If you want to finish the teeth you can use polymerized mineral oil (teak, Tung, olive, etc.). Oils soak into the wood and leaves it silky smooth and slick. WARNING: DO NOT USE ANYTHING THAT SAYS TUNG OIL FINISH, THERE IS NO TUNG OIL, ONLY THINNED-STICKY-VARNISH, including Formby's and Minwax. For best results thoroughly soak the wood, let stand for 5 to 10 minutes then wipe off the excess. NOTE: I drench toy cars and trucks with Polymerized Tung oil (sometimes olive oil) and the wheels never stick to the axles even though there is no way to wipe off the excess.
When it's all finished if you want really slick teeth use DynaGlide; a high pressure wax based cleaner/lubricant product designed for saw blades, tables, joiners, shaper tables, and gun cleaner; it does not attract dirt or moisture.
Another method for cutting is to use a ball nose bit which makes a feathered edge cut, and a spoil-board (you will need to cut deeper to make the ball nose cut all the way through).
Use the smallest bit that will cut all the way through the wood, the downside is that small bits tend to follow the grain more than larger bits leaving a slightly rougher cut.
Slow down your feed rate.
You can use a wood hardener or mineral oil finish (fully dry) first to stabilize the wood.
Eliminate tabs, use double sided tape.
Use shallow cuts; make the first profile cuts offset outwards around 0.005", then make the last cut full depth in one pass inset 0.005"
You will get old if you live long enough!