laflippin wrote:Try gluing up a 1/4" thick hardwood blank to a piece of 1/4" Baltic birch plywood, then V-carve the male piece of your inlay into the hardwood side (0.1" start depth, 0.1" flat depth). Those parameters should leave 0.05" of backing when using a 1/4" thick blank but that almost never works out....hogging out the large areas almost always ruptures some part of that 0.05" backing, or maybe it turns out the blank wasn't exactly 0.25" thick in the first place, or....? and then male part of the project goes into the trash. And the upshot is, you end up buying more expensive 3/8" or 1/2" stock for making the male inlays, then milling off half of it.
The glued-on male "spoil board" has two nice advantages...(1) you can obviously use thinner, cheaper hardwood blanks and you wind up using more of the valuable hardwood for your project rather than milling it away. (2) as a recent convert to the procedure of milling off the waste backing with the CNC machine (under manual control, mostly) I've certainly noticed that a 1/2" dia end-mill breezes right through the quarter-inch, soft birch plywood backing much, much easier than it does with any of the typical hardwoods used for inlay.
Some will note that these laminate male blanks can warp a bit...but, another nice feature of this procedure is: The hardwood component of the laminate is thin enough so that the laminated blanks can be clamped down (4 clamps!) perfectly flat to the CNC bed. Then, after the male piece is glued into the female engraving any minor warping effect is again overcome by good clamping.
laflippin wrote:Martin....you've got Robert the Bruce AND a neighborhood sawmill? Doesn't seem quite fair, chap.
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