Steaming tool marks
Steaming tool marks
Was anyone try using stream to reduce tool marks in their wood projects?
- Rcnewcomb
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Re: Steaming tool marks
I've steamed dents out of spruce using a soldering iron and wet paper towel, but I've never tried it for tool marks.
What is causing the tool marks? Photo?
What is causing the tool marks? Photo?
- Randall Newcomb
10 fingers in, 10 fingers out, another good day in the shop
10 fingers in, 10 fingers out, another good day in the shop
- FixitMike
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Re: Steaming tool marks
Moistening wood before cutting makes it easier to cut, so if the wood were steamed first, one could assume less tool deflection, which would reduce tool marking. But I don't think steaming after cutting would help.
That said, I'll have to admit I've never tried it.
That said, I'll have to admit I've never tried it.
Good judgement comes from experience.
Experience comes from bad judgement.
Experience comes from bad judgement.
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Re: Steaming tool marks
I build guitars, and steaming dents out is a well know fix. I suppose since tools compress as well as cut there -could- be some denting when cutting. Steaming might expand out some compression, but it will also raise the grain. I'd experiment on the cutoffs you are throwing away anyway!
Mike
Mike
Re: Steaming tool marks
My problem is with bottom of large pockets. Sanding helps but its very hard to see all the tool marks until after staining and then it to late. I mainly use hard and soft maple for my projects. I have an adjustable temperature soldering iron and will modify one of the tips to provide a large heating area and will try experimenting on different woods.
- zeeway
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Re: Steaming tool marks
The wood at the bottom of a pocket is typically not dented, so I would guess your heating experiment would not be successful...but, hey, maybe you will make a brake-through. I would suggest instead, making another very light pass, to remove as many tool marks as possible. Other than a light pass with a sharp tool, I think there will be some sanding involved.
Angie
Angie
- scottp55
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Re: Steaming tool marks
Like Angie said, I would try adding a last pass of somewhere around .02" in your "edit passes" first, but I usually do 2 toolpaths. First is offset by .02" and depth is .02" too shallow and run at hogging speeds, second is a full depth pass at slightly higher speed/slower feed/ lower stepover.
A LOT depends on the bit, and have had good luck with a straight, but best with FEM Downcut. Up cuts seem to rip Maple fibers up a little.
scott
A LOT depends on the bit, and have had good luck with a straight, but best with FEM Downcut. Up cuts seem to rip Maple fibers up a little.
scott
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
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Re: Steaming tool marks
Make sure your spindle is trammed as good as you can get it. Also, try a bit with radius corners, or a bowl or dish cleaning bit like these.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... _sign.html
Make sure the tool is very sharp, and take a very light pass.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... _sign.html
Make sure the tool is very sharp, and take a very light pass.
Gerry - http://www.thecncwoodworker.com