How to machine Lithophanes with PhotoVCarve

[Tony Mac]

Hi Jason,

Chuck is right in saying you get much better results using a Ball nosed cutter and if you can
source Conical Tip Radiused Cutters these will ideal. This is because Small diameter parallel
ball nose cutters tend to be quite weak and prone to breaking, whereas an equivalent Tip radius
ball on a conical cutter is much stronger due to the extra strength of the conical shank.

The Tool Database in PhotoVCarve doesn't allow Conical Tip Radiused Cutters to be specified.
So the best approach is to select a standard Ball Nose cutter in the software and calculate the
toolpath. Then actually cut the piece using a Conical Tip Radius cutter that has the same tip
radius (ball) as used to calculate the toolpath.

I hope this makes sense?

I guess a pic would help,

Hope this helps,

Chuck - Excellent Lithophane example!

Tony

[js11110]

Does anyone have a good source for these conical radius cutters? Thanx in advance!


Jason

[drodda]

Does anyone have a good source for these conical radius cutters? Thanx in advance!


Jason

www.2linc.com

979-567-8867

This is where I get mine from.

Dave

[js11110]

Thanks for the link Dave, but I don't see any conical ballnose cutters? Or am I missing something?

Jason

[CRFultz]

Thanks for the link Dave, but I don't see any conical ballnose cutters? Or am I missing something?

Jason

Jason a conical tip cutter and a ball end cutter are not the same.
A conical tip is flat cut in the center to the tip and therefore stronger.
A ball cutter will be round at the tip with usually two cutting flutes.
The enclosed picture would be a good cutting tool for lithos.
the tip width is what you will enter in the tool database in place of the ball end diameter.
.04 is what i use and gives good results....
From 2linc the number would be C .1875 x 2.0 60° .040 S
This would be a 1/8th shank by 2 inchs in length with a 60 degree angle and the tip width is .04.
Hope this helps ya out....
Chuck

[js11110]

Ok, so now I'm confused. The cutter has a flat tip? It doesn't look like the one Tony posted 4 posts above? Also, on another note, I'm messing around with the program right now, and I noticed when looking at the numbers in the program that the cutter makes a pass, jumps up, goes to the beginning of the next line, jumps up, goes to the beginning of the next line, jumps up,etc. Is there a way to make the cutter stay down and do a "zig zag" instead of one line at a time? In my mind it takes twice as long to keep jumping up like that. I'm using the Mach 3 post if that helps.



Jason

[CRFultz]

Ok, so now I'm confused. The cutter has a flat tip? It doesn't look like the one Tony posted 4 posts above? Also, on another note, I'm messing around with the program right now, and I noticed when looking at the numbers in the program that the cutter makes a pass, jumps up, goes to the beginning of the next line, jumps up, goes to the beginning of the next line, jumps up,etc. Is there a way to make the cutter stay down and do a "zig zag" instead of one line at a time? In my mind it takes twice as long to keep jumping up like that. I'm using the Mach 3 post if that helps.



Jason

Jason,
i just looked at a PVC file and it does appear to restart the the next cut always from the same side....But if you run it through Mach 3 will know this and will cut it in a Zig zag fashion...at least mine does....as far has it jumping up, that is your rapid height.....
I set mine for.01 above the Z. Your settings in VCP are under the "TOOLPATHS" side.
The first icon that looks like a block of wood....there will be a place to enter rapid height....make sure you clear any obstacle's you may have on your machine bed....


As far has the info on cutters....maybe Tony or someone else can point you to a source for these...i use the ball end cutters. The one's that Dave buys will work (from 2linc)


Good Luck

Chuck

[Tony Mac]

Hi Gents,

These conical cutters are also referred to as - Tapered Ball Nose End Mills - and I've been trying to track down some suppliers. I've sent messages to the following suppliers and will let you know what comes back,

http://www.maford.com/
http://www.icscuttingtools.com/index1.html
http://www.cuttingtoolsource.com/
http://www.american-carbide.com/

PhotoVCarve was primarily developed for engraving grooves to represent a photograph and the cutter
has to be lifted off the material between each groove. As chuck said, the only way to limit this retract
height is to set the rapid clearance gap as small as possible.

Tony

[js11110]

Tony, thanks for looking in to suppliers for us. I wonder for a future verision if you and brian can look into making an "lithophane option" that makes the cutter stay down? It would cut the machining time down drastically. Don't know if its feasible, just a thought. I went to work earlier and borrowed a couple of .062 ball end mills and am going to attempt my first lithophane today. If it comes out, I'll post a picture. Thanks again for everything.

Jason

[dighsx]

Here are a few places you might want to try:

http://www.cuttingtoolsource.com/endmil ... llnose.htm
http://www.discount-tools.com/endmills/3261b.cfm
http://www.discount-tools.com/endmills/3261btialn.cfm

[js11110]

Tony and Chuck,

I see where you guys are coming from. I'm cutting my first Litho right now, using a .062 ball end mill and its coming out beautiful (I think) I'll post a picture a little later on.

Jay,

Thanks for the links, I am going to check those out right now. Have you had any experiaence with any of them? If I not and I end up purchasing something, I'll posy my experience in the "suppliers" thread.

Jason

[kevinl]

I just got one of them cutters to try out but havent used it yet.

I ordered mine from hartlauer bits. I believe onsrud makes them.

[dighsx]

Jason, I haven't tried either place so let us know how it goes.

[js11110]

I posted a picture of my first attempt at: http://www.vectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3208#3208


Jason

[Tony Mac]

Reply from Cutting Tool Source

Tony,

We can make the tapered end mills you are looking for.
2 pieces of the 5 degree mill would cost $50.00 each and 6 pieces of it would be $35.00 each.
With the 10 degree mill, it would also cost $50.00 each for 2 pieces or 6 pieces for $35.00 each.

Thank You,

Nick Steve