Conquering Fuzzies in Construction Pine

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Conquering Fuzzies in Construction Pine

Postby TReischl » Tue Mar 06, 2012 5:05 pm

Working with the Home Depot or Lowe's stuff can be challenging. Yesterday I cut a large model, about 18 inches in diameter, when it was done, FUZZIES, big nasty ones. Plus, the roughing tool had done some chip out on the bead. Grrrrr.

So this turned into an experiment.

It is pretty much an natural instinct for woodworkers to cut with the grain, sand with the grain, do everything with the grain. Even get fuzzies with the grain. I decided to go across the grain.

So I reset the angle to 90, my feedrate is 400 IPM (no typo there) and depth of cut is .06 with a .062 tapered ballnose. Same as when I was cutting with the grain. Here are some pics mid cut:

C1 (2).jpg


C1 (1).jpg


C1 (3).jpg


The tool is cutting from right to left, notice the difference in fuzzies, AMAZING.

About the pine. I typically buy 2 X 10, then rip about 3 1/2 from each edge, discard the middle piece because that is flat grained. Then due a glue up alternating the pieces. Seems to help with the warpage. My opinion anyhow.

If you are cutting pine, you might want to try going across the grain.
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Re: Conquering Fuzzies in Construction Pine

Postby TReischl » Tue Mar 06, 2012 6:19 pm

Update:

Did a little bit of sanding, about 15 minutes worth and here is what it looks like:

c2.jpg


c3.jpg


Not too bad, for construction pine.
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Re: Conquering Fuzzies in Construction Pine

Postby dhellew2 » Tue Mar 06, 2012 8:09 pm

Nice job. I too have used pine from Lowe's. The moisture consistently tests at 10% and drops to 8% here in Eastern Washington. I usually use their eight foot 2x4's ($1.76 ea) so I can plane to 1" thick.

A 3-flute spiral tapered ball nose bit helps too. Have you tried cutting at 315°?

Sanding with a mop sander will remove the fuzziness in a hurry without damage to the carving.
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Re: Conquering Fuzzies in Construction Pine

Postby TReischl » Tue Mar 06, 2012 8:31 pm

Hello Dale,

You must get much better 2x4's out there in Washington! The ones I see here are nothing but knots growing on top of knots.

If you look carefully in those pics, you will see the 3 flute tapered ballnose. Right now I am running another one with a straight flute 1/8 dia. It is cutting at 400 IPM and seems to be doing just as well. I changed the roughing on this job to across the grain with much better results.

Yup, I have tried all sorts of angles, 30, 45, 60 etc, seems that 90 is working the best so far.

I am sort of fussy about dust flying all over the place (it is bad enough in my shop as it is), so I have avoided one of those mandrel type sanders over the years. I do use an air turbine carver to do the clean up and it goes really fast.
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Re: Conquering Fuzzies in Construction Pine

Postby zeeway » Wed Mar 07, 2012 12:21 pm

Hmmm...that is very interesting. Thanks for the tip of cutting across the grain on pine. I have found that the construction 2x6's and larger are typically yellow pine in the Southeast, which is harder than the 2x4 stuff. Your 400 ipm kinda scares me, but I will sneak up on it.

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Re: Conquering Fuzzies in Construction Pine

Postby TReischl » Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:33 pm

Hello Angie,

Every now and then I have run across the SYP, when I have it seems to have been much fuzzier than the whatever the northern stuff is? Many, many years ago I worked in a place that made stadium seating, they bought what they called Southern Yellow Pine from Arkansas, it was so hard that a nail could not be driven in it, had to be predrilled.

About the 400 IPM, my machine is a homebuilt, based on 8020, sits on a wooden frame. So it is nothing really special. It does pay to sneak up on it, if for no other reason than it is downright intimidating at first.
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Re: Conquering Fuzzies in Construction Pine

Postby Joe Crumley » Wed Mar 07, 2012 2:52 pm

Congratulations Guys

I thought I was the only guy around who's using pine from Lowe's. Over here, in Okla., the only variety we have is Yellow Pine. I've been ripping the centers out from 2"X12" leaving the vertical grain. This stuff is hard and heavy. I have signs outdoors four years without a single failure. So it's one of my favorite materials. One of my concerns was durability and resistance to "Dry Rot". I'm using Borax as a preservative. So far it's looking good.

