Dresser Box
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- Vectric Wizard
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Dresser Box
One more little box.. with cherry piano hinge, 1-1/2" deep inside
Now I need to order some 1/16" tapered ball nose bits for better detail if I'm going to play with small 3D models
Now I need to order some 1/16" tapered ball nose bits for better detail if I'm going to play with small 3D models
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- Vectric Wizard
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Re: Dresser Box
very nice!
Bob
Bob
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Re: Dresser Box
I like the hinge too! The box is beautiful and the hinge really draws your attention. I'm guessing it was cut as separate pieces. I'm impressed.
Rick
Shark HD 2.0
Shark HD 2.0
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Re: Dresser Box
Cool box - I like it and a great hinge.
- Bill
- Bill
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Re: Dresser Box
Love the box! Especially like that hinge! How is it attached?
Mike
Mike
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Re: Dresser Box
Thanks Guys,
Here is .CRV for hinge that utilizes material better the last one I posted. *Fit as many as you wish. (tool-paths for (1) I used)
Material 6x6x.5, orient grain with length, 1/8" downcut bit ( use shallow peck passes or change to upcut or drill bit). XY datum=center
Cuts through material .020
This hinge fits 1/2" thick top (top edge of hinge flush with top edge of top)
To assemble, slide all leaf pcs. on 1/8" steel pin (long drill bit works good) and attach the two end leafs (to top first) with medium gel CA adhesive, once the ends are attached the rest are easy. I use the med. gel CA and hold down 30 sec.
Rough up dense wood like hard maple.
Remove steel pin and replace with 1/8"sanded bamboo skewer. These hinges are surprisingly strong but I would use them on non-critical application only and not a heavy or overhead item for safety.
Here is .CRV for hinge that utilizes material better the last one I posted. *Fit as many as you wish. (tool-paths for (1) I used)
Material 6x6x.5, orient grain with length, 1/8" downcut bit ( use shallow peck passes or change to upcut or drill bit). XY datum=center
Cuts through material .020
This hinge fits 1/2" thick top (top edge of hinge flush with top edge of top)
To assemble, slide all leaf pcs. on 1/8" steel pin (long drill bit works good) and attach the two end leafs (to top first) with medium gel CA adhesive, once the ends are attached the rest are easy. I use the med. gel CA and hold down 30 sec.
Rough up dense wood like hard maple.
Remove steel pin and replace with 1/8"sanded bamboo skewer. These hinges are surprisingly strong but I would use them on non-critical application only and not a heavy or overhead item for safety.
- Attachments
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- New.crv hinge.crv
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- gordread
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Re: Dresser Box
Thank you for the hinge, I'm going to try it out.
Gordon
Gordon
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Re: Dresser Box
gordread,
And anyone, if you use my .CRV
You really should use up-cut bit for peck drilling hole (especially if HSS) and then change to down-cut for profile because of the tiny tab.
But a up-cut may work for all.
Pecking with down-cut is not really a good idea. ( I used old carbide and it did fine,at slower speed)
And anyone, if you use my .CRV
You really should use up-cut bit for peck drilling hole (especially if HSS) and then change to down-cut for profile because of the tiny tab.
But a up-cut may work for all.
Pecking with down-cut is not really a good idea. ( I used old carbide and it did fine,at slower speed)
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Re: Dresser Box
I have an idea for a box and these will work great for the hinge. I'd tried making hinges like this in the past but mine had a long side for the lid. I'd never thought of making them this way. Thanks for making the file available. It's much appreciated.
Rick
Shark HD 2.0
Shark HD 2.0
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Re: Dresser Box
Thank you for the the post and the file.
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Re: Dresser Box
OK Guys,
I just tried cutting a set in bloodwood entirely with an up-cut bit.
It's a no go, the top was fuzzed up and the little tabs let loose on about half (pretty much useless)
I would say you need up-cut bit for holes then switch to down-cut on profile
The down-cut leaves the top clean and the spoilboard protects the bottom and the small tabs hold fine
*Also, please note! these hinges installed the way I did only allow a little over 200 deg. of movement, which is good for a shallow box, so on a tall box the top will need a stop of some sort
I just tried cutting a set in bloodwood entirely with an up-cut bit.
It's a no go, the top was fuzzed up and the little tabs let loose on about half (pretty much useless)
I would say you need up-cut bit for holes then switch to down-cut on profile
The down-cut leaves the top clean and the spoilboard protects the bottom and the small tabs hold fine
*Also, please note! these hinges installed the way I did only allow a little over 200 deg. of movement, which is good for a shallow box, so on a tall box the top will need a stop of some sort
Re: Dresser Box
Nice box Glenn.
You pulled it all together quite nicely.
Love the overall shape too :)
Bamboo skewers can be chucked in a drill and either reduced by spinning them on a piece of sandpaper or just spun into the hinge holes if the fit is too tight. I don't know what the quality control guys who make these are spec'ing them to. They do make nice hinge pins as they are really springy.
Good job,
Steve
You pulled it all together quite nicely.
Love the overall shape too :)
Bamboo skewers can be chucked in a drill and either reduced by spinning them on a piece of sandpaper or just spun into the hinge holes if the fit is too tight. I don't know what the quality control guys who make these are spec'ing them to. They do make nice hinge pins as they are really springy.
Good job,
Steve
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Re: Dresser Box
Thanks Glenn!
Paul Rowntree
WarpDriver, StandingWave, Topo and gadgets available at PaulRowntree.weebly.com
WarpDriver, StandingWave, Topo and gadgets available at PaulRowntree.weebly.com
- llwood
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Re: Dresser Box
That's a beautiful box with a great hinge design. I have a question about the deer and tree carving on the lid. Was that done with VCarve Pro, Aspire, or something else?
Thanks,
--Andy
Thanks,
--Andy