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The several inlays I completed were many days ago, and I know I mixed properly. But some of them are still sticky.
garylmast wrote:The several inlays I completed were many days ago, and I know I mixed properly. But some of them are still sticky.
I bought the EPOXY RESIN CRYSTAL CLEAR Kit from Amazon and had the same problem. Maybe it's something they don't add to make it odorless.![]()
, I bought the Amazon stuff because it was suppose to have UV protection for a project I have sitting in the sun all day. Although I don't think it's has the UV protection, for everything else I've been sticking with the All-Purpose Fiberglass Resin I get at HomeDepot and have much better results.
Gary
ger21 wrote:If it's not curing, it's either a bad batch, or not mixed properly. Most likely the latter.
You can try warming it with a heat gun to get it thinner, and warm the workpiece before adding the epoxy as well.
What you really want is a laminating epoxy, which is much, much thinner.
CarveOne wrote:As an example of what ger21 is talking about, West Systems 105 epoxy resin and 206 hardener is mixed at a ratio of 5 to one. Be sure that you closely follow instructions that come with the epoxy. West Systems epoxy is not watery, but is thin enough to brush on with cheap 1" chip brushes or pour into carved pockets, and will be workable for an hour before it gets tacky enough to feel that it is starting to harden at a room temperature of around 75 F. If put in a heat chamber set at about 90 F it will be ready to remove in another hour and will be almost fully cured overnight.
There are color additives for epoxy resins that do not affect the curing times much at all.
CarveOne
DarinB wrote:CarveOne wrote:As an example of what ger21 is talking about, West Systems 105 epoxy resin and 206 hardener is mixed at a ratio of 5 to one. Be sure that you closely follow instructions that come with the epoxy. West Systems epoxy is not watery, but is thin enough to brush on with cheap 1" chip brushes or pour into carved pockets, and will be workable for an hour before it gets tacky enough to feel that it is starting to harden at a room temperature of around 75 F. If put in a heat chamber set at about 90 F it will be ready to remove in another hour and will be almost fully cured overnight.
There are color additives for epoxy resins that do not affect the curing times much at all.
CarveOne
Do you use a liquid or powder for color? I'm wondering if there is a difference in mica powder or Tempra paint powder? I've used liquid, even a few drops really slows down the cure time for me. The powdered, usually the Jacquard Pearl Ex, works great for me.
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