Stinger 1 spindle / gantry alignment
Stinger 1 spindle / gantry alignment
Finally have my Stinger powered up with dust collection, air, ... Surfaced my spoil board and found that each pass leaves a small ridge, about .002 to .004" high on the spindle side of the gantry (If you stand next to the machine's side with the spindle to the left of the gantry, the high side is on the left) To me this indicates the spindle and / or gantry are not perpendicular to the table. I don't trust the measurement, but checking the gantry frame and also checking the spindle with a square on the table seems to support this, although it does change depending where on the table you check. Anyone know the procedure for adjusting this assembly?
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- Vectric Apprentice
- Posts: 89
- Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2014 9:45 am
- Model of CNC Machine: CaMaster Stinger 1
- Location: Canada, Quebec
Re: Stinger 1 spindle / gantry alignment
Hi,
I had the same problem and it was because the plate that hold the router was loose from the hiwin.
You will need a long allen key to screw the loose one if it is the problem.
You can check by trying to move the router (spindle) plate.
PS: it would be almost impossible to get a perfect surfacing!
Respect
Claude
I had the same problem and it was because the plate that hold the router was loose from the hiwin.
You will need a long allen key to screw the loose one if it is the problem.
You can check by trying to move the router (spindle) plate.
PS: it would be almost impossible to get a perfect surfacing!
Respect
Claude
- TReischl
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 4589
- Joined: Thu Jan 18, 2007 6:04 pm
- Model of CNC Machine: 8020 48X36X7 RP 2022 UCCNC Screenset
- Location: Leland NC
Re: Stinger 1 spindle / gantry alignment
Adjusting perpendicularity is fairly easy and very inexpensive.
Take a piece of rod (diameter that you can bend easily, like 1/4 inch brass) and make two more or less 90 degree bends in it to form sort of a Z shape. The exact degree of the bends is not critical at all.
Chuck that up in your spindle. Rotate it around and check differences with a feeler gage. If you have ridges make sure the feeler gage you use is long enough to span several of the ridges. I use a block of 1/2 X 1/2 square aluminum, nothing fancy.
You could also go out and by an expensive rig that holds a depth indicator for $100 or so. Those are much more useful in a machine shop.
Take a piece of rod (diameter that you can bend easily, like 1/4 inch brass) and make two more or less 90 degree bends in it to form sort of a Z shape. The exact degree of the bends is not critical at all.
Chuck that up in your spindle. Rotate it around and check differences with a feeler gage. If you have ridges make sure the feeler gage you use is long enough to span several of the ridges. I use a block of 1/2 X 1/2 square aluminum, nothing fancy.
You could also go out and by an expensive rig that holds a depth indicator for $100 or so. Those are much more useful in a machine shop.
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