My Clock
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- Vectric Craftsman
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My Clock
Made this clock recently just to see if I could do it all by myself. Figured out the gear ratios I wanted and drew them in DXF format imported to V-Carve 6.5.
Clock works fine but not very practical as it is 7 feet 6 inches tall, only runs for 1 hour between windings and the tick-tock is more like a clunk-clunk.
The numbers were burned by my wife.
I am working on a much smaller and improved design.
Ray
Clock works fine but not very practical as it is 7 feet 6 inches tall, only runs for 1 hour between windings and the tick-tock is more like a clunk-clunk.
The numbers were burned by my wife.
I am working on a much smaller and improved design.
Ray
- Leo
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Re: My Clock
WWOOWW
So cool
So cool
Imagine the Possibilities of a Creative mind, combined with the functionality of CNC
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- Vectric Craftsman
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Re: My Clock
thanks Leo
I should have the smaller version ready in a couple of days. I will post the files also.
Ray
I should have the smaller version ready in a couple of days. I will post the files also.
Ray
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Re: My Clock
This has me wanting to try clock making ... have wanted to try since watching the A&E movie 'Longitude'.
Paul Rowntree
WarpDriver, StandingWave, Topo and gadgets available at PaulRowntree.weebly.com
WarpDriver, StandingWave, Topo and gadgets available at PaulRowntree.weebly.com
- gordread
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Re: My Clock
That's fantastic. Great work.
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Re: My Clock
This is clock number 2.
It measures 47 inches tall and was mounted to a steel plate 1 1/2" wide and 28" long. The parts were cut from a 13" X 36" piece of 0.210 cherry plywood. I used 1/4" bolts for the shafts and made two mounting brackets to move the plate out for access to the back. This could be mounted inside an enclosure for a grandfather clock movement. The chain is for rewinding the clock. It runs 2 hours on a winding, twice as long as my first try but by doubling the weight and adding two more pulleys it would run four hours per winding.
I will include the crv file for anyone who would like to have a go at it. Feel free to use it any way you like all designed by me. I put all the gears in a straight line but they don't have to be. They could be arranged in an arc or all bunched up around the hour gear to save about 12 inches in height.
It is all 2D tool paths so it if anyone wants just the DXF files for Cut 2D give a shout.
Have fun
Ray
It measures 47 inches tall and was mounted to a steel plate 1 1/2" wide and 28" long. The parts were cut from a 13" X 36" piece of 0.210 cherry plywood. I used 1/4" bolts for the shafts and made two mounting brackets to move the plate out for access to the back. This could be mounted inside an enclosure for a grandfather clock movement. The chain is for rewinding the clock. It runs 2 hours on a winding, twice as long as my first try but by doubling the weight and adding two more pulleys it would run four hours per winding.
I will include the crv file for anyone who would like to have a go at it. Feel free to use it any way you like all designed by me. I put all the gears in a straight line but they don't have to be. They could be arranged in an arc or all bunched up around the hour gear to save about 12 inches in height.
It is all 2D tool paths so it if anyone wants just the DXF files for Cut 2D give a shout.
Have fun
Ray
- Ms Wolffie
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Re: My Clock
Thank you for the files, I would love to try them out.
How do you work out the "weight" of the weights and the length of the chain?
I saw another clock where he simply put lead shots into a plastic tube.
Cheers
Wolffie
How do you work out the "weight" of the weights and the length of the chain?
I saw another clock where he simply put lead shots into a plastic tube.
Cheers
Wolffie
Cheers
Wolffie
Whatshammacallit
Cut3D, VCarvePro 6.5, Aspire4, PhotoVCarve, Corel Graphics Suite X6
Wolffie
Whatshammacallit
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Re: My Clock
You are welcome Ms Wolffie
The weight of the weights is determined by several factors such as the friction of the mechanize, the diameter of the spool it is wrapped around, and the gear ratio from the winding spool to the star gear. Start off first with the smallest weight on a single rope that makes the clock work don't worry about the speed right now. The pendulum shaft should be longer than you think you will need and the pendulum weight lighter than you think you need. Without changing the main weight start raising or lowering the pendulum weight to speed up or slow down the speed of the clock. Through trial and error you will be able to determine just where you need to add or subtract weight or shorten or lengthen the pendulum arm.
If you loop the rope through a pulley on the main weight and bring it back up to the base the clock will run twice as long as before but you will need twice as much weight to make the clock run. Everything is a trade off and is different with each build. If you were able to mount the clock where the main weight could be lowered out a window of a high rise building then you would only have to wind it once a month. (just kidding)
The chain is used for winding the clock. Move the minute gear out of position and pull down on the right hand side of the chain. The ratchet mechanize will catch and hold the spool for each chain pull and wind up the rope.
Ray
The weight of the weights is determined by several factors such as the friction of the mechanize, the diameter of the spool it is wrapped around, and the gear ratio from the winding spool to the star gear. Start off first with the smallest weight on a single rope that makes the clock work don't worry about the speed right now. The pendulum shaft should be longer than you think you will need and the pendulum weight lighter than you think you need. Without changing the main weight start raising or lowering the pendulum weight to speed up or slow down the speed of the clock. Through trial and error you will be able to determine just where you need to add or subtract weight or shorten or lengthen the pendulum arm.
