you cut the second side).

The jig is not needed (the plans machine one leg at a time) but it does make it quicker to do all 4 legs at once, because you don't have to babysit the machine as much.
Russell Crawford
http://www.cherryleaf-rustle.com

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Re: Stool Plans (Russell Crawford's)

Post by antennasDIY »

Ah OK got ya. I hope to get the plans soon and try it for myself soon!!

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Re: Stool Plans (Russell Crawford's)

Post by rscrawford »

I have the plans for V-carve now as well, for those who do not have Aspire.
Russell Crawford
http://www.cherryleaf-rustle.com

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Re: Stool Plans (Russell Crawford's)

Post by gordread »

russel, on the four leg files you have used a form tool to do some of the profiling, rather than 3d, great plan, but what form tool did you use?

I'm working on my legs now. :)

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Re: Stool Plans (Russell Crawford's)

Post by rscrawford »

Here is a link to the plunge round bit I use (3/8" roundover) I use the 1/2" shank because it gives a nicer cut (no chatter). This same bit is used on the kitchen stool plans. Makes the cuts WAY faster, with less sanding after. But means more tool changes.

You can use the same bit on the stool top (the toolpaths are already set up for this tool).

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.a ... 9435,46173
16j2404bh.jpg
Russell Crawford
http://www.cherryleaf-rustle.com

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Re: Stool Plans (Russell Crawford's)

Post by rscrawford »

The jig for cutting 4 legs at once is actually very simple, and is set into the spoil board. It is nice to use, because you can surface your spoil board as usual without affecting the jig (until the spoil board becomes too thin, and then you just replace the spoil board and cut a new pocket and glue a new jig in place.

The T-bolts simply set into the slot and turn 90 degrees to lock them in place, and the 3/8" holes are used to index the leg blanks with dowels.
FullSizeRender 2.jpg
FullSizeRender 2 copy.jpg
This is the latest stool I made a couple weeks ago. I'm using the new jig rather than my complex aluminum jig now, because there is absolutely no set-up. I can still use my spoil board for sheet goods, but I just insert the t-bolts and cut my legs. Sorry for the poor quality picture, I tried taking a picture in the near dark with my iPhone flash.
FullSizeRender 13.jpg
Russell Crawford
http://www.cherryleaf-rustle.com

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Re: Stool Plans (Russell Crawford's)

Post by antennasDIY »

Man that inlay on the Lego man is insane. I meant to ask you if you think someone with much less woodworking experience can make these stools.
The only experience I have is because I built a cnc 2 years ago so have been finishing stuff that comes off of it.
I want to make these stools but wonder if I can do it.
Plus the jig for the legs. So you just drill into your spoil board and its done. The big layout is in the plans?
Thanks so much.

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Re: Stool Plans (Russell Crawford's)

Post by rscrawford »

For the Vanity stools, you don't really need much woodworking experience. The kitchen stools are quite a bit more complex, and the rocking chairs are very complex.

All the files for the jig are included in the plans. You basically cut the jig out in hard maple (just need a 3/4" piece of maple 10" x 4") and then glue it upside down into two pockets cut into your spoilboard. Very simple to use. But you don't have to use the jig; there are files included for cutting the legs one at a time with just dowel holes drilled into the spoilboard to index for 2 sided cuts.

You do have to prepare the blanks for the stool tops (needs to be flat and exact thickness) and the legs (needs to be out of rough 8/4 stock and two sides must be flat and exactly parallel).
Russell Crawford
http://www.cherryleaf-rustle.com

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Re: Stool Plans (Russell Crawford's)

Post by antennasDIY »

Thanks Russell. Gee I forgot there were different stool plans! But that sounds good. I would love to make some for sure.
I will look on your website for payment options.
Thanks!!

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Re: Stool Plans (Russell Crawford's)

Post by gordread »

Thanks Russel, I'm going to have to head in to lee valley, and I was just there yesterday... oh darn... lol

Yeah, the full 3D carve takes about 2 1/2 hours on my machine. even with an extra tool change, using the roundover bit will save a TON or time.

for the jig, you don't have to build it into your spoilboard, I don't have a MDF spoilboard, so I built a completely separate jig (using Russels plans) on a 24x12 inch piece of MDF, it works great.

Gordon

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Re: Stool Plans (Russell Crawford's)

Post by antennasDIY »

Someone sent me a private message. I cannot iew it. This board is stupid that way.

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rscrawford
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Re: Stool Plans (Russell Crawford's)

Post by rscrawford »

Send me an email rscrawford@xplornet.ca since you cannot access your private messages.
Russell Crawford
http://www.cherryleaf-rustle.com

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Re: Stool Plans (Russell Crawford's)

Post by gordread »

Well, I finally finished a stool. It was a couple of weeks ago, but I am now posting the pics.

Thank you Russel for the plans, this turned out really well.

The wood is simply some pine 2x4s that I had. I really like how the blue in some of the wood comes out.
Pine Wood Stool.jpg
Pine Wood Stool Signature.jpg
I now have three more in the process of being built. It will be great to have set of four stools.

Gordon

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