Routed Jewelry Box

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Re: Routed Jewelry Box

Postby llwood » Thu Dec 29, 2016 5:21 pm

Beautiful. Absolutely stunning.

Of course your daughter loves it, and it will have lifelong appeal. I'm sure she'll cherish it forever.

When we were cutting the Wraparound Jewelry Box, we were debating about whether there was a way to cut felt for the bottom of the drawer compartments on the CNC. You demonstrated that not only is it possible, but it looks great. Thanks for the inspiration. Gotta look into this drag knife thing.

Andy and Marty
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Re: Routed Jewelry Box

Postby SPalm » Thu Dec 29, 2016 6:15 pm

Hey KG, that is beautiful.
Good job, and I too have to look into that drag knife..

Steve
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Re: Routed Jewelry Box

Postby SteveNelson46 » Thu Dec 29, 2016 6:16 pm

I really like making these kind of things. They make good gifts for friends and family. Your design is so unique and nicely done that I think I'll try making one. Thanks for sharing the finished project file.
Steve
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Re: Routed Jewelry Box

Postby ezurick » Sun Dec 23, 2018 5:29 pm

Awesome design and project. First, keep in mind I am a newbie and I am limited to a Chinese 6040 machine. I really want to try this but I am a little confused on some parts and rather reluctant to think my wood is accurate in thickness, which would be extremely critical to the build. I see many folks here have access to all kinds of exotic accurate thickness wood. Besides super expensive online/shipping, all I have here in this desolate NC land is box stores. And my Lowes don't carry anything good besides their expensive red oak. Many of my simple projects are done with the cheap whiteboard/pine that Lowes sell. Since they are never accurate, I bought a nice 13" Wen planer. However, I still seem to get inaccurate thickness because the wood is purchased with different thickness on the same board. I am old and retired and can't afford expensive boards to play with. I can plane a .75 inch pine board down a few passes on each side and my result is as an example .69 inch on one side and .64 on the other side. It's because the original is already out of whack and I have no idea how to correct it.

Anyway, reading thru the whole thread I see no one talks about that back board and how they made it. Or perhaps I missed it somehow. I assume you use the top large drawer as the pattern for the hole in that back board. Next is the thickness or depth issue. In my case, since I have different thickness in my cheap wood; I would be better off cutting and completing the whole project before knowing how high the back board will be.

Remember, I am a newbie with everything, so don't bark too loud and hurt my feelings... lol. But it is an awesome project that I really like. Thanks.... ~ Ed
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Re: Routed Jewelry Box

Postby Royrufus » Tue Dec 25, 2018 1:30 am

Very nice work. Thank you for sharing
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Re: Routed Jewelry Box

Postby svegare » Tue Dec 25, 2018 10:10 pm

Thanks for the generosity


Anders
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Re: Routed Jewelry Box

Postby wbrock » Wed Dec 26, 2018 5:35 pm

ezurick wrote:Awesome design and project. First, keep in mind I am a newbie and I am limited to a Chinese 6040 machine. I really want to try this but I am a little confused on some parts and rather reluctant to think my wood is accurate in thickness, which would be extremely critical to the build. I see many folks here have access to all kinds of exotic accurate thickness wood. Besides super expensive online/shipping, all I have here in this desolate NC land is box stores. And my Lowes don't carry anything good besides their expensive red oak. Many of my simple projects are done with the cheap whiteboard/pine that Lowes sell. Since they are never accurate, I bought a nice 13" Wen planer. However, I still seem to get inaccurate thickness because the wood is purchased with different thickness on the same board. I am old and retired and can't afford expensive boards to play with. I can plane a .75 inch pine board down a few passes on each side and my result is as an example .69 inch on one side and .64 on the other side. It's because the original is already out of whack and I have no idea how to correct it.

Anyway, reading thru the whole thread I see no one talks about that back board and how they made it. Or perhaps I missed it somehow. I assume you use the top large drawer as the pattern for the hole in that back board. Next is the thickness or depth issue. In my case, since I have different thickness in my cheap wood; I would be better off cutting and completing the whole project before knowing how high the back board will be.

Remember, I am a newbie with everything, so don't bark too loud and hurt my feelings... lol. But it is an awesome project that I really like. Thanks.... ~ Ed


I made one last year, I cut everything then figured out the size for back piece.
I don't like spending a lot money on exotic woods that people won't don't appreciate so I have started buying 2 by's at local lumber yard and planning them down to get accurate thickness. I can usually get the 2 by's cheaper than the white wood and it has much nicer grain patterns and looks better when finished. The down side to the 2 by's is you need let them dry for few weeks before carving.
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Re: Routed Jewelry Box

Postby tajohns » Tue Jan 15, 2019 7:58 pm

Thanks for sharing Steve, very nice job!

Cheers,
Tom
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