Vectric Customer

Shiver me timbers and all that other good pirate talk.
This is about 15 inches tall, depth of model is 1.5.

Totally fun and for ME!!! Nope, no one else gets it, that is the pirate code.

Thinking about painting it though.

That is totally cool!

Gary

I like it!
Now ye be so ready fer International Talk Like A Pirate Day...Thursday, Sept 19th.
'ave fun!
Bob

Great work Ted!

I don't think I could give that carving up either. If you decide to paint it, would like to see an update pic.

Wow, Ted that is spectacular!
Do you mind sharing:
What wood
What bits

WNC_Ed wrote:Wow, Ted that is spectacular!
Do you mind sharing:
What wood
What bits

Thank you.

And nope I do not mind sharing in the least.

That is nasty old big box construction pine. i wrote about using it in another post the other day. Essentially a person needs to let it dry out a bit. That is pretty quick with the "fir" type pines, not sure about SYP, probably. Lately I have used the following process:

I buy 2X6 because over here in the low country all pine over 2X6 is SYP.

Park the boards out in the hot NC sun for a few days to help start them drying.

Cut it to 19 or 23.5 lengths avoiding knots, especially big ones. (those numbers make best use of an 8 foot length)

Rip the pieces to either 2.687 or 1.75.

Then I let them dry in the shop, pieces dry out faster than waiting for a whole board to dry out.

I flatten one side. Because these are small pieces I just run them through the drum sander. Then flatten other side.

Glue them up positioning boards that have knots so that the knots wind up outside the carving.

After the glue dries for a couple of hours I use the TS to cut some slots on the edges so I can clamp them without putting clamps on the top surface of the glue up. This will help folks who have limited Z travel do thicker pieces like this.

I then flatten the top surface with a pocketing pass and a large bit. Flip and repeat.

Now it is ready to go.

I have been using HSS bits whenever possible. Those bits are sharper than carbide.

Not sure the following is the absolute best way to do this but it is what I do.

Larger end mill for roughing, like 10mm (.375). DOC is usually about 6mm (.250) with a feedrate of 300 IPM. The stepover is 50%. The reason I do this is that there is a LOT of material to be roughed out in carvings this deep. I leave at least .125 of material from the roughing operation. Be sure to mill out material outside the model boundary to create clearance for the router collet when using a smaller finishing bit.

This is where it gets a bit trickier and I am not sure this is the best way.

Because a 10mm or larger bit does not get into a lot of places there is still a lot more material that needs to be removed before a finish cut.

I use a 6mm HSS ball nose bit to remove that material using a roughing pass. But I do not want to watch it cut air so I set the depth of cut greater than the model depth and do a roughing pass with about a .03 stepover and I leave .03 for the finishing pass. This has been working out well so far.

This two step process helps with how long it takes to rough out deeper models.

Time for the finish pass.

Sometimes I will leave tabs but usually not. As someone else pointed out on the other thread, milling out this much material can cause the piece to warp. The workpiece has the corners left after machining. So I just flip it over, clamp using the slots again right on the corners and flatten the back with a pocketing pass. I use a raster pass so that as the piece is cut free it falls away from the cutting. An offset strategy is a bit iffy as to when the part will fall free and how, it can very easily turn a bit and that is not good.

Hoped that helped explain what I am doing.

Thank you,
That's a whole lot of real good information in your reply.

Bob

I hope you will forgive me, but I had to translate your reply for any pirates out there:I never knew there was a translator for pirate talk. The pirate translator is over here. http://pirate.monkeyness.com/online_pirate_translator

Thank ye.

'n nope I do nah mind sharin' in th' least.

That be nasty ole big box construction pine. i wrote about usin' it in another post th' other day. Essentially a scallywag needs t' let it dry out a bit. That be pretty quick wit' th' "fir" type pines, nah sure about SYP, prolly. Lately I 'ave used th' followin' process:

I buy 2X6 'cause o'er here in th' low country all pine o'er 2X6 be SYP.

