Smoothing Hand Plane

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BillK
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Re: Smoothing Hand Plane

Post by BillK »

So here is my new design for the block plane. I'll call it Type II. Stanly has more than 20 Types of their no. 4, so I'm just starting.

This is made from just 3 pieces of wood, the two halves and the cross piece. This eliminates the non- CNC machining from the inside. Now the inside is CNC'd and the two halves are machined before assembly. The pin holes are also used in the locating fixture, which I remembered to machine a zero point into before I removed it from the machine for use to make more. This came out well in quilted maple. I still have to make the wedge, which I will also CNC this time.
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BillK
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Re: Smoothing Hand Plane

Post by BillK »

The two inner halves
The two inner halves
With the original
With the original
Quilted Maple shining through
Quilted Maple shining through
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potzmannwoodshop
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Re: Smoothing Hand Plane

Post by potzmannwoodshop »

Now Im anxious for those files, I have a few irons laying around that id love to put to a good use.

BillK
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Re: Smoothing Hand Plane

Post by BillK »

3AABA1F4-01F9-4834-8A5F-17405B9EE9C1.jpeg
The Mahogany wedge done.
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scottp55
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Re: Smoothing Hand Plane

Post by scottp55 »

PURTY!! :)
Going to have to go over the older pics...is a softer wood wedge better for holding a setting because of the compression/wood memory?
Great work you're doing!
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BillK
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Re: Smoothing Hand Plane

Post by BillK »

I've been using my block plane pretty regularly for the last year and a half. I recently decided to make one for a gift for someone who did me a favor. In digging up the old files and having had the using experience I made a few alterations. So this is now the third iteration of this design and I really like how it came out and how it works.

I kept the materials the same as they did a fine job over time. This is my go to plane for easing edges and for smoothing end grain. There were three main issues I wanted to address:

1: The width. While the second iteration was narrower than the first, it still felt a little wide for a one inch blade width. I was able to modify that with the existing files with no problem. This gives better feel while planing as its a little more intuitive as to where the blade is on the bottom.

2: The mouth for the blade. Its good for plane operation to have a tight mouth that is very close to the edge of the blade. This helps prevent wood tear out and to give a thin consistent shaving. I re did this part of my cut file to make the opening parallel to the blade bed. If material is removed from the plane bottom in the old design, the mouth gets wider. In this design it stays the same as its parallel.

3. The wedge. I wasn't unhappy with the wedge, but I felt I wanted something that sat higher and was easier to dislodge. This meets both those criteria. I also got a chance to use Aspire with the spiral gadget to design a scroll. I love the way it came out in the mahogany.

Both the wedge and the crosspiece are two sided machined objects. The crosspiece has to be dead on accurate in terms of locating the the pins to install in the sides. I solve this by machining one side to the finished length, sawing it free from its block, and then locating it in a machined nest on the CNC that allows me to clamp it in place to machine the other pin.

For the wedge I cut one side then cut it free of its block with a profile cut. I then put a piece of pine in the CNC and cut a female inlay pocket. Because I use a 1/4" endmill to do the profile cut and I use a 1/8" endmill to do the inlay pocket, there is some interference. I use my assembly mallet to tap the hard mahogany wedge into the soft pine inlay pocket. The finished side is cut with a 1/16 ball nose so no danger of lifting the part out.

There is really little to do after all the parts are cut. I make sure the two sides have very flat faces before gluing by lapping them on sandpaper over my granite plate, install the two locating pins and glue it up. I used a blunt chisel to scrape away the glue that dried on the outside. Great tool to have in your arsenal for refining carvings as well as scrapers.

And I almost forgot to mention! The blade was one I made myself. Nothing wrong with the Hock blade that I used on the previous iteration. I bought some O1 steel, cut it to length with the approximate angle. Designed a little tap file to add my logo and shape the end. I had access to a nice little lab furnace and hardened and annealed the blade to a nice Rc62. It shaves the hair off your arm with ease. With this blades thickness, there is no chip breaker necessary as there is no vibration that I noted in the cutting.

Here's some new pics. Thanks for reading.
The third iteration block plane
The third iteration block plane
New on the left, user on the right
New on the left, user on the right
side profile the same, except for wedge height
side profile the same, except for wedge height
Mouth opening comparison.
Mouth opening comparison.
New blade and new wedge
New blade and new wedge
Attachments
Trusty user wedge and Hock blade
Trusty user wedge and Hock blade
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scottp55
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Re: Smoothing Hand Plane

Post by scottp55 »

LIKING it Bill!!! :) :)
Like the throat angle mod for future owners!
Thickness of blade, AND the fact you made it is Special Touch!
Does increased height of wedge affect the "Feel", or just make it easier to remove and adjust?
Are you now going to have to make another one for yourself? :) :)
ALWAYS love to see fine Craftsmanship and Forethought!!
WELL DONE Bill!!
scott
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BillK
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Re: Smoothing Hand Plane

Post by BillK »

Scott, thanks for the encouragement!

The feel is about the same as the web between your thumb and index comes up behind the blade. The difference is with the width for me because I’m used to the old one. Yes, easier to remove and adjust for sure.

Will I make one for myself? I have another blade in stock.
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Phil
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Re: Smoothing Hand Plane

Post by Phil »

Keep up your wonderful efforts and please keep posting. I recently made my first handplane, by hand. Not successful but not a complete failure, more of a learning experience. I'm sure that the poor results would be rectified if I made in By CNC rather than by hand.

Phil

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Re: Smoothing Hand Plane

Post by BillK »

Thanks Phil. Very happy to know you are still following this thread.

I've learned a lot about handplanes making my own. I do own stanley and veritas and Sargent and Shelton planes. Designing and using your own gives you great insight into the little design iterations and differences between them and has made me get more out of using each of them.

I made my first one largely by hand for the internals but shaped the outside on CNC. Just following some videos I saw on the Krenov style planes, which are 3 piece. I learned a lot about what matters in terms of precision. The blade bed angle to the sole must be square as possible. The cross piece has to be placed high enough not to get shavings jammed in. The pins on the cross piece have to be co-planer. The mouth should be tight. The blade must be sharpened really square as the lateral adjustment should be minimal. CNC and design software helps with that.

The outside is where you can have fun with it. Make it fun and comfortable to hold and you will reach for it often. The Stanley block planes are nice, but they feel like your holding a handful of metal parts. My block plane feels like an old friend's handshake to me.
my plane till
my plane till
Recently restored Stanley 127 transitional plane
Recently restored Stanley 127 transitional plane
This 127 was a Liberty Bell edition, in honor of the 100th anniversary of the Liberty Bell. Circ. 1870"s
This 127 was a Liberty Bell edition, in honor of the 100th anniversary of the Liberty Bell. Circ. 1870"s
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