Celtic Dragon
- scottp55
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Re: Celtic Dragon
Hey John...You're right! Just like the first fluting toolpath I did on my computer shelf where I forgot to subtract the radius of the bit....
and created a "Custom Coffee Drainage Slot" on my keyboard pocket. Martin...I ain't got nuthin' against ballnoses:)
Just didn't have any with a .01" Tip before.
As soon as I get to a size where I can run a preview with the ball nose, and then can't see ANY difference running the Engraving bit toolpath....
I'm a 2 Flute TBN guy!!!
With 18K max on my spindle, a single flute is slower.
I'm thinking the 1mm Radius in that 4 pack I bought will be perfect for topos:)
Time to cut some tiny dish shapes to max feed/speed/stepover for a no sand finish...Thus was the first real test of these Chinese TBN's and Claro Walnut, so I
plugged in 90,90,16K and a 3% stepover so I wouldn't have to sand any scales off(originally had 6% plugged in, but spaces in between coils showed the stepover)
Fun to be playing again!!
scott
and created a "Custom Coffee Drainage Slot" on my keyboard pocket. Martin...I ain't got nuthin' against ballnoses:)
Just didn't have any with a .01" Tip before.
As soon as I get to a size where I can run a preview with the ball nose, and then can't see ANY difference running the Engraving bit toolpath....
I'm a 2 Flute TBN guy!!!
With 18K max on my spindle, a single flute is slower.
I'm thinking the 1mm Radius in that 4 pack I bought will be perfect for topos:)
Time to cut some tiny dish shapes to max feed/speed/stepover for a no sand finish...Thus was the first real test of these Chinese TBN's and Claro Walnut, so I
plugged in 90,90,16K and a 3% stepover so I wouldn't have to sand any scales off(originally had 6% plugged in, but spaces in between coils showed the stepover)
Fun to be playing again!!
scott
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
- dwilli9013
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Re: Celtic Dragon
It's fun to watch you playing again Scott you do some astounding work. Thanks for sharing it with all of us.
D-Dub
Dwayne
Dwilli
Dwayne
Dwilli
- martin54
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Re: Celtic Dragon
Martin...I ain't got nuthin' against ballnoses
Yer I know Scott, just couldn't resist
I got a pack of 4 Chinese TBN bits a while ago now & they seem to be holding up quite well, normally use an 8% step over but then I am not doing tiny stuff like you are
I actually broke the 1mm diameter tip but it was down to me being stupid 100%, no fault of the bit what so ever. I can confirm that it still hurts when you break a bit but not quite as much as it does when you break a much more expensive bit
Yer I know Scott, just couldn't resist
I got a pack of 4 Chinese TBN bits a while ago now & they seem to be holding up quite well, normally use an 8% step over but then I am not doing tiny stuff like you are
I actually broke the 1mm diameter tip but it was down to me being stupid 100%, no fault of the bit what so ever. I can confirm that it still hurts when you break a bit but not quite as much as it does when you break a much more expensive bit
- scottp55
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Re: Celtic Dragon
Yep Martin....They seem to be holding up well, and was testing the .25mm Radius one yesterday on 20yr old Cherry scrap(with 20 yr old Linseed on it:) with a Lion Head file, trying to maximize speeds/feeds with an offset toolpath...on second one I went too slow on feed and too high on speed, and managed to cake a little sawdust in the flutes at the 3/8" depth at 90,90,17K 3%stepover , but may have been the old 4 coats of linseed gumming it up.
120,120,16K 6%stepover on the first one went fine:)
No roughing cut at all, and the model was .5" deep(but initial plunge on the offset toolpath was only .2" and everything else was just stepover)
Been taking pics so I can find that old Chinese bit thread, and add to it a few field testing pics.
I must say I'm impressed so far....and I HATE buying Chinese!
Bubinga "Dragon" will have to wait till tomorrow, as I overdid my beauty sleep(NEED IT:), and getting too late and hot today to babysit the cut while sanding.
scott
120,120,16K 6%stepover on the first one went fine:)
No roughing cut at all, and the model was .5" deep(but initial plunge on the offset toolpath was only .2" and everything else was just stepover)
Been taking pics so I can find that old Chinese bit thread, and add to it a few field testing pics.
I must say I'm impressed so far....and I HATE buying Chinese!