Park th' boards out in th' hot NC sun fer a few days t' help start them dryin'.

Cut it t' 19 or 23.5 lengths avoidin' knots, especially big ones. (those numbers make best use o' an 8 foot length)

Rip th' pieces t' either 2.687 or 1.75.

Then I let them dry in th' shop, pieces dry out faster than waitin' fer a whole board t' dry out.

I flatten one side. 'cause these are wee pieces I jus' run them through th' drum sander. Then flatten other side.

Glue them up positionin' boards that 'ave knots so that th' knots wind up outside th' carvin'.

Aft th' glue dries fer a couple o' hours I use th' TS t' cut some slots on th' edges so I can clamp them without puttin' clamps on th' top surface o' th' glue up. This will help folks who 'ave limited Z travel do thicker pieces like this.

I then flatten th' top surface wit' a pocketin' pass 'n a large bit. Flip 'n repeat.

Now 'tis ready t' go.

I 'ave been usin' HSS bits whenever possible. Those bits are sharper than carbide.

Nah sure th' followin' be th' absolute best way t' do this but 'tis wha' I do.

Larger end mill fer roughin', like 10mm (.375). DOC be usually about 6mm (.250) wit' a feedrate o' 300 IPM. Th' stepover be 50%. Th' reason I do 'tis that thar be a LOT o' material t' be roughed out in carvin's this deep. I leave at least .125 o' material from th' roughin' operation. Be sure t' mill out material outside th' model boundary t' create clearance fer th' router collet when usin' a weeer finishin' bit.

'tis where it gets a bit trickier 'n I be nah sure 'tis th' best way.

'cause a 10mm or larger bit does nah get into a lot o' places thar be still a lot more material that needs t' be scuttled afore a finish cut.

I use a 6mm HSS ball nose bit t' scuttle that material usin' a roughin' pass. But I do nah wants t' watch it cut air so I set th' depth o' cut greater than th' model depth 'n do a roughin' pass wit' about a .03 stepover 'n I leave .03 fer th' finishin' pass. This has been workin' out well so far.

This two step process helps wit' how long it loots t' rough out deeper models.

Time fer th' finish pass.

Sometimes I shall leave tabs but usually nah. As someone else pointed out on th' other thread, millin' out this much material can cause th' piece t' warp. Th' workpiece has th' corners left aft machinin'. So I jus' flip it o'er, clamp usin' th' slots again right on th' corners 'n flatten aft wit' a pocketin' pass. I use a raster pass so that as th' piece be cut free it falls away from th' cuttin'. An offset strategy be a bit iffy as t' when th' part will fall free 'n how, it can mighty easily turn a bit 'n that ain't good.

Hoped that helped explain wha' I be doin'.

Bahahaha ^^^

Ted, great info - thank you!

Great project AND info.! Thanks

Painted:
This was done with acrylics, the little bottles one buys in a craft store or wally mart.

I do not do much painting of this type. Soooo, it was a learning experience. I put on two coats of sanding sealer and sanded after each one. Then I painted. Thinking I should have put on a coat of full strength shellac before painting. It looks fine and all that, but the painting would have been much smoother, I think.

Looks good!

I would not be able to resist using some metallic Sculpt Nouveau and Patina on the “metal” parts! Plus, I think I would be tempted to apply a dark wipe on/wipe off glaze overall to “grunge it up” a bit!

I would not be able to resist using some metallic Sculpt Nouveau and Patina on the “metal” parts! Plus, I think I would be tempted to apply a dark wipe on/wipe off glaze overall to “grunge it up” a bit!

+1, Michael read my mind.

Gary

mtylerfl wrote:Looks good!

I would not be able to resist using some metallic Sculpt Nouveau and Patina on the “metal” parts! Plus, I think I would be tempted to apply a dark wipe on/wipe off glaze overall to “grunge it up” a bit!

I wholeheartedly agree. It has definitely gone through my mind once or twice.

The carve already looks awesome and I’m impressed with your paint job!

I’m thinking it can be even “awesom-er”!