Preventing warping / bowing

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zaaephod
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Preventing warping / bowing

Post by zaaephod »

Good morning :)


I have a project I just cut.. I don't have a picture of it atm, but it's a rather deep 3d cut; 14mm into a 20mm thick piece of select pine. The cut turned out perfect, but after I took it out of the machine and it sat for a couple hours, it began to 'cup' really badly. I sprayed it with some water, and put some weight on it overnight, but this morning it has a crack in the outer frame area.

Is there something I can do to prevent this in the future? Should I leave it clamped to a flat object for a while after it's cut?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Z

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Rcnewcomb
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Re: Preventing warping / bowing

Post by Rcnewcomb »

Wood will cup when you remove a large amount from one side. So do many other materials.

One thing to help is to glue and clamp it to a backer board either before machining or immediately after removing it from the machine.
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harryball
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Re: Preventing warping / bowing

Post by harryball »

What you do will depend on the material. I've found skinning the back of composite material like MDF will help opening the back to the same moisture. Making sure the moisture content of the wood is below 15% helps too. The wetter the wood, the more it will warp. Placing your work so air can get under it can help too, keep the drying even. Letting the wood acclimate to your shop will help, get the temperature even and allow the moisture to stabilize. I try to keep wood around in the shop at least a week if not more before using it.

/RB
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JDJones
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Re: Preventing warping / bowing

Post by JDJones »

You may want to look at this post

http://www.vectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3982

it has some info on cupping
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cabnet636
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Re: Preventing warping / bowing

Post by cabnet636 »

a rule of thumb on exposed non kiln dried woods, say you were to cut down aunt hatties cherry tree and want to make her a special item, the first thing we would need is for here to live a little longer!

if you were to cut the tree and slice into 1" thick slabs, then sticker it with 1" slats to allow air to move around the pieces. the theory is it takes one year to dry a 1" thick board. it can be also done in a low dry heat situation

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_drying

http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Wo ... d_kiln.htm

http://www.woodisfun.com/microwavedrying.html

http://extension.missouri.edu/explore/a ... g05550.htm

the university of missouri has some good info for us home spun types, as will your local agricultural university's

jim
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HoustonFirefox
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Re: Preventing warping / bowing

Post by HoustonFirefox »

zaaephod

:D I agree with everything said above.

As a furniture maker (as are many others here), properly drying the wood is of paramount importance to how the finished piece will come out.

Some years ago, I built a coffee table with glass inlays. The glass inlays had a 1/16" gap all around the edges and it looks great after 11 years in service. I had a friend that took my plans and built his own copy shortly thereafter. Within a month his exact copy of the table was falling apart at the seams. The reason? Wood shrinkage.

On my table, I made certain the wood was acclimated to the final environment where it be used (indoors, low humidity). He built his from box-store lumber that he never let acclimate and hence, the final result. His table was contracting (still drying) and binding around the glass inlays. Since the glass wouldn't shrink, something had to give (the wood split).

You project warped because the milled side was opened up and exposing a far greater surface area to allow moisture to escape. The back side (unmilled) had far less area and as such, did not shrink as quickly. This resulted in the "bow" or warp.

Trying to force-flatten such a piece usually ends in disaster (it will split on the milled side) since, in effect, you are attempting to "pull apart" the wood fibers on the milled side and compress the fibers on the unmilled side.

Usually there is little you can do to correct this. My suggestion (other than letting the wood dry properly to start with) is to let the finished piece gradually dry. Eventually the unmilled side should match the milled side in moisture content. This will lessen, but not prevent, the warp.

If you absolutely MUST mill a board for a "hurry-up" project before it has a chance to properly dry, run both sides through a planer (or drum sander) to open up the pores, do your milling, sand and IMMEDIATELY put a wood sealer, polyurethane or some other sealing finish on it. This will cause both sides to gradually release moisture at the same rate. It may still warp or bow, but not nearly as bad as "raw" wood.

Just my .02 cents, hope it helps :)

HFF
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GripUs
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Re: Preventing warping / bowing

Post by GripUs »

HFF,
Thank you for an excellent tutorial! It is bound to help a lot of us.


Jim,
It is funny (to me, at least) that you used "Aunt Hattie" in your example. We have an establishment here is San Angelo Miss Hatties with a most interesting history.

Regards,

Joe
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gravirozo
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Re: Preventing warping / bowing

Post by gravirozo »

hi...

i work with wood long time... for interior the best is around 8 percent of humidity... the 20 percent already you feel dry.. only with humiditymeter can find out the real volume of moisture... it's a little gage...

with wood you can't rush... in your next projext, if you remove over 20 percent of thickness use thicker mat by a 20-30 percent at least, rough it out and leave it for a few couple of day in a room, close climate as it will be finally... even a wood dried artifically, in dryer, 20 percent or more of removal change the wood "stability" the stress what is present in ALL wood will works, and never stop... ie woods are not plastic nor even metall:-)

some help to put in water, and boil it 24-36 hour.... but it is tedeious and require experience...
the thonet company find it out, to bend their furniture part... but this tech really relieve the stress around 80-90 percent

your another chance glue together two layer made the core or rightside outside, used similar grain, or use the board selected of the middle of log, where's the grain ""straight"" to the surface... that will srink, but warping just minimal...

to "stop" working a wood, only way to layering crossing the grain in each layer, and use uneven layer... the glue should be some formaldehyd based... like manufacturers use for plywoods...

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