Steaming tool marks

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lgrondin
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Steaming tool marks

Post by lgrondin »

Was anyone try using stream to reduce tool marks in their wood projects?

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Rcnewcomb
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Re: Steaming tool marks

Post by Rcnewcomb »

I've steamed dents out of spruce using a soldering iron and wet paper towel, but I've never tried it for tool marks.

What is causing the tool marks? Photo?
- Randall Newcomb
10 fingers in, 10 fingers out, another good day in the shop

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FixitMike
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Re: Steaming tool marks

Post by FixitMike »

Moistening wood before cutting makes it easier to cut, so if the wood were steamed first, one could assume less tool deflection, which would reduce tool marking. But I don't think steaming after cutting would help.

That said, I'll have to admit I've never tried it.
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Experience comes from bad judgement.

Imbler
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Re: Steaming tool marks

Post by Imbler »

I build guitars, and steaming dents out is a well know fix. I suppose since tools compress as well as cut there -could- be some denting when cutting. Steaming might expand out some compression, but it will also raise the grain. I'd experiment on the cutoffs you are throwing away anyway!
Mike

lgrondin
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Re: Steaming tool marks

Post by lgrondin »

My problem is with bottom of large pockets. Sanding helps but its very hard to see all the tool marks until after staining and then it to late. I mainly use hard and soft maple for my projects. I have an adjustable temperature soldering iron and will modify one of the tips to provide a large heating area and will try experimenting on different woods.

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zeeway
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Re: Steaming tool marks

Post by zeeway »

The wood at the bottom of a pocket is typically not dented, so I would guess your heating experiment would not be successful...but, hey, maybe you will make a brake-through. I would suggest instead, making another very light pass, to remove as many tool marks as possible. Other than a light pass with a sharp tool, I think there will be some sanding involved.

Angie

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scottp55
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Re: Steaming tool marks

Post by scottp55 »

Like Angie said, I would try adding a last pass of somewhere around .02" in your "edit passes" first, but I usually do 2 toolpaths. First is offset by .02" and depth is .02" too shallow and run at hogging speeds, second is a full depth pass at slightly higher speed/slower feed/ lower stepover.
A LOT depends on the bit, and have had good luck with a straight, but best with FEM Downcut. Up cuts seem to rip Maple fibers up a little.
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Re: Steaming tool marks

Post by ger21 »

Make sure your spindle is trammed as good as you can get it. Also, try a bit with radius corners, or a bowl or dish cleaning bit like these.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... _sign.html
Make sure the tool is very sharp, and take a very light pass.
Gerry - http://www.thecncwoodworker.com

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