If you loop the rope through a pulley on the main weight and bring it back up to the base the clock will run twice as long as before but you will need twice as much weight to make the clock run. Everything is a trade off and is different with each build. If you were able to mount the clock where the main weight could be lowered out a window of a high rise building then you would only have to wind it once a month. (just kidding)
The chain is used for winding the clock. Move the minute gear out of position and pull down on the right hand side of the chain. The ratchet mechanize will catch and hold the spool for each chain pull and wind up the rope.
Ray
- bill_w
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Re: My Clock
Ray,
Very nice, well done looking forward to
the smaller version I do not have the height
for this one.
Excellent work.
Very nice, well done looking forward to
the smaller version I do not have the height
for this one.
Excellent work.
Computers-Yuk....I should junk it...It never does what it should do...only what I tell it.
- Leo
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Re: My Clock
It's really cool. This is certainly going to be on my list of to do's
thank you.
amazing that you "designed" it.
I cannot imagine what goes into that thought process.
thank you.
amazing that you "designed" it.
I cannot imagine what goes into that thought process.
Imagine the Possibilities of a Creative mind, combined with the functionality of CNC
- Leo
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Re: My Clock
Ray,
Do you have any assembly instructions.
The foot bone connects to the leg bone - then the leg bone connects to the hip bone -----
Do you have any assembly instructions.
The foot bone connects to the leg bone - then the leg bone connects to the hip bone -----
Imagine the Possibilities of a Creative mind, combined with the functionality of CNC
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Re: My Clock
Starting at the top of the clock the gear arrangement is as follows:
144 tooth hour gear is driven by a 24 tooth gear that is attached to a 48 tooth gear.
The 48 tooth gear is driven by another 24 tooth gear that is attached to a 80 tooth gear.
This 80 tooth gear is driven by another 80 tooth gear that is attached to the 150 tooth gear.
The 150 tooth gear is driven by a 20 tooth gear of the rope winder assembly.
The rope winder drives the 160 tooth ratchet gear.
The 160 tooth ratchet gear drives a 20 tooth gear that is attached to the 60 tooth star gear.
Last the escape lever.
Each assembly was glued together using a 1/4" bolt and nut of appropriate length for alignment and clamping force.
I would start the clock assembly with the winder as this will determine the placement of all the rest of the gears.
Picture 1157 shows the winder closeup.
On a 1/4 " bolt glue together the following.
1- 20 tooth gear
1- spacer from the cutouts of the star gear
The chain sprocket
The rope spool (Make this what ever length and diameter you like but remember this will determine the depth of the clock and also how much torque the rope weight will have. Mine is 1.125 in diameter and about 1" long)
1- another spacer from the cutouts of the star gear
1- 1" diameter spacer not shown for clearance to the ratchet gear
Finally the ratchet gear goes on paying close attention to the orientation. (see photo 1157) and glue all in place on the bolt.
This assembly turns the 160 tooth gear by engagement of the two metal spring loaded tangs attached to this gear. I made the tangs from 1/4" square steel but use whatever you like here just so they catch in the ratchet slots. After the glue is dry ream the winder assembly and 160 tooth sprocket center holes so they turn easily on the 1/4" bolt you are using for final mounting.
This will get you started but while writing this I realized how hard it is to convey information with just words. If there is enough interest I will make an assembly PDF of the second clock with more pictures and detail.
Have fun
Ray
144 tooth hour gear is driven by a 24 tooth gear that is attached to a 48 tooth gear.
The 48 tooth gear is driven by another 24 tooth gear that is attached to a 80 tooth gear.
This 80 tooth gear is driven by another 80 tooth gear that is attached to the 150 tooth gear.
The 150 tooth gear is driven by a 20 tooth gear of the rope winder assembly.
The rope winder drives the 160 tooth ratchet gear.
The 160 tooth ratchet gear drives a 20 tooth gear that is attached to the 60 tooth star gear.
Last the escape lever.
Each assembly was glued together using a 1/4" bolt and nut of appropriate length for alignment and clamping force.
I would start the clock assembly with the winder as this will determine the placement of all the rest of the gears.
Picture 1157 shows the winder closeup.
On a 1/4 " bolt glue together the following.
1- 20 tooth gear
1- spacer from the cutouts of the star gear
The chain sprocket
The rope spool (Make this what ever length and diameter you like but remember this will determine the depth of the clock and also how much torque the rope weight will have. Mine is 1.125 in diameter and about 1" long)
1- another spacer from the cutouts of the star gear
1- 1" diameter spacer not shown for clearance to the ratchet gear
Finally the ratchet gear goes on paying close attention to the orientation. (see photo 1157) and glue all in place on the bolt.
This assembly turns the 160 tooth gear by engagement of the two metal spring loaded tangs attached to this gear. I made the tangs from 1/4" square steel but use whatever you like here just so they catch in the ratchet slots. After the glue is dry ream the winder assembly and 160 tooth sprocket center holes so they turn easily on the 1/4" bolt you are using for final mounting.
This will get you started but while writing this I realized how hard it is to convey information with just words. If there is enough interest I will make an assembly PDF of the second clock with more pictures and detail.
Have fun
Ray
- zeeway
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Re: My Clock
Thanks, Ray. In my to-do pile.
Angie
Angie
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Re: My Clock
YES PLEASErdean33422 wrote:This will get you started but while writing this I realized how hard it is to convey information with just words. If there is enough interest I will make an assembly PDF of the second clock with more pictures and detail.
Cheers
Wolffie
Cheers
Wolffie
Whatshammacallit
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Wolffie
Whatshammacallit
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Re: My Clock
I am interested
Imagine the Possibilities of a Creative mind, combined with the functionality of CNC