dhellew2 wrote:Unless I missed it, I didn't see anything about flatsawn wood, which is the most common wood because it yields more wood and it shows off the grain
Kiln dried wood is typically between 10% and 12% moisture at the center of the board
It can take up to a year for wood to acclimate to your climate
The best method is to cut the wood into 3" strips, alternate the rings up and down but keeping the edge tapers the same direction and glue them back together
This is what I do:
Looking at the rings at the end of the board to determine the center of the tree
Make the carving on the tree center side of the board; this often helps reduce cupping
Flatsawn wood almost always cups towards the outside of the tree, the rings are wetter and less dense, therefore, shrink more
Cutting on the tree center side relieves some of the stresses, sometimes it will even cause the cupping towards the tree center
One can never be certain what will happen to wood
This carving is red oak, cut into strips, and it still cupped towards the carved side
Notice all three pieces cupped towards the carved side anyway
Again I think when carving your pieces you may have better results if you don't alternate and carve on the cupped/con-caved side of the board.
Rcnewcomb wrote:Again I think when carving your pieces you may have better results if you don't alternate and carve on the cupped/con-caved side of the board.
I would have to disagree. We found that alternating strips on the glue-up provided better long term results.
We learned that higher moisture content of the wood contributed the most to cupping problems while carving.
esteeme1 wrote:I guess I should have taken a side view of this but I didn't. I cut this after the first the picture I posted earlier. I intentionally joined it without alternating the boards and cut it on the center/middle of the growth/tree side. Even though the pic doesn't show it well it came out as flat as a board, "pun intended".
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