For the most part I turn the bowls "green". I find that cheery, walnut, and most fruit woods are fairly stable as they dry when turned that way. I usually rough turn leaving the sides about 3/4" thick and then a couple days later do a final turning and immediately put on the CNC for carving. The stock I have been using are from trees on my property that have died or been blown down.
The disadvantage, especially with wet walnut, is they tend to be fuzzy and require more sanding and cleaning up. Buying large pieces of wood that are already dry (air dried is preferable to kiln-dried) is fairly expensive - especially when like me you are on a learning curve and hate to burn a piece of wood you just paid $20 to $30 bucks for
Lately I have been experimenting with two techniques to maximize use of the wood. In the first one I use the same technique as used for making bandsaw boxes whereby I cut out the center of a 2" thick piece and then slip the two pieces apart and glue them back together with about an 1/4" overlap thus ending up with a 3 3/4" thick piece to work with as shown below:
The other technique is to simply glue two pieces together to get a thicker piece and design it in such a way that the glue line is hidden underneath as shown in this 2" piece of cherry on top of a 1" piece of walnut.
Be glad to answer any other questions you may have. I encourage you to make some and eventually add an indexer