Bubinga "Dragon" will have to wait till tomorrow, as I overdid my beauty sleep(NEED IT:), and getting too late and hot today to babysit the cut while sanding.
scott
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
- scottp55
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Re: Celtic Dragon
Another one Michael
Seems the denser the wood,and how I hold it to the light, the more details pop out at me:)
Now to cut the stones for the eyes and the orb
WONDERFUL DETAILS!
scott
Seems the denser the wood,and how I hold it to the light, the more details pop out at me:)
Now to cut the stones for the eyes and the orb
WONDERFUL DETAILS!
scott
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
- highpockets
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Re: Celtic Dragon
Kudos to Scott for great execution of a beautifully detailed model created by Michael.
John
Maker of Chips
Maker of Chips
- mezalick
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Re: Celtic Dragon
Really nice Scott.
I still find it interesting that the detail of a model remains no matter the size...It just depends on the size of the bits..
I'm about to cut one that will be 19" x 24" x 2" thick..
We'll need to compare..
Michael
I still find it interesting that the detail of a model remains no matter the size...It just depends on the size of the bits..
I'm about to cut one that will be 19" x 24" x 2" thick..
We'll need to compare..
Michael
Michael Mezalick
https://www.youtube.com/user/mezalick
mm@mezalick.com
https://www.youtube.com/user/mezalick
mm@mezalick.com
- scottp55
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Re: Celtic Dragon
Thanks Michael:)
Will yours be Wood? If so what species?
Just curious as I've got part of a Claro plank 12"wide and about 1.4" thick, that I'm looking at sideways now that I know how it carves.
Ya shouldn't need a magnifying glass to see the details at that size...where's the fun in that!
It only took my Dad 2 years carrying the Loon scene around as a button before he was looking at a 8X10" Loon scene and was comparing them...AND asked for a magnifying glass.
scott
Will yours be Wood? If so what species?
Just curious as I've got part of a Claro plank 12"wide and about 1.4" thick, that I'm looking at sideways now that I know how it carves.
Ya shouldn't need a magnifying glass to see the details at that size...where's the fun in that!
It only took my Dad 2 years carrying the Loon scene around as a button before he was looking at a 8X10" Loon scene and was comparing them...AND asked for a magnifying glass.
scott
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
- mezalick
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Re: Celtic Dragon
I've got that nice bundle of Spanish Cedar....
~M
~M
Michael Mezalick
https://www.youtube.com/user/mezalick
mm@mezalick.com
https://www.youtube.com/user/mezalick
mm@mezalick.com
- scottp55
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Re: Celtic Dragon
Never had or worked with it.
Very interested in results:)
scott
Very interested in results:)
scott
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
- scottp55
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Re: Celtic Dragon
Now the fun starts:)
Rinsed and cleaned all my smaller Opal chips, and almost dry and ready to separate....thinking the smaller pieces carefully placed and then thin CA.
Careful tweezer work...might do a test today on tiny scrap of hard oily wood with medium CA to get a slight dome going....Thin is in the mail, but not sure if the medium will penetrate chips decently...Fun experimenting, but first separating by color with tweezers.....maybe to caffeinated to do today
Wonder what a green eyed dragon will look like?
Acetone and scratch pocket for bonding first.
Found 10X loupe and end grain matches perfectly on pore size/distribution and even has identical mineral deposits and rays...99% sure it's Cocobolo:)
Rinsed and cleaned all my smaller Opal chips, and almost dry and ready to separate....thinking the smaller pieces carefully placed and then thin CA.
Careful tweezer work...might do a test today on tiny scrap of hard oily wood with medium CA to get a slight dome going....Thin is in the mail, but not sure if the medium will penetrate chips decently...Fun experimenting, but first separating by color with tweezers.....maybe to caffeinated to do today
Wonder what a green eyed dragon will look like?
Acetone and scratch pocket for bonding first.
