Walking Sticks Continued
- dhellew2
- Vectric Wizard
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Walking Sticks Continued
I found that pockets are the easiest way to round areas for the brass ring and to reduce the diameter of the bottom section of the stick.
No need to allow for the bit radius.
I use a down cut spiral flute bit.
When using pockets just extend the vector box outside the diameter of the part to get a little overlap to compensate for the radius of the bit.
The carved area is 16" long on both the top and bottom.
The design leaves 2" adjustment on the top half and 7" on the bottom. This is enough to cover height ranging from 5'-0 to 6'-4".
The basic design steps are as follows:
Blanks are 1.4" diameter
Carving with a 1.5mm 3-flute spiral ball nose bit (carved 24 each, 16" long before bit broke: Douglas fir, Red Maple, & Black walnut)
In material setup leave gap outside model at 0.0, set model thickness to 0.7
Set all combine modes to ADD
NOTICE I AM WORKING FROM THE PART CENTER AND ADDING THE ELEMENTS IN ORDER TO THE TOP
0.70 Radius
0.448 Base Component
0.230 Model height
0.020 Base height
0.002 Clearance above model
Draw vector around entire part
Draw vector at location of carved area (exact length and width [circumference])
Create component exact length and a bit wider than the part circumference in the carved area
Add 3d art and set model height and base For the handle I've had issues with soft wood chipping off. Thru trial and error I settled on a 3-start spiral, 5" long, 0.625 between centers, 0.1875 deep, speed 12,000, feed rate 110, using a 3-flute 60 degree v-bit, then sanding with a mop sander after.
Paracord is the solution to non-repairable chip out handles
Inserts are epoxied in place, exactly the same way; using laser cut washers with the brass ring to center so all tops and bottoms are interchangeable.
In the future I might be necessaary to eliminate the size one baby shoes. Ebay supply is running out and it costs more than $50 for new ones. Wood costs about $3, insert and ring $10, hardener, finish, leather strap, ss screw and washer, and cane tip about $5.
Dale
You will get old if you live long enough!
Young = time, no money
Old = money, no time
Dale
Young = time, no money
Old = money, no time
Dale
- dhellew2
- Vectric Wizard
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- Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 10:14 pm
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- Location: Royal City Washington
Re: Walking Sticks Continued
I missed adding the number of passes for the v-cut handle.
Since changing to the v-bit cut I've not had any chip out.
Set the number of passes to 4.
Dale
Since changing to the v-bit cut I've not had any chip out.
Set the number of passes to 4.
Dale
You will get old if you live long enough!
Young = time, no money
Old = money, no time
Dale
Young = time, no money
Old = money, no time
Dale
Re: Walking Sticks Continued
Great job Dale.
Gary
Gary
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Re: Walking Sticks Continued
Dale
They look impressive I still have not got my head around the shoes, the 3D work is great. I assume the sticks are dowelled together at the ferrule. Again impressive.
Les
They look impressive I still have not got my head around the shoes, the 3D work is great. I assume the sticks are dowelled together at the ferrule. Again impressive.
Les
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Re: Walking Sticks Continued
These are awesome! Thanks for the help with these.
Now I just need to get my rotary setup!
Now I just need to get my rotary setup!
Dave
https://lakesedgewoodcraft.com/
https://lakesedgewoodcraft.com/
- dhellew2
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Re: Walking Sticks Continued
Les,
The two halves are connected via a threaded insert just like a pool ques.
https://treelineusa.com/cane-coupler-set/
These are epoxied into a slightly over size hole to allow for exact centering. I use the brass ring and laser cut wood washers to align the inserts until the epoxy sets.
By using a 90 degree angle cutting jig on a miter saw and the washer and brass ring the sticks are perfectly straight, and interchangeable.
The 1" flat spots between cut and carved area are both aesthetic and makes it easy to cut square ends.
Inside the shoe there is a standard cane tip that holds the shoe on, just like your foot does.
When you setup your rotary make the home position "0" at the center of the largest bit you will be using allowing for adequate clearance from your chuck. Mine is 1.5" from the end of the blank which allows for a 1" planer bit.
USING A STANDARD SETUP ELIMINATES THE POSSIBILITY OF RUNNING INTO THE CHUCK.
If you want to cut closer to the chuck, such as for the brass ring, while using a smaller bit, just use a pocket starting at (in my setup) -0.50". Using the pocket eliminates the need for remembering to allow for the bit radius.
TOP HALF:
Since I want to leave at least 1" rounded above the handle grooves, I cut grooves 1" to 6"
Carving 7" to 23"
The brass ring cut 24" to 26" (this allows for 2" of height adjustment)
BOTTOM HALF:
Brass ring cut 0" to 2"
Carving 3" to 19"
1" cut for cane tip 20" to 26" (this allows for 6" of height adjustment)
Dale
The two halves are connected via a threaded insert just like a pool ques.
https://treelineusa.com/cane-coupler-set/
These are epoxied into a slightly over size hole to allow for exact centering. I use the brass ring and laser cut wood washers to align the inserts until the epoxy sets.
By using a 90 degree angle cutting jig on a miter saw and the washer and brass ring the sticks are perfectly straight, and interchangeable.
The 1" flat spots between cut and carved area are both aesthetic and makes it easy to cut square ends.
Inside the shoe there is a standard cane tip that holds the shoe on, just like your foot does.
When you setup your rotary make the home position "0" at the center of the largest bit you will be using allowing for adequate clearance from your chuck. Mine is 1.5" from the end of the blank which allows for a 1" planer bit.
USING A STANDARD SETUP ELIMINATES THE POSSIBILITY OF RUNNING INTO THE CHUCK.
If you want to cut closer to the chuck, such as for the brass ring, while using a smaller bit, just use a pocket starting at (in my setup) -0.50". Using the pocket eliminates the need for remembering to allow for the bit radius.
TOP HALF:
Since I want to leave at least 1" rounded above the handle grooves, I cut grooves 1" to 6"
Carving 7" to 23"
The brass ring cut 24" to 26" (this allows for 2" of height adjustment)
BOTTOM HALF:
Brass ring cut 0" to 2"
Carving 3" to 19"
1" cut for cane tip 20" to 26" (this allows for 6" of height adjustment)
Dale
You will get old if you live long enough!
Young = time, no money
Old = money, no time
Dale
Young = time, no money
Old = money, no time
Dale
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- Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2019 3:17 pm
- Model of CNC Machine: hand made
Re: Walking Sticks Continued
Dale
Thank you for the information, I have printed it and placed it in my to do to do folder.
Les
Thank you for the information, I have printed it and placed it in my to do to do folder.
Les
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Re: Walking Sticks Continued
Wow!! Very nice!
- Creation in Wood
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