Hello,
I have been working on this coaster for some time now and finally got it to a point where it almost looks like something. I imported a 3D file of a Dragonfly and then proceeded to create the 3D flowers and stems that are with it in Aspire. I added some islands to fill in the open areas so as to add support at the same level around the design. I had originally a somewhat flat body for the Dragonfly but decided to give it a more rounded shape and I think it worked pretty good. The wings slope upwards towards the outer edges and I used the 'project toolpath onto 3D model' to do the engraving for the lines in the wings. It worked very well and is a great option to have instead of trying to do several toolpaths at varying depths. I am very pleased with what the software enables one to do and the performance of the toolpaths seemed very good. I have a few flaws in this part and it goes back to my need to make a better motor mount for my Rotozip. I guess that will be my next project. So I imported a 3D model, created my own 3D shapes and projected the engraving onto the 3D model. As I said before the 3D modeling would probably be easier with a thicker material and there would be less chance of cutting through. Take a look.
Aluminum 3D Dragonfly and flowers coaster.
- metalworkz
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Re: Aluminum 3D Dragonfly and flowers coaster.
Very cool, I need to try cutting something 3D in aluminum it looks like it's fun.
Paul
Paul
Thanks
Paul Mannhardt
Paul Mannhardt
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Re: Aluminum 3D Dragonfly and flowers coaster.
Wes,
That is great work! Would you mind sharing your, bit type/size and settings? After seeing some of your work in aluminum I finally gave it a try on a small medallion I need to inlay. When I got through, it looked like eight miles of dirt road on a rainy night and I had a whole new level of respect for your work.
Regards,
Joe
That is great work! Would you mind sharing your, bit type/size and settings? After seeing some of your work in aluminum I finally gave it a try on a small medallion I need to inlay. When I got through, it looked like eight miles of dirt road on a rainy night and I had a whole new level of respect for your work.
Regards,
Joe
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Re: Aluminum 3D Dragonfly and flowers coaster.
Looks good, Wes!!
I am really diggin your aluminum work!
I am really diggin your aluminum work!
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Re: Aluminum 3D Dragonfly and flowers coaster.
Thanks for the kind remarks guys.
Joe,
I am using a solid carbide .093" dia. ballnose mill for the finishing pass. I had been using a .093" dia flat end mill for the tight roughing cuts but broke that tool a couple weeks ago. I needed a bit at least .093" dia. to get into some of the tight areas, so I ended up using the .093" dia ballnose for the roughing cut also. It seems to be working OK like that but as soon as I can I need to get another .093 flat end mill to replace the one that broke.
You will want to make sure the bit is either solid carbide or carbide tipped for working with aluminum at the high speeds a router motor runs at. I have been using moderate feed rates and depth of cut because my current motor mount for the RotoZip is not that sturdy and I believe there is some flex in it. So I have been using .015" depth of cut and a 20 IPM feedrate. Keep the stepover small as possible without taking excessive time to run.
I used .03 stepover with the roughing pass to cut the time from 3.6 hours to a little over an hour for the Dragonfly. I think I used a .010" stepover for the finish pass, but the tool info says .015". If you do some tests with the minimal settings you can increase them as you see fit to get better run times and you will be able to find a 'sweet spot' where the compromise between speed and quality of the finish looks best.
You are probably used to using a lot faster feed rates and deeper passes with wood, but with the aluminum you may want to start out using less pass depth and slower feedrates and work them up to the best overall performance.
I hope I didn't leave anything out, but if so just ask me again. I'm glad to help if I can.
Joe,
I am using a solid carbide .093" dia. ballnose mill for the finishing pass. I had been using a .093" dia flat end mill for the tight roughing cuts but broke that tool a couple weeks ago. I needed a bit at least .093" dia. to get into some of the tight areas, so I ended up using the .093" dia ballnose for the roughing cut also. It seems to be working OK like that but as soon as I can I need to get another .093 flat end mill to replace the one that broke.
You will want to make sure the bit is either solid carbide or carbide tipped for working with aluminum at the high speeds a router motor runs at. I have been using moderate feed rates and depth of cut because my current motor mount for the RotoZip is not that sturdy and I believe there is some flex in it. So I have been using .015" depth of cut and a 20 IPM feedrate. Keep the stepover small as possible without taking excessive time to run.
I used .03 stepover with the roughing pass to cut the time from 3.6 hours to a little over an hour for the Dragonfly. I think I used a .010" stepover for the finish pass, but the tool info says .015". If you do some tests with the minimal settings you can increase them as you see fit to get better run times and you will be able to find a 'sweet spot' where the compromise between speed and quality of the finish looks best.
You are probably used to using a lot faster feed rates and deeper passes with wood, but with the aluminum you may want to start out using less pass depth and slower feedrates and work them up to the best overall performance.
I hope I didn't leave anything out, but if so just ask me again. I'm glad to help if I can.
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