Found 10X loupe and end grain matches perfectly on pore size/distribution and even has identical mineral deposits and rays...99% sure it's Cocobolo:)
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
- Makingtoothpicks
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Re: Celtic Dragon
Anyone have a link for the Chinese bits . I could not find them
Thank You
Don
Thank You
Don
- scottp55
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Re: Celtic Dragon
This is the latest from Sy-Tools if you're talking the tiny ones I have in a separate thread Don;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/R0-25-0-5-0-75- ... 100623.m-1
Looks like they went up a buck, BUT I was directed also to another supplier selling what looked identical for $42
(Wondering if I oughta stock up even more:(
scott
http://www.ebay.com/itm/R0-25-0-5-0-75- ... 100623.m-1
Looks like they went up a buck, BUT I was directed also to another supplier selling what looked identical for $42
(Wondering if I oughta stock up even more:(
scott
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
- scottp55
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Re: Celtic Dragon
After separating that mish-mash of gem chips, I measured the Dragon's eyes and the orb circular depression, and used the remains of the Dragon Key Fob blank of Bloodwood to make 4 each of the depressions for testing. The Bloodwood has the same rosin/oil/citrus thinner precoats as the Claro and Cocobolo Dragon blanks had.
I was in a playing mood, so besides testing the small opal dust/chips with CA(Krazy Glue max bond precision tip), I also tested 2 nail polishes, as I knew I could give it an acetone bath, and recover the gems if it was a real botch job.
(should have laid off the espresso the first day:) )
Opal chips are bottom row...far right is garnet melee that I scrounged from the sands of the lake my Gramp's camp is on when I was very early teens(amazed I still had them:)
Fingernail polish actually worked better for me, as I could take any excess off 2 hours later with a mini burnisher...it was slightly clearer as well.
On spur of the moment, I crushed a damaged/friable specimen of Chrysocolla and did CA/nail polish on the second row as well...I'm leaning towards the Chrys for the Claro Dragon large depression, and found a perfect fit Garnet for the eye. I tested CA/nail polish/ and "Shoe Goo" for a single garnet on the top row, as I've used that and "Goop" on oiled woods before with great results in the house.
Cocobolo Dragon is still undecided.
Yesterday I rubbed as hard as I could with my fingertip on all of them, and not even a single piece came off.
Today I used the rosin/oil/citrus on the sample board, left excess on for 20 minutes as usual, and then rubbed excess off vigorously with cotton cloth, and nothing came off....will wait for it to be dry tomorrow, and then vigorously stiff bristle brush it and see if the surface mars.
Oh, No acetone or denaturing of the Bloodwood or Cocobolo before gluing the oily woods, as I wanted worst case scenario first.
Long winded way of saying I'm playing with Stone AND Wood finally
scott
OOPS I stuck this on Michael's thread...oh well:)
I was in a playing mood, so besides testing the small opal dust/chips with CA(Krazy Glue max bond precision tip), I also tested 2 nail polishes, as I knew I could give it an acetone bath, and recover the gems if it was a real botch job.
(should have laid off the espresso the first day:) )
Opal chips are bottom row...far right is garnet melee that I scrounged from the sands of the lake my Gramp's camp is on when I was very early teens(amazed I still had them:)
Fingernail polish actually worked better for me, as I could take any excess off 2 hours later with a mini burnisher...it was slightly clearer as well.
On spur of the moment, I crushed a damaged/friable specimen of Chrysocolla and did CA/nail polish on the second row as well...I'm leaning towards the Chrys for the Claro Dragon large depression, and found a perfect fit Garnet for the eye. I tested CA/nail polish/ and "Shoe Goo" for a single garnet on the top row, as I've used that and "Goop" on oiled woods before with great results in the house.
Cocobolo Dragon is still undecided.
Yesterday I rubbed as hard as I could with my fingertip on all of them, and not even a single piece came off.
Today I used the rosin/oil/citrus on the sample board, left excess on for 20 minutes as usual, and then rubbed excess off vigorously with cotton cloth, and nothing came off....will wait for it to be dry tomorrow, and then vigorously stiff bristle brush it and see if the surface mars.
Oh, No acetone or denaturing of the Bloodwood or Cocobolo before gluing the oily woods, as I wanted worst case scenario first.
Long winded way of saying I'm playing with Stone AND Wood finally
scott
OOPS I stuck this on Michael's thread...oh well:)
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.
R.N.
- mezalick
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Re: Celtic Dragon
Looks great Scott...
Maybe you'll be in the Vectric Newsletter.....
As for putting this on my thread..No problems..It always good to exceptional work..
And I'm sure you've done worse things than stealing a thread...LOL
~M
Maybe you'll be in the Vectric Newsletter.....
As for putting this on my thread..No problems..It always good to exceptional work..
And I'm sure you've done worse things than stealing a thread...LOL
~M
Michael Mezalick
https://www.youtube.com/user/mezalick
mm@mezalick.com
https://www.youtube.com/user/mezalick
mm@mezalick.com