Image

I've not 3D carved this materials so I'm going to school on your infomatio.

Thanks for posting.

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Re: Conquering Fuzzies in Construction Pine

Postby TReischl » Wed Mar 07, 2012 5:35 pm

Hello Joe!

Don't know how much "schooling" you will get in this thread, since this is all a big experiment anyhow. I just got plain tired of fighting the fuzzies or buying expensive lumber.

I went ahead and continued working with the sample even though it had some chipouts on it. One thing I did not like was that the model was a bit "murky". Nothing to do with Aspire or the tool I used to cut it, just the model. So I used the PowerCrafter (an air turbine, much like a dentists drill) to touch it up. Been awhile since I did this sort of thing, so I am not as light handed as I used to be. But it worked out ok. If you compare earlier pics of this model to these, you will notice that the carving is much crisper.

c5.jpg


c6.jpg


You can see in the second pic up in the tail feathers where my "hand" was not as smooth as it should have been.

But from a normal viewing distance, this actually looks really good. Painted, it will be really nice.

Joe, about rotting. I think what most people think is a bunch of rot! As long as pine is not in contact with the ground and can shed water well, it does not start rotting the minute it is put outside. If it did, up here in the Northeast, there would not be houses that are 300 years old still standing, cause they sure as heck did not pressure treat lumber in the 1700's. PT lumber is just way overused.
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Re: Conquering Fuzzies in Construction Pine

Postby dhellew2 » Wed Mar 07, 2012 6:45 pm

The wood I get at Lowes is from Hampton Lumber, I think from Idaho. When the knots are not useable or wood is cracked I cut it into strips and glue them to make wider boards. Takes extra work, and lots of glue they are ready when I need them. This method also works for cheap-cull lumber which often yields some of the prettiest wood.
lumber.jpg
lumber 3.jpg
lumber 2.jpg
P1010613.JPG
Serving trays 2.jpg
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Re: Conquering Fuzzies in Construction Pine

Postby Joe Crumley » Thu Mar 08, 2012 4:39 pm

Excellent.

I can't remember a 3D CNC file that couldn't be enhanced with a little hard work. At least I always use my chisels to clean up under cuts and well as sharpen the corners.

Your bird is down right beautiful.

For the past two years I've continued with vertical grain pine. My YP signs aren't showing any signs of weather at all. This was my first YP tests and I visit often expecting a check or crack. So far so good.

Boy, I'm glad you posted your rooster.

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Re: Conquering Fuzzies in Construction Pine

Postby dhellew2 » Wed Mar 14, 2012 9:24 pm

rooster.jpg

Here is the rest of the rooster. Dale
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Re: Conquering Fuzzies in Construction Pine

Postby TReischl » Wed Mar 14, 2012 10:37 pm

I like that one better Dale! :D
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Re: Conquering Fuzzies in Construction Pine

Postby staft » Thu Mar 15, 2012 3:43 am

My question is what do you use for glue on those outdoor pine signs? I been wanting to make some for myself and don't want the work to be falling apart in a few years.

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Re: Conquering Fuzzies in Construction Pine

Postby TReischl » Thu Mar 15, 2012 1:17 pm

I do not know what he uses, but there are several glues available.

Franklin makes a true waterproof glue. You can also use some construction adhesives, but those come in the tubes that make them a bit of a pain. There are also polyurethanes and epoxies used by boat builders.

Myself, I use the Franklin stuff and have never had a problem. I use it on outdoor furniture which has a lot more stress on it than a sign.
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Re: Conquering Fuzzies in Construction Pine

Postby Joe Crumley » Thu Mar 15, 2012 1:50 pm

I've tested, tested, tested and done some more testing and found two exceptional adhesives. Epoxy and Weldwoods Plastic Resin Glue. I like Weldwood the best. It's available at most lumber supply's. This is a dry powder that can be mixed to a pancake batter thickness. That way it is gap filling. Sets up overnight and will never give up. Cheap too. Keep the lid on or it will go bad.

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